gazmosis

There are pros and cons about the Hyperfirm. They do have a tendency to over weather them, the scope rail is not accurate, but it is ready out of the box and no bumps on the heads of kids who sneak in under the vision line and go ahead and drop it. No repairs is always a good thing!

Airbrushes are priced by function and precision. You could spend between $70 and $400 depending on what you want to accomplish. Spray cans dispense an amount of paint that cannot under any circumstance be precisely controlled. Airbrushes have that capability. As with anything, there are pros and cons. I have always relied on the Paasche VL. This a double action airbrush that has settings that allow you to dial in exactly how much paint comes out at the press of the release button. It is VERY affordable. At around $125, you get the whole kit which includes bottles, hose, and some replacement parts. You can buy just the brush at about $80, but why not get everything? Now, you also need a compressor. These can be obtained afford ably. Your paint will almost always need to be thinned unless your paint specifically says "Airbrush ready". If you are not ready to thoroughly clean your airbrush after EVERY use, don;t buy one. I have been using the same airbrush for 35 years. because I clean the hell out of it after every use. You will need some practice with both paint thinning and air pressure. IF your paint is not thin enough the paint pattern will spit chunks, if it's too thin or the air pressure is too high, your pattern will look like an octopus or spider ...far from even. But once you get all these things dialed in, you will never go back. I have used mine from TK's to cake decorating to applying Darth Maul make-up for a Garrison mate.

The groove is the right line to cut

You can buy the nylon at any fabric store or I look for it on any old backpack or gym bag. It's surprising how much is out there if you look for it. As for the snaps, http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/hardware/snaps/1263-045.aspx there is a link. But you can always look at your fabric store but they will not have the quantity you will need.

To have anyone assemble a kit is going to cost money. RS props is near the top of the list when it comes to how much a base suit will cost. But it is also the most accurate. For the exception of AM armor, any armor sold here will be accepted at any level of accuracy here. You also get the confidence that the sellers here are trustworthy, their product comes recommended, and there are dozens of threads here, showing examples of how they are built. If you have committed to the decision to have your suit built for you, RS and TM are the only two offering the service. There are others that can be hired to build your suit for you ( see Vern). Hope that helps

Make sure your cover strips are cut to length. Don't take the chance of damaging your armor by trimming them after they are glued. Also, If you used a razor knife to cut your cover strips, you WILL have a little raised edge on the cut line. Make sure you remove this or the cover strip will not sit flush on the surface of your parts.

I must ask.....why do you think that a pipe kit can't be made into an accurate blaster??

http://www.reynoldsam.com This is a place which will be your last stop for anything molding or casting. Word of warning:$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Unless you plan on doing a run of several of anything, it's not worth the money to do just one. More than likely, platinum silicone was used to take the molds and urethane rubber is used to make the pulls.

Can you please post two additional pics, Joe? I need a shot of the wrist openings on your forearms for no return edge, and a shot of the right side of your helmet. Thank you!

Wow, Fred....time has passed! Glad you stuck with it and followed up! Like I said, your ab buttons look TONS better. Tons! And great job getting hold of the proper "D" ring and charging handle. I think, however, that you may have installed the charging handle backwards. The charging handle has a slight curve to it that should curve towards the front of the blaster: This will not stand in your way for achieving EIB, though. Congratulations and welcome to Expert Infantry!!!! Centurion Suggestions: Just to recap some previous comments regarding items that I'd like to see on your Centurion application should you decide to pursue that. If, in fact, that charging handle is backwards, it should be proper on the blaster. Make sure when taking your Centurion photos that your drop boxes properly align with the vertical end of the belt. Lastly is the excessive overlap of your sides. RS always leaves this extra material and it creates more issues than if it was trimmed properly. Although this is another troopers right side, it is exactly like yours and you can see where I marked the trim line: Here is YOUR left side and the trim line mark: You will notice an immediate improvement in comfort and overall appearance as well as correct the positions of the male snap and rivet placements. Congrats again on EIB!!!!!

??????????? huh?

Bottom line is that ebay is good for some things....armor is not one. There are two sellers that are on here (MTK and CAP) that sell on Ebay to make a few extra dollars. Due to our experience here, it allows us to know the difference. Other Ebay sellers will say anything true or false to sell their items. You can be assured that whatever armor you buy on here will be supported, will be accepted as accurate, and you will gave the support of the seller and the guidance of most every member on here. No one wants to see you regret an investment like this. This is an story we hear all too often from Ebay purchases. As for armor type, RT Mod might be a little big for your frame. AP might be a little small. RS, TM, MTK, CAP, ATA, are good for your frame

The differences in color are minimal. Although the PVC is more flexible, it us not damage proof and will crack given the right circumstance.

NEGATIVE ON THE LENGTH TRIMMING!! You want that little bit of return edge on the bottom. If anything, take a little off the edge that sits against your chest. That plus making sure it is up all the way to the top of your shoulder will make it come up. Your final goal should be to have it close to touching the ribbed shoulder bridge when you install that. BTW, the shoulders are interchageable

ATA fits a size 38 waist around the belly button with no shimming. Even if you have a 40 waist, it might be a squeeze, but I think you would still fit into it.

Don't panic if the gap doesn;t fill in the first time. Certain gaps will take a couple coats. Have patience, sandpaper, and polishing compound.

