dashrazor

yea it is a ruger kit i found it on gunbroker.com when looking for e11 parts you got a link to that tutorial by chance?i cant seem to locate it

mostly ABS plastic, some wood, various metals, pvc and some parts from the kitchen sink

dlt-19 conversion is done, just need to add t-tracks im having camera or lighting issues though i just cant seem to get a good clear shot (its driving me bonkers lol) the best thing about this is that it only weighs about 3 LBS or so, it can be wielded with one hand like a pistol

very impressive!

i made a few short vids showing some alternative trimming methods trimming armor with a belt sander trimming ears with a home made hot wire foam cutter nothing in depth or fancy yet....

got this almost done hope to put it up on the auction block by this weekend, i installed the lights and sounds and almost finished the MG34 conversion, it easily converts by removing 3 screws and the scope

looks fantastic! looks like your going for EIB as well?

i ran short on my first build as well, i ended up using the belt backer material for my last few finishing strips i am defiantly going to order an extra sheet next time i build a kit....

thats the idea if one had a scout,clone and a TK this would be good for all 3..

ive been pounding away in the shop to get this BFG done before Christmas. it is a hybrid multi blaster, primarily it is a DC-15x aka the E11s sniper rifle but it also converts into a MG-34 with a separate barrel attachment E11s DC15x clone sniper rifle this is what i have so far, the main assembly is done and electronics are almost fully installed, the MG34 barrel is almost done and ready to fit as well, when done it will be 3 different bfg's in one

they are also called imperial Melee Troopers (at least according to the games database)

good theory trying to ride his blaster rifle like a pony ha!

plans and templates should always be free, shouldn't they?

sweet man, looks nice

i just feel sorry for the poor sap that buys it <_< though it most likely wont sell at all....

i left mine as is. pretty much nothing sticks to silicone, but silicone

i would use a bit like this,----------- just go slow at first and it should make round hole. iv never drilled a hyperfirm but this type of bit works well on plastics, pvc and metal for making a nice round hole, i have tried drilling foam with a regular drill in the past and it caused some serious shredding and ripping

ive read the story on this before on starwarshelmets.com, it explains why ther is differences between the 2 helmet types http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-helmets-sub-submenu.htm here is a side by side comparison of hero/stunt helmets http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-comparisons.htm

when building models if i make a mistake and need to unbond the styrene parts, i first soak the part in warm soapy water , then apply a small amount of rubbing alcohol to the joint area, then add a bit of baby oil before the alcohol fully dries. also for lager parts you may need to repeat the process a few times or increase the soak time. note: i have not tried alcohol on abs only regular styrene plastic, so test it out on a non visible area first

i just asked him, he would have to get the go-ahead from his instructor to use the schools machine shop first ( i would also need the specs of the blank dies and the specifications to fit the extrusion machine ect... before hand) there are several different styles of dies, but i would assume something like this would be what they would need. it looks like high carbon steel to me but it could be aluminum ?? also you might want to check with the plastics company to see if it is acceptable to provide your own dies..

plastic injection molding might be a lower cost production alternative, just a thought. ive been looking into getting a benchtop model like this... eventually details here http://www.injectionmolder.net/ also i have a machinist friend at school that could possibly make the aluminum molds at cost ( technical collages could make dies or molds at a very low cost)

wow! that looks quite impressive Pat , this has to be the most extensive hasbro mod ever

a conical rasp bit works wonders on getting the holes nice and round

good work!

my ATA took about 3 months to complete but that included building my blaster, and a big part of that time was waiting for the epoxy paint to cure (over a week cure time for each coat) i took my time because i didnt want to screw it up. a few things that did speed up the build were using a hot wire foam cutter and bench top belt sander to do all of the trimming, but if you slip up using them the result could be catastrophic