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Troopacoola

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by Troopacoola

  1. You are spot on.You get two left shins with that kit! Marc
  2. Cheers mate! I will hopefully have the sound board in place by Monday- depending on free time! This one won't have the folding stock, but will have a more accurate counter [emoji3] Marc
  3. You'll be fine mate! It takes a while to come together, and there will be times that you seem to spend all day on the tiniest of details. But then, all of a sudden it all comes together. It's a slower build than a tk, and skills will improve as you go along. Once you're done, the the bug will hit and you'll want to do another! Marc
  4. Here's how mine turned out. I up scaled the image to the same size by measuring the actual ejection port on my blaster and then the image on the screen. I think the measurements are 10mm for the extractor and around 4mm for the plunger. Marc
  5. Yeah I would agree with the resilience of a rubber blaster. However, the one you'd ideal want to show off, would be the most accurate. Here's my Doopy's build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/38731-CTID's-Doopy's-E-11-Build Regards Marc
  6. Time to make some abs paste? Marc
  7. Ok so I've begun working on a second blaster. This one is for my son for christmas. I decided I wanted to add lights and sound as a bit of a surprise. I have one of bulldogs no 5 hollow scopes which I will be using to house a targeting display. A couple of leds and this is what I have so far. I'm waiting for a toy blaster (which will be the donor for the sound) to arrive. The trigger is a two stage switch. It works by pressing the trigger half way to bring up the scope lighting and fully press down to trigger the sounds. Marc
  8. Hi Mel. Fitment looks OK, providing there's elastic in there. It looks like the forearm and bicep may pinch when his arm is fully bent. If not, then leave it as is ( providing the bicep stays under the shoulder bell when in full movement ). It could be the forearm needs a little trim, as there is very little gap when the arms straight. You can't go wrong following Tonys threads, he's probably one of the most experienced out there! Marc
  9. Here's a couple shots of how my FX was set up for the arms. Maybe try and raise the biceps a touch Marc
  10. Bloody hell man! They must be tree trunks! Marc
  11. Looking good trooper! That's how I installed my lenses. Marc
  12. How big are your thighs man?!?!?! Measure up and trim down the center on both halves leaving the same amount of the lower raised edge on both sides [emoji6] Marc
  13. A couple of things may be worth addressing whist you have stripped the kit down. 1, replace the two part "tube" for the TD, also invert the "nipple" on there. 2, Separate the but from the kidney. 3. Look into replacing the ab button plates - if they haven't already been swapped out
  14. You're good to go using butt method and covers MelHere's my WIP threads.. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/38021-CTID's-RWA-ANH-Stunt-WIP......-501st-Here-we-go! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/35382-Shhhh-a-quiet-fx-rebuild Marc
  15. This one? Marc
  16. Hang fire! The overlap method is cool for EIB. However,you can do butt joints and employ cover strips irrespective of the type of armour you have. Forget about the fact that it's FX. Regards Marc
  17. Has anyone any advice on adding cheap and easy lights and sound to a blaster? I know many have ripped apart toy blasters for this, and I'm no good with coding etc. But, is there a simple circuit board which you can put a micro sd card in which will play a sound when you pull the trigger? I can manage to hook up the electronics/ make a trigger switch etc, but that's as far as my skills go Help would be very much appreciated as it would be amazing to be able to give my son a blaster with lights and sound for christmas Regards Marc
  18. This could be a good basis for a RO build! Here's my old build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/35382-Shhhh-a-quiet-fx-rebuild Marc
  19. No return edge at the wrist end.Swap out the chest and ab plate first. I wouldn't worry about the thumb print as yet. Good luck on the Build. The biggest part is replacing the lid. Go for butt joints! Marc
  20. Do you mean the selector switch?If so, I think I saw the same post. Maybe pm T-jay as I'm sure it was in a post Tino put up. Marc
  21. Has anyone any advice on adding cheap and easy lights and sound to a blaster? I know many have ripped apart toy blasters for this, and I'm no good with coding etc. But, is there a simple circuit board which you can put a micro sd card in which will play a sound when you pull the trigger? I can manage to hook up the electronics/ make a trigger switch etc, but that's as far as my skills go Help would be very much appreciated as it would be amazing to be able to give my son a blaster with lights and sound Regards Marc
  22. I tried using a spring initially, but it just stretched an wouldn't return to its original position Marc
  23. Maybe sand a little more from the inside mate [emoji6] Marc
  24. Thanks Tino. I'm not sure what other methods others use, but I thought I'd offer up this method. Marc
  25. Yey! Looking forward to seeing the end result! Marc
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