pandatrooper

Flatten them out more, they should be a more even thickness. Right now they are thicker at the top of the disk than the bottom

Looks much better. Expect my invoice in the mail.

Hand painted = screen accurate, takes longer to do. <br><br> Decals = less accurate, fast to apply, gets the job done quickly.<br><br> Hand painted details or decals that look hand painted are required for Centurion level.

You need to cut off the areas I indicated here in red, and drill the holes where the blue dots are. There might be a gap, but it doesn't matter. The ears cover it.

You should look on the customsabershop forums or FX sabers forums. Lots of people used to do that when it was the only option.<br><br> Instead of using an Ultrasabers Obsidian sound board, you could use a Nano Biscotte which is $65.<br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P806.aspx'>http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P806.aspx</a>

One side sticks further back than the other. I can't recall which but one side "just" has room for one rivet leaving a gap from front to back. Check my build thread.<br><br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14806-how-to-assembling-ata-abs-helmet-1/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14806-how-to-assembling-ata-abs-helmet-1/</a><br><br> Just line up the eyes evenly and clamp it in the ear area, and drill the upper bolt hole for the ears on each side.

Plenty of feedback here<br><br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23392-wwworiginalstormstroopercom-hit-or-miss/?p=294450'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23392-wwworiginalstormstroopercom-hit-or-miss/?p=294450</a>

I'm not understanding why you would want to do this? The original armor had cover strips,it wasn't a smooth seam like clone armor.I can't see this method passing basic 501st standards.<br><br> The 501st still allows overlap construction but its not much harder to do butt joints.

There's several makers currently developing fan made versions of the EP vii troopers. Check the RPF.

Just use Bikerscout shoulder bells

Glad this is still a useful tutorial.

Use elastic, not webbing.

http://io9.com/so-you-want-to-join-the-empire-building-stormtrooper-a-1718805318 I replied trying to correct some of his misinformation. I wish writers like this would take some time to research the proper info. With all the resources on here, it's not that hard.

Just sharing some info / research. For chroming, there's basically 3-4 options. Most have been explored heavily by various 3PO builders. 1. Vac metalizing: spray the surface with a special coating, hang the parts in a vaccum chamber, melt a small piece of aluminum and the particles stick to the surfaces. Still needs a protective coat or heating to cure and protect it. Some methods don't use heating but they can chip easily. Cost $$$ 2. DIY version using Alcad chrome paint with an airbrush. Used on model airplanes, etc. Labor intensive but not as shiny as vac metal Cost $ 3. Cosmichrome or spectrachrome or other silver nitrate variants: this is the "Spray on chrome" that you see on many cars, bikes etc. Its a chemical reaction with a base coat that causes a thin layer of silver. Can have different colored top coats to yield gold, bronze, etc. More durable than vac metal, but about 90% the reflectivity. Cost is $$$ to $$$$$ depending on the prep required. One more option I'd suggest is Alsa stretch chrome vinyl. You can heat it and bend it to shape. It wouldn't work on a helmet or detailed greeblies since it needs to conform to somewhat smooth surfaces, but perhaps it's a more cost effective alternative and if it chips or scratches, you can peel it off and put a new layer wrap on! I've never tried it but I know some people who have. Unsure of cost. ----------------

I would add that depending on the material, some people might be allergic to rubber or certain synthetics for the ribbed undersuit. Yes, you Would wear an under armour underneath for comfort but this isn't unlike Darth Maul contacts. You don't have to have them for medical reasons.

I was going to suggest the same thing. Don't worry about protecting the sculpt. Just use silicone as a mold. You could do a mother mold on top. I've used smooth on silicone and then plastipaste as the mother mold.

What do you mean by encase it? Do you want a thin coating or do you want a negative mold?

I guess this is going to be a touchy situation, at least on these forums. RS: "Hey, you guys scanned OUR suit! That's recasting!" Anovos: "Actually, that's LFL's suit, which makes it our suit. We licensed it".

I wonder if the inside is laminated with fuzzy felt like material (since they say the parts are lined), then the under suit has spots of hook Velcro for attaching the parts. I assume this is less fussy and more cost effective for manufacturing.

I know people are saying it looks like RS because of certain details. But given today's easily accessible technology, couldn't any of the LFL suits have been 3D scanned from the inside, 3D models made, cleaned up (or sanitized per the 3D artist), then 3D printed to create molds / bucks? This is very common now in Hollywood type fx, so many things are scanned and printed. Even on the RPF people are doing this with gear at home.

I just had a thought. Obviously this is a move to make armor more accessible to people. Sure, there was Rubies and Efx etc. but they were poor on quality or accuracy or catered to collectors for use as display statues, etc. From a legal standpoint, does this "help" Lucasfilm / Disney in future legal battles with the like of SDS etc.? Now they have an accessible and available maker that can out price the likes of SDS etc. My other fear is would this put Disney in a position to legally go after hobby armor makers? There's been a decent number of legal pursuits, cease and decist etc, on ebay, the RPF etc. for properties like Spider-man, Iron Man etc. I hope this isn't the case. I think there will always be a need for specialists armor makers as some fans may want something specific like screen lineage, or other details that Anovos might not be able to provide.

Does anyone know if their production kit has any screen lineage, or is it a new sculpt / 3d model etc.?

Congrats Eric!

Crazy! If LFL got word, wouldn't AA be in deep again? I thought he couldn't sell in North America?

Heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun. Then press down some duct tape and quickly peel it off. Repeat the process until the residue is gone.