dashrazor

IDK, something looks a bit off can you please send it to me for a thorough inspection JK.. very nice!

looks like more reference material will be coming

very nice!

for EI the requirements state Traps/tears and tube stripes shall be decals (with the correct ESB details), no hand-painting or decals that replicate hand painted. i would say for EI as long as you do not use hand painted style decals for the stripes you will be fine. if you are planning to got Centurion i would like to see correct ESB decals. if you have the ESB decals i say use them, you can always remove them after applying for EI/centurion it is your costume after all and you should be happy with it

like Vern said, its all how you are looking at it (perspective) and how you paint the tips of the frown. if you mask off to paint and tape along the natural contour of the helmet you will get a slightly happy frown frown masked to contour with a slight grin if you want a meaner look tape off at the end of the frown just dont do it this way

added a small update to the guidelines.

status updated, welcome aboard!

definitely EI worthy but more photos are required. you need to fix the drop box that is under the thigh and i need to see the blaster details (d-ring,t-tracks ect..) also the details noted above (helmet side view and lenses) i would also suggest that you lift the belt a bit to line up with the bottom of the AB-plate details like seen below (this should fix the drop box problems) you almost there! keep up the great work

i cleaned up the mess in this thread,,, and i will only do it once. seriously folks, if i see ANY more of this kind of activity on the forums, it will result in swift disciplinary action for all parties who participate.

Thread moved to the appropriate forum. Mike, can you pleas provide photos? you just need to verify the linage to be approved as a vetted seller these are the forum guidelines for submitting new armor/ helmets 1. If you are showing off a new mold you made, it's strongly advised to show progress pictures to validate that you are not recasting someone else's work. 2. If you have used someone else's work as a basis for your own, you must give them credit as such. 3. If you are presenting new armor, you must show pictures of your work to support your claims. 4. Any accusations of recasting must be supported with evidence, else those posts will be deleted. 5. This is not the forum for sales. If you want to sell something, please use the appropriate For Sale area. 6. This is not the forum to discuss recasting. That issue is dealt with in the Trash Compactor. if you have any questions feel free to ask

welcome alan! first off look here ------ be sure to look through this section of the fourm as well ----------

wow! im not surprised somebody bid on the suit (i have actually seen bids on worse armor ) im really surprised that one would bid when the seller has a 88.2% feedback score and only 25 sales

nice work on the fixes, it looks fantastic! Approved, great job trooper!

cant wait to see this brought to life! no pun intended

great build Alex! and your almost there just a few things that need to be changed As for the rivets holding the sniper knee plate, the centurion says: "Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave." i would like to see it removed and the holes filled, but i will allow it as it is blended to the armor well and is not really noticeable in your full body pics. this fix is a must, the strap under the arms should not be visible, (that is connecting your chest plate to his back plate), to fix this you can do one of two things: 1. Raise the black straps high enough so they blend into the under suit, so they don't overlap the kidney and ab plate. Or: 2. Remove them and re-do the strapping so the chest plate connects to his Ab plate and the back plate conecting to the kidney. This doesn't have to be screen accurate, with the metal brackets, just something that will hold the pieces together (velcro or the snaps that are glued to the inside of the parts, then connected by snaps/strapping. also the rivets on the right side are generally not acceptable. if its possible, remove them and glue or velcro the shim in place. there is currently nothing in the requirements stating one cannot use rivets to hold shims in place, but i would really like to see them removed for Centurion standards. as for the helmet details. the tears and traps need to be hand painted or optionally decals that resemble hand painted details ( TK 4510's Dave M decals) and S-trim around the neck is required as well. just a few minor details and other than that, you are very close to getting Centurion. keep up the great work your almost there!

its also due to my graphics card i think as well. when i took the screen caps i had to put the settings lower than normal to keep the PC game from crashing. the PC version of the game is VERY unstable, and quite frankly it is unplayable on most PC's

actually you can use the CRL for TKC and ICN for the Starkiller lightsaber details. 23.Lightsaber (The Force Unleashed): The hilt should be Graflex style or have the characteristics of the Graflex, (reference Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from ANH and ESB). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow. Note: Double blades, small Yoda style lightsaber, or inexpensive non-FX Hasbro Lightsaber toys are not allowed. The hilt shall be made to reference Starkiller's lightsaber (as seen in The Force Unleashed). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow. and for those that mentioned the shoulders, the bells only look that way in the PC version, the ps3 version looks rounded like the TKC or ICN..

Have a super Happy birthday Tom! thank you for your hard work and dedication to the FISD

i clear coated my helmet and my whole armor with modge podge gloss acrylic sealer but it was to seal in the airbrushed markings and weathering. it didn't harm the decals at all, and adds a really nice shine

thanks Tom. and remember.... careful you must be, when playing with fireworks

great shots! cant wait for the EIB pics

quick work on the fixes Juan! and a fantastic looking HWT!!! approved! great work trooper

one can never have too much reference materials your screenshots are fantastic! my capture device is pretty old

congrats Jarrad!!

this has to be the most awesome one i have seen http://ro-lightsaber.blogspot.com/2010/05/starkiller-galen-marek-ilightsaber.html