gazmosis

That's the ticket, Andrew!! Thanks for getting this done SO fast. I guess it pays to live close to the source!!! Congratulations on this great, officially Centurion armor!! If you felt up to it, that same side has just a tad extra material that could be removed eventually. If you are a thinner guy and want to snug it up a bit, the red lines are my suggestions to what could be trimmed. Congratulations!!!

Your Slave fire should already be good to go in regards to the "disk" (which is just above the hand grip) and the port cover is the square box just above it. (Actually the feed port cover) As for the cocking handle, you see it plainly see it here:

Just don;t go willy nilly, James. You don;t want to pick any material. One of the main issues that comes with the belt is its ability to support the holster AND E-11 without severe droopage. Many of the belts nowadays have a plastic insert that serves as support. You can build internal support by using certain materials that not only give structure, but make it easier to sew. The originals were made from 5 layers; 3 internal layers, denim twill on the outside and satin on the inside. You don;t necessarily HAVE to use those materials, though. "Canvas" is also known as duck cloth at most fabric stores. You will also want to pick up some interfacing. This is essentially fabric glue in sheet form. It comes in many forms by you want the iron and peel kind. First you need to measure how long this needs to be. Measure around your armor and take into consideration about 4 inches of overlap in the back. Cut your 5 layers of fabric. These need to be kind of exact. Your final belt should measure no wider top to bottom than 3 inches. Cut 4 strips of the interfacing to match. Start with the inner 3 layers. Grab your iron and iron one of the interfacing strips to a layer. The adhesive melts fairly quickly so you don;t need a ton of time or a SUPER hot iron. Peel away the paper backing and lay the next layer of fabric on top and iron that. Take the third layer and iron the interfacing on that FIRST. Peel the paper off and lay this, adhesive side down, onto your other two layers and iron all three until they are attached. Stitch these three layers together on the sewing machine. NOTE: This adhesive is just made to help you hold the material from slipping and gives a little body to the material. It's NOT a super stick adhesive like a liquid glue. Iron a strip of interfacing to each of the last two layers. Iron those to each side of the 3 inner layers and stitch together. Add 4 inches of velcro and you're done. You don;t need any fancy binding stitching. The duck cloth WILL fray slightly. That's OK. It was like that in the film. But you can mix some White glue with a bit of water and paint it on the edge to minimize this.

Double check your shoulder bells, though. Don;t let those wander too far from the ribbed bridges.

Nice work so far, Todd!!!

try troopergear@gmail.com They make TX armor and might be willing to sell you just the Therm Det

I am truly blessed. Thank you, Eric for the consideration to keep me on board. It's an honor to have the chance to look at the artistry of the greatest troopers in the Legion.

Those thighs are works of art, young man!! You had asked earlier if the issue with the bottom of the thigh back was normal. With all lineages of TE armor it is. Remember that your armor was derived from a ROTJ suit which was molded to be overlap construction. That is the reason for the difference. Most people end up cutting all that off anyway so you dont get pinched in the back of your knee

First, this is not the screen used method. That was acetate sheets with an adhesive strip on both sides. Second, the interior of the helmets can be done using any method a trooper wants. As long as the achieved look from the outside is accomplished, the interior has no restrictions.

Awesome...just awesome!!!!

That's a good one, John. People have used those or glued together a small stack of scrap ABS pieces. Either one will work, but you want to drill those screw holes BEFORE you glue them into the helmet. One little slip and the drill bit will come through the faceplate.....NOT GOOD

The CRL change regarding overlap construction was made well over a year ago. A certain grace period is allowed for a short time after a CRL change, but because of the time that has already passed, any armor, regardless of when it was bought/built will need to recognize this build method. This doesn't mean in any way, Pete, that you should not be proud of your armor. It is EIB certified, you look fantastic and anyone in your Garrison should be proud to troop beside you. I would not look at this as a setback or a disappointment.

