gazmosis

Have you contacted the Sith Detachment??

Pics always help. You should use the correct size rivet for the job. You want just enough to go through your parts that you are joining and the backer washer. It will never end up flush, but flattening it out is possible. First, take the stem of the rivet that you popped out. Place it into the rivet and with a couple gentle taps with a hammer, knock out the ball that is lodged in the rivet. Use pliers or the rivet gun to get the stem back out. Lay your workpiece rivet head down on a hard, flat surface. Now just tap the underside of the rivet until flat. This method works best when your rivet is just longer than your workpiece is thick. If your workpiece is 1/8 inch thick and you use a 1inch rivet it might not go so well.

Holy movie perfect. However, you listed this thread in the other 501st costume section. 3PO clearly is not 501st thus a clear violation of forum rules. I will send you my address so you can relinquish the costume to me as punishment. You did spectacular work! I will thoroughly enjoy the costume!!

Totally on point!!! Perfect so far!

No, Jonathan. Some were black, some had the front paint chipped off. As long as it's not too distracting, a little weathering is acceptable.

My band saw is very fine toothed for detail woodworking. It goes through foam like butter with accuracy.

You did it right so far. Your story is a great one. Way too familiar to a lot of us!! It's great to hear that your sights are set so high. Why not start at the top?? Humbrol paints, though accurate, are a bit unconventional in their behavior....which is why I only use them for tube stripes. Their 6 hour dry time drives me nuts as well. I never rush anything, but I do get into a rhythm and like to move forward. Anyway, you will need to repair those outlines where your paint ran. I suggest that you go get some long bristled brushes. These are my weapons: With long brushes like these(and a bit of practice) you can make a pinstripe around these areas with a fair bit of consistency in the thickness of the line. This is mainly because if you put more pressure on the brush, the bristles just bend rather than fanning out like smaller brushes do. Jittery hands don't help so no coffee if you plan on this method. Take it slow and steady. Things look great so far!

It still blows me away that after all these years, AP helmets still come with the wrong mic tips and neck trim. Nice work on the helmet and good recovery on those ears. On your next helmet, I would make the tooth openings a little more squared at the corners than rounded. Well done

Don't worry about the sideways pic. I took care of it. Anyway, thank you for your Centurion application! It was evident that this was your goal all along. Let's take a look!! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted. Thank you for a thorough application! Yes.....you have the flexible handplates!!!! Nice shot! Hahaha! Anyone in your Garrison should be proud to be beside you. I know I would. Congratulations and welcome to Centurion!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Normally, I give your application a few days to have your fellow troopers look over your application and perhaps suggest things that may improve the overall look of your armor. I didn't really see a need. It was a pleasure to look over this armor! I do find it interesting that you joined your torso parts together yet still use the chest to back elastic. In looking at your picture closely, It really doesn't seem to be doing anything except drooping. If your armor sections are secure, I'd just remove it or shorten it up if you like your armor to hug you. Well done and congratulations again!!

HAIL Caesar that which is Caesar!!!! Thank you for your Centurion application and giving us a chance to look on this terrific set of armor! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: Application was outstanding. All required photos have been submitted. Your hard work has paid off resulting in an easy pass for your Centurion badge. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Well done all the way around. Your Garrison should be proud!

I am sorry that this took so long. Thank you for the follow up on those wrist openings!! Your Hero Armor is officially Centurion approved. Congratulations!

Actually, the Sterling handles were hard plastic.

I take it you like the low brow!!

I agree. This build is so cool to watch! Awesome progress! The boy looks outstanding in it!

For the short duration that any E11's had their wires in the film, they were very thin diameter wires. Sorry to say that yours are a bit thick. Take a look here:http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2485-e11-power-cylinder-wires/

Thanks guys! I am so anxious to get this done. We dry fitted the torso on him and it was like the suit was molded from him. Can On my way! one please make days 48 instead of 24 hours!!!!!!!

Leave it to maker of things. There is nothing he hasn't recasted

Sent him a LONG message. Doubt I'll get a reply but any bug in his ear is a good one.

