Troopacoola

I'd remove the belt if possible as I'm pretty certain that the middle box should be inline with the cover strip. Doing this may expose one of the drilled holes, but I wouldnt worry about that as a little abs paste can sort that out, I drilled a hole through my lid, had to use abs paste for the first time to fill the hole. A little filing with a nail polishing block and you cant tell it was there. Doing this would allow you to either sand more off the centre seams, or bring the belt up and cover strip down to mask the gap. Others may have their advice, but thats what I'd do.  Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Forgot to mention putting an internal cover strip in if you've not already done so, for additional support. [emoji3]

Id give it another go with the 6000 as if you use another glue, you may not be able to get it apart if you need to redo it. If you've not already done so ensure you rough up with some sand paper the areas you will be glueing. Where did you get your 6000 from as I know there are some fake ones online. Dont worry we will sort it! Worst case scenario would mean a hot water bath in order to shape the required part.

Just heard the news about Kenny Baker. Rest in peace R2 [emoji22]

So its slowly pulled apart since removing the clamps?how well did it fit together? I mean did it marry up easily enough or did it require some tension to line tha side up? First up, if your happy with the other side, I'd redo the side thats pulling away, and see if that remedies it. Marc Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Ok, so revisited the lid to fit a chin strap and cut down those deadly ear bolts. I wanted to do something about the exposed cut down bolts. I went sifting through by "bits and bobs" box when I came across these. They are small rubber caps which cover those small metal pegs which hold the shelves up on a bookcase. They fit perfectly over the trimmed down bolts. I painted them black and applied a little E6000 to the nut and bolt for security and then fitted them. A simple job which hides those ugly bolts.

Hahaha! I know exactly what you mean!Each part I'm working on I try and find a thread and re-read the bit I'm working on. A mishap or error can be an expensive one [emoji15] Marc

Or download tapatalk, which allows you to post pictures direct from your pone or tablet [emoji3] Marc Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Have a look at Tony's walk through mate. Its ANH, butit is an AM1.0 Build so should help for reference [emoji2] http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/31920-ukswrath's-AM-1.0,-ATA-bucket-build Marc

Try a couple of blobs of superglue. If that doesnt work, and the mic mesh is beyond repair, then you may want to start from scratch and replace both, which is pretty straight forward. All you will need to do is buy a cheap mesh sieve, cut out the meshing, mold it over a AA battery and then install in the mic. Mine did not come with the mesh fitted in the tips, so this was what i did. They dont have any glue, and theyre not budging It sounds harder to do than it really is, if I can do it, then anyone can! [emoji3] Let me know how you get on. Marc Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Sorry, I also meant to ask if you know about moulding the mesh around the flat end of a AA battery? Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure in terms of the hand guards, but for the mic tips many use CA ( super glue ). Saying that, you may find that once completed they fit really well and dont require any.Hope this helps Marc Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Hahahaha! Love the shot with the boots off.......Hope you had a good paddle! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

I got bored trimming my kit. So I moved onto the helmet which i finished on sunday. I was really anxiuos, but thought I'm gonna have to do it at some point so jumped in I really enjoyed it. Now back to more trimming! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Cheers mate! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Back to the trimming and prep today. Cover strips all cut out. I will do the arms first. Im intending on trimming and assembling as i go along which will hopefully save my delicate hands from the pain of spending hours on end working with the lexans! Return edges on arms...... zero return at the cuff end. But what about the rest of the biceps back of forearm and bells etc? And to what depth? My last build was an fx kit which had no return edges anywhere so im at a bit of a loss! Any feedback would be greatly appreciated Thanks Marc Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Hahahaha! The exact same thing happened to me! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

And here are my "sharpie" outlines Marc

Yeah, maybe go a little thinner. I used a sharpie to do my outlines. Im on meds at the minute that make my hands shake pretty badly. Also a nail polshing block may help you take off any smudges and then buff it back upto a shine. I used one for filling a hole with paste, and you can only see the repair if you know its there. See the pic below. Hope this helps Marc

Yeah, maybe go a little thinner. I used a sharpie to do my outlines. Im on meds at the minute that make my hands shake pretty badly. Also a nail polshing block may help you take off any smudges and then buff it back upto a shine. I used one for filling a hole with paste, and you can only see the repair if you know its there. See the pic below. Hope this helps Marc

Thank you kind sir! Slow and steady, slow and steady. [emoji3] Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

No. It just adhered. This is the stuff Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Going well mate. Pretty much finished the lid. So it will be back to trimming and sanding.....Again! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

Hahaha! Yeah, once I know I dont need to take it apart again they will be gone. Have a couple of scrapes on my noggin from test fitting! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

This is my set up, I'm still not 100% happy with the padding but I'm going to wait until I install the chin strap before changing anything for now. Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk