gazmosis

Yes it will. Since I don't know if you are using plastic or webbing for your snap plates, you can also use CA glue if you are using webbing to make your snap plates. Then top it off with a little E6k.

Yea h but tell him you'll pay $350 because that is what he paid for it

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.kjmagnetics.com/categories.asp?gclid=CIvV6MmC5coCFQktaQodf1AFRw'>http://www.kjmagnetics.com/categories.asp?gclid=CIvV6MmC5coCFQktaQodf1AFRw</a><br> This place offers a much wider variety of sizes and thicknesses

It's the bayonet Lug if you have not confirmed it. And Chris, If that is indeed what you are referring to, it came with the kit.

I would not think there is anything holding these helmets back from Centurion as they come out of the box

Here is the compound that I have been using to polish out the armor. Any store bought automotive compound would work, though. As you can see in the background, I am setting up the masking for the tube stripes.

You will also need Semi-gloss black for the vocoder in between the hovi tips

I scanned your thread and Trooperbay has always been the main supplier of ESB decals however the jury is still out as to whether or not they will fit the Anovos helmet yet Thank you, Jason

Ok, painting day. However I am going to skip around. Sadly, I don;t have a before shot of the teeth. but, if you have yours in hand, you can just compare it to what is on the screen while holding it. Keep in mind what I did with the tooth line wasn't drastic. The bottom of the tooth is molded and curved so if you carve too much out from in between, it will look funny. So here is a shot of the teeth after trimming: and after painting: So, re-winding a bit, I masked off the areas to be painted. I like to airbrush the traps and rank areas to get a brush mark free surface. After it dired just a bit, I removed the tape. The only drawback with airbrushing is the clean-up. Typically, I will use the array of templates to guide me in the shape of things. With the recesses being so pronounced I just needed to trace them with a pencil. Now is detail time. I am on a new diet and fairly shaky. The results didn;t come out as true as I like but they are acceptable so far. I need to give the tears and teeth a little time to dry before doing the detail painting there so I cut the new screens for the hovi tips More updates as I have them.

Hey Greg. I don;t know how it would work with the spray in liner. I suppose that you could spray it in first then lay down a piece of the cheesecloth and tap it in with a brush. Make sure you spray some bed liner on the brush because the brush will grab onto the cheesecloth and pull it out. You want to dab the brush not pull it across the surface.

I didn;t remove anything. If you look at the pics of the new cap mounting holes on the face sides, the holes are set slightly farther back than the originals. This pulled the brow line of the cap MUCH closer to the face making the fit nice and tight. I will be posting paint progress pics later today and you will see how little gap there is now between the cap and face. CRAP! I didn't take a pic of the teeth before I started. Can someone here do that!!??

Did't Greedo have high heels?

Looking forward to this!!

The screws for the lens mounts I was able to get at a hockey shop. They have bunches of them in their repair shops. If they don't, they can order them. As for the teeth,mi just opened up the bottom portion of the tooth openings. The teeth are still recessed just opened up a bit farther on the bottom.

The crinkle finish is not by any means required. This type of finish was applied to selected Sterlings. If you choose that you want to apply it, It is called VHT and it's available at Advance Auto or on line. It is glossy black, though. After I let it dry for 24 hours, I went back and top coated it with a very dark gray. I chose flat from Model Masters and darkened it with semi-gloss black until I liked the color then airbrushed the entire blaster. The pistol grip was gloss black automotive paint. Needs to be durable. The bolt I painted with the same gray I used for the body before I darkened it. I added a couple drops of brass to give the metallic look. The tracking strips I did with rub-n-buff so they looked extra polished.

As for strengthening the overall helmet itself, I have relied on Plasti-dip with cheesecloth embedded into it then another layer on top. Because this helmet is so thin, I might go with three layers just to give it more strength. Here is an example what two coats looks like.

The head of the pan head screw is JUST SHY of 6mm. The screws on this screen used Thermal Detonator look to be a very comparable size.

Thank you guys. There are no electronics...that work anyway. I replaced my home router and ripped the old one apart. I stole a couple sections of circuit board and then a smaller strip to hid the screw that are holding on the magazine well. Here are some comparison shots of "Todd's" on the left and Wannwangas on the right. You can see that Todd's are SLIGHTLY wider and just a bit beefier.

Looking forward to your build, Christina! "goof off" worked best for me when removing the transfers.

