dashrazor

they should just merge with the fisd that would be cool (i never really understood why the different variations of stormtroopers are segregated online) but i am a newbie

wow that is insane! i dont think anyone could top that.. but this would be me if i were in that plane

i used to play clubs before i got married <_< but i really haven't played much in years

got bored today so i dusted off my old guitar and tried playing with my helmet on im really rusty lol

weathered

i masked off the tube stripes and touched up some overspray with an airbrush then masked off the red areas i airbrushed it with 3 different shades of red starting light around the edges and then darker shades next im gonna do the battle damage, weathering and fine detailing

starting the helmet detailing, i taped the areas to be detailed with automotive masking and filled in gaps with blue painters tape and plastic bags to prevent overspray i painted all areas black first then re masked the details after i went over the black with grey it didn't come out as good as i would like, but hopefully the battle damage will cover the problem areas

wow looks great! good work, congrats! mason

i have never tried that, but cell phone speakers should work , but the smaller size (depending on the phone) may limit the sound when put in a blaster, i do know that regular household cordless telephone speaker do not work well when over amplified (tested and the blaster sound distorted), i have used baby monitor speakers in a few of my builds, they are super loud also and can be found at thrift stores and yard sales really cheap whether or not it will work good depends on the phone used and the blaster sound circuit also, the only way to know for sure is test it out iv got a ton of sound circuits and a few old trac-phones, i may just try it good idea

i am attaching the ears with a combination of 3 glues. gorilla super glue gel, automotive goop and hot glue i allied the goop to the edges of the ears and clamped in place then i put in all the ear screws and tightened, applying small drops of super glue gel in any small gaps i filled the seams inside the helmet with hot glue for reinforcement i cleaned up the little bits of visible goop with an exacto blade and pencil eraser then sanded every inch with imperial wet dry sandpaper and claened with automotive surface prep cleaner first coat of primer

test fitting ears

i hope this is looking ok the final trimming is scary.... i am trying not to over trim but i dont want to under trim.. any input would be helpful thanks to jessie for your ata helmet build thread, it has been a big help

yes it is the same on the ps3 version also, none of the tk's have 2 drop boxes. i think it has to do with the weapons animation and lightsaber the lightsaber attaches where the other drop box should be (playing as a regular tk)

i love the smell of burning plastic in the morning i made a short demo video of my hot wire trimmer (please note i am cutting with one hand while filming with the other) here it the other ear rough trimmed now i will start fine trimming with a dremel

i am starting out my incinerator trooper build thread my plan of action 1. helmet 2. armor 3. custom pauldron 4. flamethrower got my brown box of goodies also my scrap built ammo pouch is complete (click here for templates and howto) HELMET before i do any trimming, i am coating the inside of the helmet with rustolium truck bed liner, first i scrubbed the inside of the helmet with dawn dish soap and a steel wool, then i wrapped the helmet in an old walmart bag to prevent over-spray, also i taped around the edges to hold the bags in place after 2 coats now ill let this cure over night and then begin trimming now for rough trimming i will be using my craftsman radial arm saw to do most of the rough trim work no im not kidding... i made a makeshift hot wire cutter using my radial saw and some junk making first cuts, it works very smoothly and by adjusting the voltage i can fine tune the cutting speed you cant see the cuts because they almost re-weld after cutting the cut pieces just pop off after cutting this is the cutting circuit it is made from a 12 volt transformer, variac from a sewing machine and a guitar string i tested this on some scrap plastic first and was surprised how much easier it was than scissors or a blade, i like this method because it reduces the risk of cracking the plastic, also it is very easy to guide the cuts and you can change cutting angles on a dime... *ATA

you can try adding a variable resistor in line between the amplifier and microphone to reduce the gain, this may help. fine tune it until the feedback stops, but this may reduce the overall volume a bit

sure i think i can do that no problem

congrats Pat!!

wow! nice work also if you don't want to sacrifice your aker amp i can hook you up with my electronics source, 20 watt amp kits for around 10$ shipped (you just need to solder all the components together) and they work great

awesome idea!! Ive been experimenting with ways to make grip material for a while now... this will save me a ton of time! thanks beats using a putty knife and hammer

thanks! i thought of using foam initially, but i chose wood because it will hold a nails and screws. this same method could be used with almost any material (just use crazy glue instead of nails)

lol! not at all, i am building on a tight budget, gotta cut expenses wherever i can since i got laid from my job of 4 years, i got loads of free time, gotta stay productive;) basically im gonna build everything i can from scratch

not at all it is lightweight pine

this is my new ammo pouch for my incinerator trooper (sorry about the blurry photos my camera is on the fritz) here is a rough template (by request) first i cut some 1/2" thick scrap wood into the approximate shape and size of a mp40 magazine (7" for the long 3 1/4 for the short one) then i cut all the leather off this old laptop case then i placed the blocks next to each other with about 1/8" gap between them, i used a framing square and exacto knife to cut out the shape of the backing then i reinforced the backing with some cardboard to make it more ridged, i glued it with some vinyl tile adhesive i had left over from tiling my floor, but any permanent glue should work like E6000. the backing is 2 layers, one of the leather one of thin black fabric. trace around the backing smear cardboard with glue and sandwich between the 2 backing layers i then cut strips of leather that almost wrap around the dummy clips, be sure to make the strips a few inches longer so you can close the bottom end.. then i nailed the strips to the wooden dummy clips with small nails i then glued the leather covered clips to the backing with automotive goop (great for vinyl or leather) i then nailed trough the backing after gluing (its never coming off) then i used utility hooks for snaps then cut off the hooks final result although you cant put anything in the pouches it does the job, and doesn't require any sewing:D i used this photo to help with sizing the blocks

my first armor is almost ready!! but after going over my screen caps i noticed a few details, they are small but i would like to include them in my build, would these details be acceptable? tube stripes go all the way to the ears the belt only has 1 drop box and it is dark gray (looks about the same gray as the tears and traps) i thougt at first it was just shadow but it is gray from every angle and lighting. and the wrap around shoulder pauldron of course would these changes be acceptable? for 501st acceptance and EIB? can i even get EIB status as an incinerator trooper? i want to make my first armor as accurate as i can, but most of these details are not in the any CRL. i just want to measure twice and cut once i cant wait to start cutting plastic!!!