Fantastic alignment. You still have some to trim off the side of the cod, butt and crotch tabs, but armor on, young man!!

Just make sure you build this with butt jointed construction.

I will work on finding out additional information regarding this. Did you make a build thread?

Nice work!

The notch was part of the original suit. It really served no purpose as in improving function or movement. Perhaps it was a mistake? Who knows. This detail was often hidden behind the drop box. Some suits had it more prominent and some less, but it was always there

Hey there Pete!! Thank you for your application for Centurion. I know you have done some changes and upgrades to get to this point and I thank you for that. So let's take get to it. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required photos have been posted. In regards to the aspects of the Centurion badge, we have a few things to discuss: First I wanted to touch on the wrist opening of your forearms. They are not supposed to have any return edge. This includes into the square indent ridge as seen here: I am concerned about this detail on YOUR forearms with the first square indent being so close to the opening. Typically, this is not the case. I would like to see no return edge at all here, but if it means cutting into that first indent, then you can just leave it. Second. Prior to every write up, I jot down a ton of notes so I won't forget to type anything up. Well.........I wrote this point in my notes by never added it to the "Centurion Suggestions" section of your EIB application. This has to do with the trap and tear decals on your helmet. These must be hand painted or use the "hand painted" look decals. Note: the Centurion Suggestion section of EIB applications is provided as a guide for certain details. The trooper is ultimately responsible for the details on his/her armor. We will need to talk in depth regarding this next topic. Centurion badges require the application of many additional specific details to be present on a trooper's armor. As a result, there are many more required photos to show things that might not appear clearly on EIB applications. In reviewing the pics of the wrist side of your forearm for the return edge topic, I am seeing evidence of overlap construction. When I went back to review your EIB application regarding the helmet decals, I spotted evidence in your bicep as well. It is unfortunate, but all two piece armor parts (Biceps, greaves, thighs and forearms)must be constructed by the butt joint coverstrip method on ANH and ESB armors. Overlap construction is not allowed. I hope I am just seeing things. Please provide some additional photographs of the interior of these parts so I can clearly see which type of construction you used. IF it is overlap, Just let me know.

That's not that much. You should be able to re position your back plate up and eliminate the overlap

Armor currently under review

The measurement to consider is around your midsection at your belly button.

Andrew is right, Pet. Can you post that thigh attachment pic, please.

Wait till you have the ears in place so you can trim the neck opening to match the bottom of the ears for a smooth look once the neck trim is installed. Remember also, you will need to get "S" trim for the opening yo replace the "U" trim that comes with the helmet. I definitely agree regarding taking more out of the teeth and eyes

This addition to the Centurion CRL was was added recently so only applications older than a few months ago were passed without it. If you are careful, it will look great. If you wanted to take it up a notch, get a hobby iron and make return edges to really give it that pre molded look. Or Terrell can just ad it to the mold

Hey Clark! Thank you for your application for Centurion and the chance to view the always appealing RS suit. So let's get to it. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos to review have been posted. The main points of the CRL have been demonstrated on your build. However, on rare occasion, there is a situation where there is a detail that is present on the applicant's armor that was historically never present on the original suits and as a result, a correction was asked to be made. There are two on your armor. The first and easiest one is the white paint on your crotch hardware. This needs to be removed. The second are the left side ab/kidney rivets. This is one of the most referenced photos from our own gallery of the rivet placements: If the side rivets are not perfectly placed from top to bottom, but evenly placed across from each other to maintain a balanced and consistent look to the armor, it would be acceptable. I believe that on your AB, you nailed the locations. Unless it has changed, RS has dimples on the ab side of the seam to mark the rivet locations so it is pretty hard to make a mistake there. The kidney rivets are then just placed directly across from them. This is your side as it appeared in the application. I marked with a red circle the approximate location of the top rivet and the middle rivet is not even present. I re-did the picture with the kidney rivets as they should be across from the ab ones. Your armor is incredible on so many levels. These adjustments will make the package complete and the Centurion badge yours.