I really didn't want to do a full build thread not knowing what this armor had in store for me. A garrison mate very generously purchased this armor for our garrison. This armor will remain in our area for us to use to hopefully be able to make a kid's dream come true. It will be used first by my mate's son for halloween. First I would like to state what a pleasure it was to work with Walt and the quality of this armor and the sculpts of the molds are fantastic. It is almost like an RS suit was shrunk down it is that high quality. Because of its quality, it has made this a pleasure to build so far. I have mostly pics of the parts so far. The helmet was a joy to build. The brow trim is a little soft but if that is what's out there in this size, so be it. I did go to the hardware store and pick up screws that had heads with just a bit smaller diameters. All details hand painted except the tube stripes. Standard helmet ones I felt were a little wide left to right so I trimmed them back a bit off the sides. The hovi tips are adorable. The have these large back ends on them which I cut off.I decided in stead to make an ABS plate with a screw post so I sanded down the back and superglued it to a piece of ABS and sanded it flush.I was able to install the screens after that which have a nice little platform for the screen to sit on in the inside edge of the tip. No changes needed with the thermal detonator. I did get 3/4 inch aluminum to make the clips, though. The tube needed to be painted. I felt this project desserved to have the proper belt so I scaled it down to meet the mini angles on the mini waist belt. 2 1/4 inches total width but same construction: two inner layers of duck cloth with an outer layer of denim twill and inside layer of white satin. I sealed the edges with diluted elmers all purpose glue to prevent fraying. The outside: and inside Although much of the hardware I am scaling down to meet the reduced size of this armor, I am going with the standard 8mm split rivets becaus I have them and I will never use smaller ones. Not worth buying a whole bunch of something you'll never use. You can see here that the split rivets really don;t look too out of place. I did add the kidney notches on both sidesFor any snaps that are showing, I scaled them down from line 24 to line 20. These do make a difference in appearance because of the difference between the two snap sizes. Line 20 is on the right. These smaller snaps look very appropriate for their placements.Mini button platesFuture rivet placementsThese just show how nicely the parts are going together. I am using interior connecting strips then cover strips.The boy is very thin (as most 11 year olds are. I had to take quite a bit off the forearms and biceps which left one of each splayed wide open. It would be too much stress on the parts to glue them as is so I wrapped them and gave them a hot water bath to close the gaps. Beforeall wrapped up ready to bathe!!They came out very nice. One other thing I changed was the rivet covers on the waist belt. These were molded with the dome and the square which we all know leaves for little gluing surface. I ground down the diameter of a dime slightly and using the same method as in the "how to make replacement rivet covers" thread....made new rivet coversSO CUTE!!!!! Random leg part pics.I added the notch at the top of the right thigh. I will post more pics as more progress is made.

I use a band saw or electric carving knife

Your chest is catching my eye. it seems to be bulging outward at your arm pits. In looking at the before/after shots of your adjustment with the heat gun, you reduced the side flare to adjust so tightly to YOUR shape. Now you ad the ab plate underneath, it seems to be pushing the sides back out making it flare up higher. Maybe I'm just seeing things???????

those tear vents are cool!!!! Well, so is the whole thing......duh

Alright Andy! I hope it's OK to call you that. Anyway, thank you for your application for Expert Infantry! Let's take a look at your armor. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: You didn't post a close-up of the hovi tips which is an important detail since AP doesn't come with them. Are the sink aerators still coming with the kit?? Anyway, the close up of the helmet face clearly shows they are NOT the aerators and are the proper tips. I am pleased to say that your armor expresses all necessary elements for EIB. Congratulations and welcome to Expert Infantry!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: This is a section reserved for suggestions from both myself and fellow troopers for tips and suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. However, with pleasure, I can say there isn't a whole bunch to add here!! The attention to detail and assembly care are evident. If there was a book with the title, "The way your AP armor should look", yours would be a chapter in it. Well done. Centurion Suggestions: Since you included extra photos with this application, there are few Centurion details that cannot be seen. Nice work on those kidney nothches!! The only thing that needs to be done is make certain to re-take full body armor shots wearing your rubber gloves with the flexible hand plates. For Centurion, it's not enough to have them. Your application must represent your Centurion quality armor. Also, make certain when posting your pics, that you show a pic that has both of your forearms showing the wrist opening with no return edge. It was a pleasure to view this! Congrats again!!!

You're famous!!!!!!!! Awesome right up......awesomeness armor, brother!,,

Magnets are your best bet for assembly though some just use tape but that can get expensive. As for the cover strips: A common guide that has always been followed is 15mm width on arms, 20 mm width on the leg fronts, 20-25mm on leg backs. For length on the arms, the strip should run the length of the seam top to bottom. For the thighs, the cover strips will go from the top and go UP TO and not exceed the ridge at the bottom. On the shins, the full length of the seam on the front. Since the shins are open, you will only attach the strip to the outer half, and will go UP TO and not exceed the ridge at the top. As for the seams themselves, if the part you are working on has a raised ridge like the thigh fronts, the ridge should be the same width as the cover strip. On MTK parts like the biceps and thigh backs that don't have the ridge(which is more accurate anyway) you just need to worry about proper fitting to your body and a straight seam line.