LittleOne

got some pics on facebook...first test pull..pretty cool stuff...now awaiting rest of this story

looking for wire for the brackets? try this music wire

do you have a visual example of what you mean Paul, In north america what you are describing might be hard to find because we dont use the same systems for tagging hardwares....well i think....

would the bolts to tie down the ears on the helmets do?

for me... and i may be wrong.... no return edge at all on the forearms for the regular stormtroopers. I have scanned the movie in several places and i see no return edges on the forearm parts, not on top not at the bottom for both hero and stunt versions,,however, the biceps and shoulder bells have different degrees of return edges. the sandtrooper do have return edges on the top portion ( elbow region )of the forearm...look at ANH when the falcon leaves mos eisley's and you will see the return edges when the stormtrooper turns around and on the others. but the best bet is to scan the movie for accuracy.... my 2 cents

All the best to you Rolf in your future builds, I have received my ATA suit and making a TK suit following your assembly example. cheers!

I know that Rob,it says in the post "1980's Chelsea boots" so they can't clearly match. What i meant to say ( to clarify) is that this "might" be a manufacturer that made Chelsea boots in the 1970's also thus maybe made the boot for the movie. If that company by such name ever existed to begin with,so far that name did not turn up anything for me...

i found this... another shot at it.... vintage 1980's Chelsea boots a lot of similarities with what Paul has posted someplace else...ok the elastic is not the same exact way...but the sole is almost identical as to what Paul posted and elastic is same pattern and sowing is almost the same style too... anyways... manufacturer... regency UK so it could make sense...

mmmmm, wonder if simon still has the boots that came with his costume... maybe he would tell us if he still has them....who knows... does he have them Paul?

well if you used a wire bending jig and had set it up to bend your wires then they would be the same size and shape... but if you do them by hand with pliers then they will vary in width...i guess it is safe to say that they have to be the width of the elastic you are gonna use and just give a slight play on both sides but not much.... Rolf had a suit and he showed what he did with the ANH bracket system.. perfect example there and this how i will make mine too... plus the bolts seem to be the same as the ones used on the ears to tie them down on the helmets......this ill have to test on mine armor... Rolf's wires inside his armor just keep scrolling down the page and you will see his set up... peace

good idea, no oxidation, might be a little bit hard to bend though...might try that...

here you go, best guesstimate... from a sales thread... original link not sure if seller makes them anymore though... that is what ill use on my suit when i am at that part.. measurements in wire size, roughly 1 MM (= or -)...assuming they are wire coat hanger size... but the measurements can be off so you have to build a few i guess.. nuff said....

yes i suppose super glue does the trick,,,but super glue is glue and probably a pain to apply and cannot be rubbed off or hard to clean if you change your mind while liquid mask you can paint it into any shape or form and looks decent when dried but then again what do i know... it was a fluke result for me... cheers!

Hi all, many of us want to reproduce current helmets like on star wars helmets.com and screen accurate paint drips is harder than it looks. i have something that happened to me while making my HIPS kit from ATA...what i am gonna explain would only work for hips and not ABS. at some point in my build i had to mask some small parts to create chips on my helmet. I use vallejo liquid mask and mask here and there in forms of tinny chips then painted my helmet then removed the mask after painting was dried out. But as some point i did some other masking on my helmet and weather got against me. in the meantime the liquid mask was drying and drying and i was not paying attention, usually the liquid mask would come to dry and remain as some sort of rubbery substance that you can easily remove. however before i had the chance to go out and paint the liquid mask dried up longer than normal...i went outside and painted several coats and i let it dry out. the next time i got my helmet i started to try to remove the liquid mask but found out that it had become so hard that it was near impossible to remove by just rubbing it off and fearing the worst i let them there to simulate paint runs and not paint chips, which was not my intent originally...the paint runs are not super apparent but up close it shows somewhat if you inspect it. therefore i can say that if you wanted to create specific paint runs i believe you could... all you have to do is get some liquid mask and paint it in the shape you want on your helmet. but there are 2 things you have to do... you have to make sure that if you lay your shape up with the liquid mask it need to be thick enough that is would show up after several coats of paints on your helmet. also you would need to let the liquid rubber crystallize or almost get crystallized before painting...because the liquid mask is liquid to begin with ( of course) then it rubberized then it hardens and crystallizes...when that state is almost achieve you just paint carefully over and you will get the shape that you need one the paint is dried up. i have only built one helmet so far and i cannot say that this a 100% guaranteed technique but it happened to me by accident and i was happy with the results of the accident. so if you got some spare plastic from a hips kit and some rubber liquid mask and some krylon paint... maybe you could try this out... i am just throwing this out for the benefit of everyone... no guarantees of results but worth a test....

also found this My link