rhapsodyred99

Maybe it’s supposed to be the e-11b. https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/E-11b_blaster_rifle

Locitus helped me thanks!

Yes that's the inferno back pla5e. Also keep in mind the belt rectangles are not just rectangles. They have details like the shore troopers belts on top. Really a rotk belt is just a hardmounted shoretrooper belt.

If it's going through a revamp this bits probably not an emergency <br><br> Just was pointed out a long time ago...

I see the crl still hasn't been changed, as more folks are building shouldn't it be changed to reflect the numerous references available now that show that inside seam?

this is amazing! Wish Id had this detail when working on my sandy! Thanks you so much!

Hi james weve talked privately but ive found you here so ill say again what i said there. Modifying the Tk for my Garrison would be no issue. I can sit in my kit and I know others can as well. some sit more comfortably than others. in my Garrison we would handle it like this: Id want you to have the full suit for pictures to show you had it (butt plate and TD) we could work with you to see how best to take those pictures, however at troops we would be perfectly Ok with you leaving the butt plate off and the TD. You would be sitting no one would see those. speaking from my own viewpoint, I can sit in mine, but its a bit like a very pregnant lady does, so not Ideal. What I would need to do for my suit to sit comfortably is abandon the original strapping method (which isnt required anyway). Once i did that my cod and ab and kidney could then go up under my chest when i was sitting. basically do not attach the cod ab and kidney to the chest and back at all so it would almost telescope in and out. id need to trim the top of the thighs to a point they could comfortably bend at a right angle. again this is no big deal you would trim them a little bigger than you needed them at the top then use a heat gun or heat iron tofold down the edge to make a return edge (we have had to do this for some of our very short troopers). the back of the thighs and calves where they bend would also need to be trimmed in an arc to allow the better bending of the legs. Mine are like this anyway as its perfectly allowed and even seen many times in the movie as the stunt guys did this to be able to actually move. If those mods were made you could sit comfortably (probably may need more adjustment as you try it out) and would need some help to get dressed (we all need a little usually) but a helper could get the legs on easy then the torso would go just go on while in the chair then the chest and back would go on like a shirt over your head, then slide the arms up. It woudl take a little work, and you may need a little help, but I don't see the chair as a problem with approval or wearing a tk. If at all possible if your local guys had someone close to you and close to your size you could arrange a meet and greet and they could test fit bits on and get a feel for just what would need to be modified. My garrison has made a 6 foot 8 tk and a 4 foor 8 tk and large and skinny and everything in between. If you have anon tk standard body type its more work, but its doable, and if the only hurdle is you have to sit down, well the CRL never said that a TK has to stand around. Hope this helps. Id say grab a suit, start a build thread and seek advise here as you go. honestly very minor modifications would be needed.

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We have multiple people making Shore troopers. Shore troopers have the same handguards, forearms, biceps and bells of a TK They have the same ab as the tk, with an extra greeblie and missing ab buttons but still 98% of the work is done. They have the same shins and sniper knee as the Tk with shinguards added yes, but the base shin is the same. again 98% of the work done. They use same ribbed undersuit as the shore trooper. They use the same black FO style gloves as the death and shore trooper. They use the same FO TK white boots. what we would still need to see from a maker: Thighs. We have some deathtrooper makers which have esentially the same thighs with added details that could be left out for the TK Thigh ammo belt Cod Butt Belt TD Chest Back Shoulder straps Helmet So work to be done yes, but a shore trooper maker would already be halfway there. I hope that someone goes in that direction as I have zero ability to do that. I can build the heck out of some kits, and possibly modify or fabricate small parts, but not make a whole chest back etc. Ive actually thought of getting one of the more stylized ANH kits for those parts and trying to mod them but i fear its beyond my ability. vac forming would not be a hardship after all the FOTK from anovos was and is vacformed and while some of the details are softer there were ways around that (resin additions etc)

True but t shares arms shins and an ab plate with a shore trooper. Deathtrooper have mostly the same thighs. So basically just need a belt back belt cod butt and lid...

I know we have multiple death trooper and shore trooper makers out tgere, but I have yet to see anyone working on a set of ro tk armor or even a helmet.<br><br> I know both the shore and death troopers use some tk parts (arms etc) so there is a start, but is anyone crafting the TK yet?

I recently purchased a Heston 3d F11-d, with the custom order of having him create both and end cap and a stock for me but not attach them. this is how it arrived: I have Dan's metal holster so it was simple to thread the right size Security Torx Screws (these are left over flat ones, i am going to get the correct button head ones at some point) into the blaster and have it fit: The first true modification came when deciding how to make the stock removable and allow for the cap to be placed. I wanted the stock to be secure enough not to pop off in use. I utilized an existing hole in the caps to allow a treaded allen bolt (one thats just a threaded part) to go into it. I reinfoced the cap in that area with extra thick ca glue. the bolt isnt actually supporting anything, only keeping the caps for spinning or falling off. the bolt then threads into the main gun body that i reinforced at that section with epoxy. the caps are not going anywhere unless someone tries to yank them off. I then added a threaded insert nut to the back of the main body that would allow me to attach the stock, epoxy reinforced: Next I added a threaded rod deep into the stock, and you guessed it, reinforced with epoxy: http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u253/rhapsodyred99/F11-d/12873410_953894098022067_1459911065_o_zpso9oqgrnt.jpg Now I had the convertable stock, but still needed lights. This blaster was not designed with lights in mind, so i needed small self contained lights that i could place into the front the mag and the counter. I went with balloon lights: you can get large packs for very cheap on amazon in both red and white. They twist on. They last about 8 hours. The front tac light was easy, simply drill the right hole and insert the light. add the silver flange to the front and you can twist it on and off. The Mag was fairly easy as well as after I popped off the white cap it was hollow inside. I dremelled out the pill holes, glued some opaque plastic behind them (i tried smoked plastic but it was too dark) and dropped the ballon light inside. the white end cap fits very tight, but I hold it on with elastic glued to the inside. I also had to put some reflective tape on the inside of the cap so the light would not shine through. The counter was the hard Part. it was solid so after dremelling out the pill holes I chose to drill the bottom of the counter large enough to insert the ball0on light, then cap it with a piece of black gaffers tape. its not noticeable as the design of the gun itself hides most of it and also the fact its on the bottom. down side of this is while you can turn off and on the tac light you cant turn off and on the mag and counter easily. This didnt bother me since I would just trun them on like my vader belt or chestbox at the start of the troop and leave them on till the end anyway. this was the quickest and easiest solution for me, im sure others could wire leds and switches. anyway end up with this: I am happy with the results. The blaster itself comes in a very crisp print, and the lights really add to it.

Really happy this armor is continuing to be perfected now that many more images are available etc.<br><br><br> An evolving product with a maker willing to make improvements as details emerge is what makes this hobby great.<br><br><br><br> To be fair the Anovos Facebook existed because we all signed an nda and Anovos allowed the private Facebook chat for us to share information and builds with other folks who had signed the nda. <br><br><br> The Facebook group still exists but even though the nda hasn't been officially lifted more and more of us are trying to share details here where everyone can benefit, and there is discussion to open the Anovos Facebook group to all fo tk folks.<br><br><br> It wasn't about elitism, it was the only real way we could help each other at the time.<br><br><br> I doubt Jim has you signing an nda and since it's more or less armor for all, I agree that it would be better to have it here than on a private fb page.<br><br><br> White armor has long been the go to place for all things tk, I hate to see Facebook ruin that. Just my 2 cents.<br><br><br> Oh and edit that stress test is insane. If you can keep the paint on it that's got to help prevent yoke cracks!

Worth the wait guys. This thing is amazing!

You can try to reach them here:<br><br> Info@wigarrison.com