gazmosis

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26588-more-accurate-sterlinge-11-paint-finish/ Don't know why this hasn't been used more. Yes you have to knock the gloss down a bit but the texture is a cool one!

I would insure them for $500 a piece.

After speaking with you, I understand yours was flat. This part you refer yo is the rear sight which should have come already shaped to the receiver. If not, this was a small oversight by the Doopy guy(s). Regardless, it still needs to be done for the part to fit securely enough to be glued to the receiver.

I have always trimmed the heck opening last. Dude...be careful around your tooth openings! It looks like you are hacking up around them. You might want to consider something a bit more controllable like an exacto knife or tiny files. Your final openings should be squared and like you said, following the slope of the frown.

This the best example of the BS that is n Ebay. They show a completely different set of armor in the original picture then what is really being sold. I guess as long as it's white and plastic it's all the same.

All the extras and the removal of the d ring holder are for the promo blaster

You don't need the greeblies. You just need to remove the counter and powe cylinders

I agree with sly and I agree with the E6000. I have used both with success. But Andrew's words are golden. You REALLY need to be specific in your application. I marked the location of everything and rehearsed every application. I wiped down all my surfaces with alcohol so they were super clean. I never needed the zip kicker, though. I had it...just never used it.

You should also be able to grab a scrap from an antique store. Call around to afew and find out if they do repairs to old electrical items using cloth covered wire

I will ask the LMO then

Has there been a decision as to whether or not KW's helmet HAS to be used or can a standard TK helmet be used?

Those pics are good, Juan. I will update the archive when I get home

You need to have it glued on only if you are going for EIB. You mentioned small nuts and bolts. Attaching it with that will not be acceptable.

Your ears look like you can still take a bit off at the top of the cheek tube. They are also positioned a bit high. The top of the round portion typically is just at or below the ridge line. It will always be a question to me. Why apply so much black paint for the tiny pinstripe outline in the tears and traps?

What an adventure into plastic spaceman land!! Love it! You look great! A few things jump out at me. Your belt has some farly good droop in the front. It should be resting tight against the ab with the top edge right against the bottom of the button plates( nice recovery on that button plate reposition) your drop boxes look thick to me. 10-12 mm thick are what is a good thickness and perhaps it is just the pic but the straps that connect the boxes to the belt look long. There should be little to no gap between the top of the drop boxes and the belt. Next is the thigh pack on your right thigh. It should be attached at the far upper corner of the pack itself. Your connection point on the thigh ridge is correct, but your pack itself is way too high. You also might want to,shorten those holster straps a bit. 3/4-1 inch is all you need between the holster and the belt.

Testors as with most model paints, is not designed for durability or over handling. But if you are just looking to add color to certain areas for weathering and detail capture, any model paint will work for this because it won't see much handling in these areas.

If there are any differences, they are too minuscule to really be categorized as differences. Just make sure they are positioned correctly on the cheek tube and you will be fine

Hey Michael!!! Wow! Merry Christmas to us!!!!! Thank you so much for this incredible example of both a stellar EIB/Centurion application process and of course, a stupendous build! This will be at the top of my "how it should look" list to link people to when they want to see a fine example. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted. Your armor contains all required elements for Centurion. Now for a Christmas gift from the FISD.......I would like to congratulate and welcome you to Centurion! Other Suggestions: Thank you for making the little changes you did; Adjusting the thighs, good brow trim position, proper drop box position, better drop box thickness, all were icing on this tasty TK cake!! How could this possibly be improved?? I would dampen a brush with mineral spirits and go around the black outlining of the tears, traps and rank bar areas of the ears and tweek the paint just a bit to smooth out those lines. But if this is something you think is cool, by all means leave it. Now get out there and make your Garrison proud!! Like you haven't done that already!

Looks gorgeous!!!! Can't wait to see her all painted up!

I would step back a bit first. Those thighs are HUGE on you. Once you separate the halves in the back and resize them, you might be able to make that un even ness up. Try and fix things so that seam runs vertically up the CENTER of the back of your thigh. I am also not so sure why they were trimmed down so small in the back. The tops should be right under the crease where your butt meets your thighs.

It's actually not a bad helmet. From a basic prop standpoint. The helmet was done in "Hero" fashion, but it has a problem...it is supposed to have only three rank bumps on the ears not 4. If the ears are molded into the sides, that could be a problem unless you alter the helmet back to the "stunt" version.It also has the incorrect neck opening trim. That should be an "S" style trim. Also if you are buying this to troop in, most armor packages come with a helmet unless you specify it NOT to. Unless you want two helmets. Just somethings to think about.

That is something you will need to make up your mind about. ATA armor is geared mostly toward ANH and ESB troopers. In both cases, your base build should be geared at the Sterling L2A3 with a much shortened magazine. Once you have that, you will ad the m38 or m40 tank scope on a scope rail that mounts between the rear sight and top rear most vent hole, the power cylinders on the magazine housing and the Hengstler counter also mounted on the magazine side behind the mag housing. I have been very vague here so research the other build threads and the Sterling reference pics in the "photo reference" window at the top of the page. If you are going for ROTJ, that is a whole different ball game. Let us know which film you are going for and no, you do not need to replicate a specific weapon seen in the films.

And to you and your family, Dustin!

Impressive....most impressive

Wow! Great build so far. I love a perfectionist!