My daughter will be getting the new Anovos Armor. Provided she keeps doing well in school. Anyway, During our wait for her armor to arrive, I built her blaster. It was a DOOPY PIPE KIT. I needed to get an acrylic receiver tube (Thank you usaeatt2!!), scope, scope rail, and counter. I bought a Sterling kit from APEX a while back. I took molds of many of the inadequate parts to apply to her blaster like the bolt/charging handle, the front sight, the lock ring track for the butt cap, the hinge mount for the folding stock. I also acquired a resin barrel replica also made by usaeatt2 (Aaron Trebel) This made it possible to incorporate many real parts into her build. I used the folding stock, butt cap, front barrel screws, and the inner spring althouigh I needed to cut it down because it was way too much pressure for the plastic parts. I also applied the crinkle finish. This might not be entirely accurate to the film, but it gives an authentic look to the finish many Sterlings had. ANYWAY!!! This thread is not so much about the blaster as it is about a suplier for affordable, accurate T-Tracks. If this was repeated I apologize. Earlier this year, I was blessed to receive a set of T-Tracks from a fellow trooper as a gift for helping him out. They are from http://www.toddscostumes.com/costume-supplies/star-wars-prop-builders-supplies/star-wars-prop-makers-t-strips/. Kit #4 is what we want and it is $24!! These were awesome to work with!!! the heated evenly, bent perfectly, and I needed to trim the sides to fit in the vent holes properly but was able to fine sand them down so the cut marks didn't show. First pics are of my Daughter's blaster and the T-Track pics and measurements are below.

Thanks, guys! The polishing was just good strong elbow grease. I don't think I would have the confidence to use a rotary buffer of any kind. The plastic on this helmet is very thin and too much power can build heat that might warp or even melt the plastic.

I use Meguilars automotive rubbing compound. Novus polish also works very well

Nice work so far. It's really coming along!!! A couple things that you will need a little touch up on. First, your frown pain should be limited to the teeth alone. The way you have it is more like ROTJ. Secondly, the details on the helmet for the exception of the ear rank bar area were all decals. Front, rear traps, tears and tube stripes were all decals that you can purchase here:https://trooperbay.com/esb-helmet-decals.html

Stop...you're embarrassing me

Ok, we all know the things we like and dislike about the new Anovos helmets. I know they were going for replicating a specific helmet they saw in the archives but I still like my ears to have as little gap as possible. This is going to be a challenge because of how much they already removed. I am also particular about hand painted details so I need to do some transfer stripping. This helmet is paper thin. The ears are, too! Clearly NOT the same thickness of plastic used on the body armor. First the disassembly: The first thing I noticed was that the ear screws were the kind we are all looking to use on the thermal detonators. They are flat bottom, pan head slotted screws. Because Anovos provided wedge head phillips screw for the TD, I will replace those with the helmet screws and replace the helmet screws with the correct angled screws. After removing the hovis, I am going to swap out the fine mesh screen with the better stuff on the right. Nice hovi tips, though. Well done. No markings on the side, but well done. Anyway, I am also going to swap out the brow trim. Their brow trim was too loose and cut to mimic that trooper whos brow trim ended within the trapezoid. I like going to the ends. Just my preference. I will use the UK -US52 trim seen on the right. It is almost identical but just a tad less shiny and tighter fitting to grab the brow. With the helmet apart, I can start stripping the transfers. I only found two things that took them off: alcohol and goof off. The goof off required a little elbow grease, but worked much quicker. With the helmet clean, I can start trimming. First I opened up the eyes a bit. Then started work on cleaning up the tooth openings and making the recessed ones on the right side (as you are looking at the face) a little larger. While I had the face exposed, it was a good time to polish it. Note the reflections of the twin bulb worklight. and after polishing: At this time, I also constructed the lens mounts from the hockey helmet screws. After building a stack of scrap ABS around each and some trimming I glued them in place. I used the provided lens material to make individual lenses. I removed the lenses and set them aside. I needed to lower the main cap on the face slightly so the ear position would move down as well. I cut my new piece of brow trim and tried several positions on the helmet before settling on one I was happy with. I am happy with this placement. I removed the temporary screws and riveted down the cap at the ears and around the cheek. I got to work on the delicate job of re-trimming the ears out. The round portion was already thin so I had to really watch how much I took out. I was not entirely happy with the right ear, but it was a lot better than it was. The left one came out a bit better. Painting is next!!!