Troopacoola

Following on from that, the front ABS post was inserted through the handle, leaf spring and clip. With the stock pretty much done it will be fitted later in the build. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

There is a tiny clip which fits inside the front hinge of the arm. This is what forces the internal post to move backwards in the real stock to unclip the stock from the main body. Although this is not required to function. However, it is still a big detail of the front of the blaster. I have dry fitted it without the handle so you can see the set-up. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I dry fitted the leaf spring inside the handle. The rear of the arm was then fitted into the wishbone using some ABS tubing. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

First off was to drill out the rear of the wishbone to accommodate small dowels which will be glued in place during the final installation. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Ok, moving on to the stock. Although the stock can be functional. In this example I am building this to remain static. Once again, the excess material has been removed. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Once cured the front assembly could then be installed using C/A glue. Simples! You could also tint the lenses by using Uhu glue to stick a small piece of acetate to thew inside. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

It was then time to add the rear lens and ring to the main body. Once again using Uhu meant that the lens would not "fog up" as it would usually do if using C/A (Super) glue. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

The front internal lens assembly was then fitted and stuck in place using........Yes, you guessed it......Uhu! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Next up was to mount the front lens to the lens mounting cap which will sit inside the front scope assembly. Using a dab of Uhu around the outside of the lens. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

So, let's start with the scope. I removed any excess resin which was a result of the casting process. I also drilled out the resin bolts and replace them with the metal ones. ] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Me again! I have separated all the components into bags to save searching for specific parts when making up each individual assembly. (attach x1 pic of bagged up kit and x1 unbagged) Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Hello! Being inspired by Brian's amazing thread I thought I would begin a thread on building my relatively new ANH JMC-E11 Let's begin erm.....At the beginning! I fell into creating my own blaster by accident TBH. At the time, I was trooping with my trusty Doopy blaster. But, with age getting the better of me I found that towards the end of a long day's troop I was getting more and more pain in my elbow from carrying the resin E-11. It was then I decided I needed a lighter option. I bought my first (and only) 3D printed E-11 kit. Soon enough I realised why I had avoided working with 3D prints. The sanding ( along with the detail affected by the print layers ) were just so much work. Comparing the print to my Doopy blaster made me realise just how "off" some of the printed parts were. I decided I could do a better job building one from scratch using the excellent templates available out there. A friend of mine makes the receiver tubes from aluminium so I could reduce most of the weight with just this single part. I also decided that I would like my blaster to be able to comfortably accommodate electronics without the need to grind out solid resin parts. This meant that I would need to make hollow resin casts which in turn would reduce weight and leave as much space internally as possible. As time went by, I sourced a few original parts which I could not scratch build. Things such as the Sterling Grip, the counter, and scope. I also wanted to add a more detailed stock, so I got purchased one of those too and took it apart to cast. It then got to the point where I wanted 100% accuracy. I was lucky enough to come across an original sterling which was to form the backbone of my new blaster. Which meant I could ditch my scratch-built parts such as mag, mag housing, trigger housing etc, etc, etc. Making casts from an original is not for the faint hearted let me tell you! Saying that, I was soon to get my hands on a second L2A3 which is solely for display purposes! Well, there is a little history to the ANH JMC E-11. Now, let's move on to the kit itself. The entire blaster is made up of 75 individual parts which consist of aluminium and resin hollow casts. It has replacement screws, nuts, bolts and springs which will replace the resin ones. Wires, cord and Spring have also been sourced, along with the scope lenses and material to make the counter lens. You can see in the pics below a full listing of the parts which go into making the JMC E-11. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yeah, people think the resin stock would be super fragile. But, they are stronger than you think. I always say whith my kits that they are cast so as they are functional but they're cast in this way for a more accurate detail rather than to be used all of the time. They are a nice part of the replica to be able to play with though. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Lovely work Brian! As always! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Not sure with the remote system mate. I have an older Tramp, which is amazing BTW. Drop paul a pm with any questions[emoji106] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

If you do select to have chatter on you will not get the static bursts when you speak. Easy fix is to disable chatter and have a loop running via a cheap mp3 player plugged into the aux socket on the amp running the chatter. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I don't use a remote. Just the basic Tramp unit Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Go for the standard unit. Pop it in the chest plate. Try not to overthink stuff. It will not fit in the led, but no one will know where the sound is coming from. You will be glad you did! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Very nice work Daniel! Love it! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yes, Dan. I am taking orders via FB now. Lead times are around 2 to 3 weeks from ordering[emoji846] Marc Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

https://www.facebook.com/291078201370590/posts/291104248034652/ Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Very nice! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yeah, the JMC is aroung 650g so considerably lighter meaning no tennis elbow on those long troops! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Cracking Job Dan! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yes, I am also waiting on cord for the rear of the cylinders to arrive. Everything will be included with kit 2, with the exception of the counter reels. However, at a push I can also supply these, but they would require decals for the numbers as they will be blank. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk