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Troopacoola

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by Troopacoola

  1. When looking at the transmitter I felt it would be too much of a squeeze to get it to fit in the lid. I decided that I was going to rip it apart and see if I could come up with something a little smaller. Again, I wanted to mount it on something I could install, rather than installing it directly to the lid. I got the pans on again and molded a couple of strips of ABS. Next, was to crack open the milliput and begin to make the part where the smaller transmitter would be attached. First shots of the new housing made from ABS sheets. And the completed transmitter. You can see the difference in size between the two types of housing. And the final shot of it installed. I just need to paint the milliput white. Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk
  2. Look what arrived in the mail! So I can now complete my comms set up. Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk
  3. Same here Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  4. Same here Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  5. Same here Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  6. It looks good. Don't forget to remove the return edge at the cuff end. It might also be worth assembling it and posting a pic with it on. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  7. It looks good. Don't forget to remove the return edge at the cuff end. It might also be worth assembling it and posting a pic with it on. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  8. Looks good. Don't forget to remove the return edge at the cuff end. It may be worth assembling the first one and posting a pic with it on your arm
  9. It looks good. Don't forget to remove the return edge at the cuff end. It might also be worth assembling it and posting a pic with it on. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  10. It looks good. Don't forget to remove the return edge at the cuff end. It might also be worth assembling it and posting a pic with it on. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  11. It looks good. Don't forget to remove the return edge at the cuff end. It might also be worth assembling it and posting a pic with it on. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  12. It looks good. It maybe worth assembling it and then post a pic with it on. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  13. I had a similar issue with mine. I lined up the brow and then placed magnets there to hold it in place. I then bolted each side just above the tube where the ear would then cover the bolt. This pulled the tube closer. The ear should cover it and hide any gap. You can also pull it taught when you fit the final bottom ear screw. Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk
  14. I had a similar issue with mine. I lined up the brow and then placed magnets there to hold it in place. I then bolted each side just above the tube where the ear would then cover the bolt. This pulled the tube closer. The ear should cover it and hide any gap. You can also pull it taught when you fit the final bottom ear screw.
  15. I had a similar issue with mine. I lined up the brow and then placed magnets there to hold it in place. I then bolted each side just above the tube where the ear would then cover the bolt. This pulled the tube closer. The ear should cover it and hide any gap. You can also pull it taught when you fit the final bottom ear screw.
  16. Congratulations on BBB day! When starting the assembly most begin with the biceps and then forearms. Marc Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  17. Thanks Jorge! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  18. I was not convinced that the velcro meathod for holding my fan battery in my lid was secure enough. So I thought I'd have a play and see what I could come up with. I took a couple of 15mm wide lengths and bathed them Slowly but surely I began to bend them into semi circles. I then fitted them to another 15mm wide lenghth. I rounded the corners and did a test fit. They did a good job of clamping the battery, and have enough give and tension that I can just clip the battery in and the hold it well in place. Heres a shot of it placed in my lid. Its not permanent yet as I need to build up the back with more abs in order to follow the line of the curve in the bucket. I may go with modeling putty to make a level area, but I want to test the durability of the holder first.
  19. So, I have begun fitting, cutting and gluing. Starting with the biceps. I will furthe trim the returns and clean them up once they cure. I've begun to measure up the forearms too. Along with the bicep strap clips. I took x2 lengths of 15mm wide strips and gave them the hot water bath treatment.
  20. So, I have begun fitting, cutting and gluing. Starting with the biceps. I will furthe trim the returns and clean them up once they cure. I've begun to measure up the forearms too. Along with the bicep strap clips. I took x2 lengths of 15mm wide strips and gave them the hot water bath treatment.
  21. Looking good Michael! Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk
  22. Id trim the same off both sides. 11 dimples om the left arm [emoji2]
  23. Looking good, the sides will be fine once they're bolted/riveted. Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk
  24. If you are installing individual lenses then I found it was easier to do this on the faceplate prior to final assembly. As for the sharpie, its easier than painting[emoji3] ! I used the ridges as a template and just worked along the edges. You could always mask off the outside to protect the rest of the lid. I ended up going over the black with grey to tighten up the black lines. Heres a link of my build if you want to install individual lenses http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/38021-CTID's-RWA-ANH-Stunt-WIP......-501st-Here-we-go! Hope this helps [emoji3] Marc
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