riveting

Wonderful gesture Marc more exciting times ahead & cool looking cat.

I duno, but those are some seriously rusty critters right there. wow! yip I'm with Brien on that, stainless is the way to go for sure on those.

I think Paul used to call it his superflex or similar & yes it was sooooo flexy, I just figured it might help Kian out with the requirements on comfort? good luck Kian, maybe an alternative & very comfortable Trooper could be an option? like biker scout! those guys are lucky enough to sit down heaps & still look very cool.

Considering what PB did , you guys did a fantastic job (well done for all your hard work and behind the scenes effort) . I remember it felt somehow easier to navigate parts of the site all those years ago, it felt simpler / slicker, would be terrific to get back to that. Sorry to derail your keen observation of a thread Dale.

Nice blaster & the invisible wall mounting is very cool

Ditto on that, Its my method too, and hats off to those who maintain this forum, I found pics on this site just this very week, that I thought I lost years ago using this very technique

This is a fantastic idea I wondered did this ever happen? please point me in the direction if it did I've been looking for a while on the forum but maybe not in the right places, there so many options nowadays on lids and kit, the tree was a good quick "go too" place.

A lot of guys like the nomex flight gloves? quick google search: https://skysupplyusa.com/nomex-flight-gloves-black/ I suppose its a matter of personal preference and finding something your comfortable in and more importantly happy with, hope this helps?

Hi Bryan, To back pedal a little, I went through your thread again with a keener eye and if you wanted to get a little closer to screen accuracy? there's a couple of things I'd recommended tweaking, a quick one would be the bells. I believe it would increase "the look" & would fit a little better? hope this helps?

well done trooper

Hey Tristan, Hmmnn a sticky problem, If it was me, I would wait for the paint to fully cure and once this has happened, very carefully using a Q tip with warm water (diluted a little liquid soap) slowly rub between the lines and around them, slowly soften the glue and erase the adhesive that way. Hope fully someone on here might have first hand experience and be more help? good luck

How else would you recommend connecting with WTF aka Walt? pm me if required

Welcome aboard Kian, I'm not too familiar with the FOTK but found the TM TK I had, fairly forgiving and my absolute Fav when it comes to chores liker sitting and adapting to my physique. boing! but as Jonatan rightly points out, not all amour is the same

your welcome Mario, I'm glad you found it an interesting read too and thankyou Daniel for adding footage to the written blog , would have been nice for a bit more footage of the actual kit. Did anyone else catch the auction estimate? maybe TE was spot on back then with some info? and is it me or is there a missing punctuation mark where it reads "blue plastic eye pieces", in the catalogue?

Sweet, as long as there not glued to their counter parts, but figure that is still canon, although probably panful.

This may be old news? I looked but couldn't find anything via the search option. if so feel free to delete but it was new to me, so I thought I'd share it in the event anyone else interested in original kit had missed it? https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/museum-life/a-new-hope-reassembling-a-stormtrooper-costume

nicely coming together

Hey Antonio, Looks like you have a few methods to choose from and there's probably a few more deeper into the HX of the forum, I wondered if you considered trying all the recommendation's / suggestions and then do a comparative post of what in your OP was the outcome from your findings? just a thought & looking forward to your update.

As many reference pictures of the OT kit as you can find and sort them into parts, display the specific ones on a wall etc, of the item your working on. more time and more patience from myself, slowly slowly catchy monkey, Good luck, you'll have a blast

Ok You have to be careful with moving forward on oil / enamel based paints, sometime even using as mechanical approach (sanding) can push the paint deeper into the plastic before it starts to lift it out! From experience Oils can used to lift stains made by other oil based products. Have you tried a very thin oil like wd40 or baby oil? (letting it sit a while and lightly buffing with a soft cloth?) you can then go back to the soap and water to clean the fresh oil off. please note I am not an expert in paint and plastics but these methods have work for me in the past, A small test patch is always recommended before anything else. Also try stay away from any thinners as although they will lift the paint it may melt your plastic in the process! theres probably many more threads deeper into the forum that also have good ideas. Good luck

Hi Antonio, Do you know the type of paint it is? that can make all the difference too.

nice work, a fellow cinematographer

I'm just curios & pay me no never mind, Could you finish the kit to a good standard? as you appear to be approaching that level of finish, then on sell the kit as a "pre made Armour" & in between return to the deskside with Dave, and make a kit as close to perfect for you? just a thought. As Kyle acknowledges Dave's a busy guy, maybe for good reason. Either way your building on valuable experience in assembling these good luck

To add to the sage advice from Glen. shoulders should de-attach with pops Biceps should slide out of the retaining elastic on the shoulder bells Hope this helps and it turns out its just a quick fix

Hi all, A quick q: is there anyone from our American based contingent on the forum that know any more background on this item pictured and its history?, I was just wanting to clarify... is the kit a copy?, as the good gentleman in frame indicates the kit in this museum are all screen used pieces. the segment starts with "its all the real stuff, its all studio stuff!" the ANH tk is about the 10 minute mark