gazmosis

It will get you no farther than basic approval

When applying for EIB or Centurion a blaster is a must and it must comply with standards of the CRL for EIB and/or Centurion

Hey Diana!! Impressed to see you attacking this so quickly. Here are two archive pics that should explain it with no questions.As you can see, the cover strips in no way should cover the raised area at the lower thighs.

Only if it's the complete kit. The Doopy dos Hasbro conversion kit will not work for Centurion. Get the full kit then you will only build your blaster one time.

On any TK build, the parts never align perfectly especially two half parts (forearms, biceps, Etc...) My favorite challenge is to end up with those parts looking like they line up even on return edges with no gaps between seam lines.

Hey Diana: I think we ALL have been part of your build contributing our thoughts at one time or another. So finally here you are applying for EIB! Let's look at your armor!! CRL Requirements: All submission pictures (and then some) have been posted. Your armor meets all the requirements for EIB. Thank you for posting the pics of your bicep straps under your shoulder bells. They didn;t show up too well in this thread or your build thread. With that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: I think the story has already been told but for those who are reading this and haven't seen the build thread, Diana and her husband took a standard set of RS Props armor and trimmed it down significantly to fit to Diana's much smaller frame. This meant trimming and reducing every aspect of the armor. Including re-building return edges in places. A heck of an undertaking and should be commended. APPLAUSE!!! there are some things to look into. I know how much of your grieves (shins) you needed to remove. I know you were going for the tapered look you showed in your screen grab. RS shins aren't designed, unfortunately, with that taper out of the box. With the amount you cut off the bottom makes that a greater challenge. The end result looks very wide around your ankles. With the boots on, I would squeeze the shins around your ankle. If there is comfortable, significant overlap, I'd trim those down to "slim up" the look of the shins. The other detail I wanted to see you fix are some painting details on your helmet specifically the frown. You did a great job on the painting which is ALWAYS a challenge. A little shaky on the outlines but good overall. In the face close-up, I am seeing gray paint in between the teeth. Although you never ventured onto the "lip" area, the paint needs to be limited to the individual teeth an not onto the spaces in between. The ends of your frown stop very squarely (if that's a word). You seemed to stop at the indent of the 5th tooth when in fact the paint should skip over or go through that dent and continue on to end at a point. BTW...I know your holster straps weren't red Centurion Suggestions: With the extent of your research and detail, I can only assume to see a future Centurion application on here. Having visited your original build thread a few dozen times I am totally aware of the amount of work that went into bringing your armor down to your size. However, Centurion is about the details. There are some changes that are needed before an application can be submitted. The cover strips on your thigh fronts need to be trimmed back to end before the lower ridge and not extend over it. You cod rivet is huge. (here we go talking about your cod again) This should be the same 8MM split rivet as the left side rivets. Changing this out will give you a chance to shorten your strap that connects the cod and butt. This may tighten things up pulling the parts closer together. The next thing I want to bring up is something that gave me gray hairs knowing how much work went into your armor. Again, Centurion is about the details. Your hardware placements on your sides needs to be discussed. The male snap location needs to be in the upper corner of the right side of the ab. Now about your left side rivets. My concern begins with this shot which I added side rivets to. I realize that you trimmed a bunch off the top of your ab AND kidney but you have them lined up here perfectly and the rivet placements should be in this position as seen on the original suits:Aside from the notch that was not added at the bottom of your kidney(no big deal), you guys NAILED the proportion. The rivets on your kidney ended up very misaligned with the ones on the ab. I altered this shot of your side to show where the rivets should be. I know the level of ingenuity both you and your husband have and these minor repairs should be little challenge for you. Congratulations to both of you on a huge accomplishment and welcome again to EIB!

There are no requirements for how to hold the armor together from the inside. Look at the EIB threads to get an idea of the approach you want to take because every application includes a shot of their interior strapping. Now if you go for Centurion, the standards change greatly. I would decide which route you want to go because if you build for Centurion first, you will pass EIB