You have two choices....as of right now, as far as I know, Troopermaster and RS Props are the only two armorers offering suits built to your specifications. If you look in the "for sale" threads, there are people willing to build it for you for a fee. If you are willing to build it, I would strongly consider it. ANY tutorial on how to build armor can be found here in the build threads section. There is a definitive award when you say "I built this". Research the build threads. There are only a million of them. After doing that (which we ALL have) you will have an idea of what supplies you'll need and what procedures you will need use. If you get stuck, don't "willy nilly" anything.....ask a question. Start your own build thread, add lots of pictures. WE LOVE PICTURES!!!!! Plus a picture says more than you could ever describe in words. The only bad question is one you never asked.

Hey Todd: We have finally arrived at the point that we can review yet another addition to your museum of costumes!! This one should be up front!!! Let's take a look!!! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have now been posted. The Death Trooper mostly appears as a costume of novelty. There have been some incredible examples floating around, but few cross these pages. Whatever level this costume is taken to takes incredible artistry. The damage, blood, and weathering needs to be done right or it just isn;t believable. In my opinion, you have nailed it. In reviewing other Death Troopers, and comparing them to yours, it is obvious that your goal was to duplicate the "Gentle Giant" statue. Typically, the Death Trooper is seen as a gory mess. Your goal was a "less is more" approach. As you stated, your trooper has died from his chest blast wounds, but because of his mostly in tact helmet, he hasn't had the chance to "dine" on anyone nor has anyone "fed" on him. The lack of blood and duplication of the statue almost mark for mark emulates this perfectly. From our standpoint here, I need to look at the technical aspect of the build. The DT armor was based on the ANH TK. As a result, the proper details must be contained. Two things stuck out to me: The multiple rank bars on the ears and your original thermal detonators. The rank bars I will look by in lieu of a Centurion application (which you have stated is NOT your intention). However, although both the rank bars and upside down and mostly solid thermal detonator are on the statue, I believe that these are both oversights on the part of the artist paying more attention to DT details than ANH Stunt details. You have repaired the thermal detonator to stick with the proper base construction of the costume and that was appreciated. All that stated, I would like to congratulate you on yet another EIB!! Well done and well though out!! Centurion Suggestions: Although Todd has replaced mostly the entire costume with accepted armor parts, the FX torso still remains which makes this ineligible for Centurion. It was not Todd's intention but I needed to explain it anyway. Congratulations again!! Go scare someone!!!!!

You can also use standard automotive compound and a little elbow grease and you will get a mirror shine out of your helmet. As for the paint coming off, don't worry about it. It adheres pretty nicely. Just make sure to care for your helmet during storage. Wrap it up in padding or a protected helmet bag.

Yes, Yes, Yes Well done!!!! Thank you for making this small adjustment and with that I would like to welcome you to Centurion!!!! Congratulations, Sir!!!

Alright! Thank you, Joe, for following up. On to your armor!! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have now been posted. Helmet details are always important. The "Hero" helmet has to be a bit more specific. This is yet another stellar example of TM armor in its glory. Well built, well detailed, and well deserved of an EIB award!! Congratulations on your second EIB badge!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: This is the section where myself and your fellow troopers provide observations for slight changes to improve the overall look of your armor. These will not affect any application. I do not have much of anything to contribute here. If you were to threaten me with a hot poker to list something, it would be with the trap and tear vent lines. Now, I applaud anyone who takes on the task of hand painting. You did a great job!! Looking at the vent lines on your tears, (here is a side by side with a screen used lid) Maybe its the spacing, the positioning within the tear, the thickness of the vent lines themselves. I don;t know. Perhaps I am just splitting hairs. With the rear traps, here is the screen used lid:Yours:and a small adjustment I did with my kindergarten "paint" skills to make them just a tad shorter: Again, this is just what catches my eye. I am not requiring a change here. It is more just an observation. Centurion Suggestions: Just make sure to post all required pics from the list. Unless your submission pics show something not seen here, I don;t note anything that would stand in your way. Fantastic work!!!

What about the red body filler we all used to use on the TE buckets to repair the brows? Spot putty

Thank you, Joe!

Great to see you finally made it to Centurion!!! Rushing into these things is never suggested. Let's look at your armor!! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: I can't think of a word other than "Delicious" every time I see a TM set of armor. Yours, Peter, is no exception. Awesome attention to detail, Stellar construction, on point helmet details, and top notch hardware locations are what Centurion is all about. You even have the kidney notch.....oh wait...TM already comes with that! Look how funny I think I am!!! HAHAHA! ANYWAY......... There is just one thing that I will ask you to change and post a picture of before I put your Centurion award through. It is a requirement that the wrist opening of the forearms have NO return edge. This includes the ridge with the square indents. Here are your openings: Here is the way they need to look: This is a 5 minute touch up and pic and we will be good!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Let's remind ourselves here folks: we are all not built the same. Some have longer arms, shorter torsos, long shins, short thighs. We have to work with what nature has given us. In the case of Peter's shins, nothing ever jumped out at me as a fit issue. The sniper plate seems to be hiding a bit under the thigh but that is just camera angle and I am sure it clears when his leg bends. Raising the shins would make it hit for sure. If the height of your shins is at all a concern, Peter, I would take a little off the bottom or just leave it as it is. As for the rivets on the thermal detonator. Would I prefer and suggest that you had the slotted screws? Yes. Will I make you change them? No. This is a specific detail that until it is put into the CRL as a necessity, I will only suggest and encourage the change. My only other comment, if I was to make one, would be that your scope rail on your blaster boarderlines on being a little high off the receiver body. But I am not requiring a change with this. I am just making a note. Your armor is on point and your Garrison should be proud to have you beside them. Please do that one little change with your forearms and you will make them envious!

Look in a store that supplies clothes for dancing/figure skating/ballet. That is where we got ours.