Troopacoola

Ive I've been working on my padding as well today. What a nightmare getting it right. I think I may have to tweek it but I'm going to hold off until i do the chin strap Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

On the last leg of the lid build now. Ive installed the mic and padding ( along with a custom cog ) so all that's left to do is trim down the bolts and fit the chin strap. Im quite happy with how its come out and how the interior looks. Just waiting for the wireless transmittter to turn up now. For those interested, here is a pic of the computer nuts I used to mount the lenses along with how I did it Along with the modelling clay. Its a really simple job, but hard to put into words. I will try my best to explain ! 1. I removed the face plate as this gave me more room to work, but I guess it can still be done without doing this. 2. I mounted the nuts (with the bolts already screwed into them to avoid any putty getting into the nuts) into a small amount of modelling putty and rolled them into small cylinders. 3. Once dry I removed the screws from the nuts and marked out where the were going to go in the lid, test fit them and then sanded down the bottoms until the lay flush with the eyes. 4. Once dry, then it was time to install. I mounted the sockets by using ca glue and then addad more clay to stick the socket to the lid and improve the look. 5. I then offered up each lense and marked the position of the top outside post. I then punched the hole for the first screw, fitted the lense and then tightened it up when I was happy of its position. Doing this secured the lense whilst I marked the other holes. 6. I then removed the lenses, painted the new mounts white. Once dry I took off the protective film and installed the lenses again. Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Cooling system installed today. Running off a USB powerbank

I used white spirit when dealing with any paint I wanted to remove. I found that even for a small area that I worked on needed lots of Q-tips. I used one dipped in spirit to loosen the paint, and then several dry ones to remove it, as once the paint was lifted onto the Q-tip, I needed a new otherwise that would just smear the paint from the tip across the plastic. This method didn't leave any strands. It also worked for removing the humbrol paint that had dried. This worked for me, but I think others will have their own method. [emoji3] Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

I used white spirit when dealing with any paint I wanted to remove. I found that even for a small area that I worked on needed lots of Q-tips. I used one dipped in spirit to loosen the paint, and then several dry ones to remove it, as once the paint was lifted onto the Q-tip, I needed a new otherwise that would just smear the paint from the tip across the plastic. This method didn't leave any strands. It also worked for removing the humbrol paint that had dried. This worked for me, but I think others will have their own method. [emoji3] Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Heres a shot of the area I had to repair. This was not a scuff it was a clean hole I haf drilled as I had fitted the ears on backwards! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

I had the same kind of issue near one of my ears and was really anxious about making, and then using abs paste. But, I knew I had to give it a go. Once I applied it I knew there was no going back. I left the paste to set for a day or so, sanded down and then buffed it up using a nail polishing block. I am so pleased with the result. You cannot see the repair. Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Could you pop a picture of the area up?

I was dreading doing the tube stripes in case I had bleed. I didn't realise how easy it would be to clean the paint up that had bled out. I don't know why I was so worried!

Here's how I've done mine. I used modeling putty to mount some long 5mm nuts ( don't know the technical name for them!) And then painted the putty. I then drilled out the lenses and screwed them in

Thanks Art.The lenses were pre cut when I recieved my armour, so it was the only real option I had. I didn't want to Velcro or glue them in, so installed some long nuts (can't remember the proper name for them!) into some modelling putty then just screwed them in after piercing the lenses.

Helmet pretty much done. Not sure if I'm happy with the black lines though.

Looking good mate! How's the volume now?

Hello. It does look like FX, which means the helmet will need swapping out. It can still get cleared. I had an FX kit which I ended up handing down to my son here's my FX rebuild thread. There are lots of people who will help you out so post any questions in your WIP. Good luck! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/35382-Shhhh-a-quiet-fx-rebuild

Very useful indeed! Thank you!

They look fine mate. If it's only been done in the last few days with e6000 then you should be able to pick at it and peel it off.

Deffo order the magnets, you can work on the snap plates for the torso etc until they arrive [emoji3]

I got my magnets from eBay (rate earth ). I bought a mix of 25mm and 20mm in width, I bought around 12 of each. Do you have clamps? As many clamps as you can buy will also help which you can get from any diy store [emoji3]

Looking forward to the build! #following

Thank you kind sir! [emoji2]

They look ok mate. If you're using e6000 it should just peel off

Am going to give it a go. The only issue being that the meds I'm on are giving me the shakes and I'm rattling like an old washing machine on full spin! So just painting the rest was a frustrating challenge seeing as paintings my strong point. I may opt for the old sharpie if it doesn't work out.

Second coat done. Just need to tidy the black outline and apply lines. Still work to do on the left of the frown. I just can't get it right! Then onto the blue tube stripes.

Just give the area you need to glue on a rough sand. A magic sponge works well too!

Just spend £20 on an aker. You will be surprised how good it sounds. Don't need a static burst!