You are right on point so far! First thing you need to do is throw out the idea that the two halves are going to fit together like a puzzle piece. They won't. I am a little shocked by how little overlap you have on the helmet's left side. That usually has a ton of overlap on the ATA helmets. Anyway, a rivet at the ear is a given, I have always shot another rivet right along the cheek tube. If you don't add the second rivet, the helmet halves can and most likely will pivot. Just don't place it too far down because you will need room for that lower ear screw. You could always slide the brow line up just a tad. This will give you a little more overlap at the bottom. The main focus at this point is to make sure your brow trim sits flush across the forehead. Be sure the front side of the temple traps aligns with the outer corner of each eye. Before riveting at the ear, I ALWAYS start with a screw and a nut which is the same size as the rivet. Mainly because it's removable should you need to make adjustments. Drill out your ear mounting holes on both sides of the cap first. Align your brow line and all other points and mark the faceplate through the ear hole in the cap ON ONE SIDE. Drill that mark out and secure with the screw and nut. Now you can work on aligning the other side without worrying about the first side falling out of place. Pull the plastic over so that the brow sits nice and tight against the face. Make sure your brow line is even and the cap is centered on the face properly. **If you made a mistake (and we ALL do) and the cap is not centered, You can drill out your hole on the side you secured first and move the screw location until it is centered. If it takes two or three tries it's fine. The ear will cover it.*** Once everything is sitting pretty, mark the face through the hole on the other side and drill that out. Now you can secure that side with a rivet, and go back, remove the screw and secure that first side with a rivet. The helmet halves will still pivot. Adjust your brow to the height you want and find a spot along the side seam line to drill and pop another rivet it. Repeat on the other side. Now you can begin your ears

Aside from the correct shape of the original hovi tip, they have never been scrutinized to that level. As long as they have screen and they are the right shape they are good.

There are several holster makers here in the "ongoing sales" section. I am concerned that the one you have might not make it for basic approval. But I guess we will see. That inside over outside left calf closure will be something you will need to fix as well

That's Hyperfirm for you. They tend to overdo the weathering a bit. Especially on the grip which isn't really supposed to have any weathering.

Hey Chris: Thank you for your application for EIB!!! Let's take a look at your armor. CRL Requirements: It was actually kind of difficult for me to look at your armor. Your pictures are very poor quality and blurry. I was able to decipher the details that were necessary. All submission pictures have been posted. Your armor meets the requirements. With that I would like to congratulate and welcome you EIB! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: I know that being a bigger trooper comes with its challenges. You did a really nice job hiding the side shim seams. Well done! With that in mind, I am concerned about the flare out on your left side. This is creating an out of balance look to your armor that screams "fix me!" Another thing that shares that sentiment is your right thigh. It looks a lot bigger than your left. I know it took a lot of work to make your thighs fit in the first place, but I think it would benefit the overall look of your armor to reduce that right thigh at the knee. I would pull the paint from your crotch rivet. These were normally not painted. I would also switch out the pop rivets from your thermal detonator to the correct slot head screws. I can see your lower most rivet on your left side. I shouldn't. This is because of two things: either your rivet placements are too close together or it might be you are wearing your belt too low. It should be up a little higher in the back. It does not need to cover the seam of your butt and kidney. Centurion Suggestions: This is going to come with its challenges. It is never easy to take something designed for a small frame and match it to a large frame. As I mentioned before, you have done a great deal of work so far to get yourself this far and that should be commended. As you know, Centurion is about the details. This has been a subject that has come up time and again regarding the raised areas on ATA armor. It is not required that the entire raised are be filled by a cover strip. The seam cover strips on the forearms and biceps were roughly 15 mm. The ones on your biceps look to be much wider than that. Too wide. I cannot even make out the detail on your thigh backs but I assume the same issue presents itself there. Although the strips on the back of the legs should be roughly 25mm (I will bargain on a tad larger for certain applications as long as everything is consistent) it is going to take some masterful work to achieve a Centurion look here. Follow up on that rivet placement issue I mentioned above. Make sure your drop box outer edge aligns with the outer edge of the waist belt. Your center button plate on your ab needs to be reduced in size a bit. It should sit on the raised "stage" area with stage seen around it. Like this:The button plate should not come near or exceed the edge. The topic of hand painted details has come up a lot lately. I commend anyone who takes on the task of handpainted details but there are specifics that the final look dictates. The black line that encompasses the tears, and the trapezoids should be a small pinstripe not a thick outline. you came very close to this on your rank area of the ears. You will need to go back and reduce the thickness of this line. Because of the quality of your photos, I can't really see the consistency of the lines but try to make it as consistent as you can. Please contact me should you have any other questions.

I'd be glad to help but being in Illinois puts me a little far away. Sorry, Brother. Good luck!!!!

Jason! those side gaps are awesome! Great fix! Welcome to EIB, Sir!!!!!!! Please review the Centurion requirements and the photo listings. You are making changes to your armor. For the exception of individual shots like the neck seal, the blaster, and the one above showing the adjusted holster attachment, make sure you submit new armor shots. all shots should be of your Centurion armor for a Centurion application. Good luck1

Rubber handplates will be something you will want to look into, too

Mmmmmmmmmmmm beeeeeeeeer!

You have some good looking armor. If you are shooting for Centurion, you will need to adjust some things. First you will need a thermal detonator even for basic approval. I would resize your right bicep. It is way bigger than your left. Make sure the outer edge of your drop boxes line up,with the far outer edge of your belt. I can"t tell but how the back of your shins are. The outside needs to fold over the inside. On your left, it almost looks like the INSIDE is over the outside. The last thing is your holster. I would start looking at EIB and Centurion applications and look at their holsters. The straps that go to the belt should be attached by rivets or Chicago screws and should be about 3/4 (20mm) wide. They were never sewn. It also looks very wide. It should measure about 5 1/2 inches wide by about 15 3/4 long. There should be no rivets on the seam line. Please ask if you have any questions. Good luck and welcome!

You should really size the parts wearing your undersuit. It makes a difference.

Steve-o!! Great set of RS young man!!! And a great build to go with it! Let's take a look at your armor!! CRL Requirements: All submission photos posted! I like the way you used the brackets for authenticity but used straps to keep things together. It will save ANY cracking from happening. Good clean build all together. All EIB requirements met. With that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB!!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: I always suggest this with the super accurate belts. The fray you are experiencing comes with the material. the original design does not allow the edge to be surged. As a result, the nylon and the twill fray. The lok is great but if it happens too much, it might jeopardize the structure of the belt. You can tame this by mixing up a little all purpose(Elmers type) glue or fabric glue. Dilute it in water by half and brush it along the belt's edges. You don;t need to soak it just enough to cover the stitching. It will still fray a little but not NEARLY as much. I know that the length of your holster straps was brought up. I feel it is more distracting if they are too long than a little short. You can leave them as they are. Centurion Suggestions: With all your details, it is obvious you have Centurion in your sights. I have a couple suggestions that i would do to improve the overall look of your armor. First, you need to reduce the length of the strap that goes between your belt and drop box. There should be little to NO gap here. While we are on drop boxes, make sure that when you photo up for your Centurion shots that your drop boxes align with the ends of your belt. Next is the male snap on the right side. I know that you followed the indent that RS provides as a hardware marker, but if you are leaving the extra material provided, that marker becomes useless as the male snap needs to be in the upper CORNER like this:What I am hoping, is that you will suit back up and really press the ab and kidney together and they overlap allowing you to trim off that extra material. But that male snap, like the side rivets(which are perfect) needs to sit in about 10 from the edge. Next are the handpainted details. I applaud anyone who tackles this task. You did a fine job with one exception: the outline of your traps are a little thick. All grey areas (front/rear traps), tears, and rank bar area should be outlines roughly the same with a pinstripe like this:You nailed it on your rank bars so I know you can do it. Once the adjustment is made, you will see how much better it will look. Lastly is to make sure you are suited up correctly for your Centurion shots. Mark your forearms as the cover strip ridge should be on the TOP of your forearm. (see pic of Han above) Congratulations again!!!!

Ian covered the boot thing, as for your need for a connection between your ab and chest.....no you don't need it. You just want to make sure that your ab never sneaks out over your chest. The next time you suit up, lean back and take a deep breath. If your chest slips under your ab, you will need to consider it. If it doesn't, don't worry about it.

This is a "shiny". I would pull that brow trim off and wet sand thai paint down. Not too much that can be improved on the beauty of this helmet, but that would. Unless you only single coated it. If you did, move along!

Damn! That bolts slams home! Is the charging handle the only thing stopping that?

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/2246-anhstuntfrown1/ Take a look at these images. You will see that you need to take more out of your teeth

Come paint my car!

Never stop asking questions. Here it is in a nutshell: MTK and CAP are the only two armor makers that sell here and also on Ebay. Trust no other sellers on Ebay. If you see a set of armor other than MTK or CAP, featured here being sold on Ebay, someone bought it, and couldn't build it or had to sell it. If you want to learn the differences in the armors, and you should, look at build threads. You will find all the information you are looking for there.