pandatrooper

I use a Plano XXL storage box. It's on the smaller side but works for me. It has wheels but I use a simple folding dolly to make tea sport easier. This is how I pack it.<br>

Lining the entire helmet with Velcro will also make it very hot inside. It will act like insulation. Totally up to you and the climate where you live / troop.

Put a strip of insulation foam along the inside edge.

Mask it. Plastidip is designed to be peeled off so any chance you give it, it will peel.

I just wanted to share / reiterate that the molds / bucks were milled out of aluminium. Per the Anovos newsletter several months back.<br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=d364b6e2ca1099fb0335fbecd&id=a995a5acf2&e=e4236154b5'>http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=d364b6e2ca1099fb0335fbecd&id=a995a5acf2&e=e4236154b5</a><br><br> "We decided to have the bucks milled in Aluminum to avoid degradation of the molds". The pictures in the newsletter show a helmet milled from aluminium.<br><br> I don't have the link handy but Anovos showed some behind the scenes production videos of the armor being made in China. I recall seeing Aluminum molds in the manufacturing process.<br><br> For those not familiar with the process:<br><br> 1. Create a 3D model in the computer (Cad file etc.)<br> 2. File is used as the data to CNC mill the shape out of Aluminum<br> 3. Finished CNC form is used as a vacuform mold.<br><br> Prior to step 1, a 3D modeller creates the model from scratch or can use a 3D scan point cloud or newer photogrammetry style data to use as a base. A point cloud has far to much noise in the form / data to mill from it directly, so a model needs to be cleaned up or modelled from scratch but using the scan / point cloud as a guide.<br><br> Back to the debate of if they recast RS or not, I can't be sure - not like I worked on it. <br><br> BUT: If some people can identify that some parts are clearly RS, and Anovos did claim they used reference from " private collections" it could be likely they 3D scanned portions of an RS suit and used the point cloud as reference.<br><br> So yes, it might have been "reworked" and cleaned up, but if the tells are there then they used RS.<br><br> Now we get into the debate of "does taking a scan, modelling from scratch but using point cloud reference of the original constitute re asting?" Some on the RPF say yes, some say no. <br><br> If it's in poor taste for the fan community to do it, it's even worse if a licensee does it (in my personal opinion).

Have you already done a test fit on your body first? You should make sure everything fits before making a critical cut.

Looks pretty legit. The clamp lever is solid, the clamp lettering looks correct as does the pommel lettering.<br><br> There's a few tells with the screws I can't make out due to the resolution of the photos.<br><br> Here's a good link to refer to.<br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=144206'>http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=144206</a>

I did it the lazy way, soaked it in hot salt water for 30 mins then rinsed it, hung dry. It's never faded or rubbed off.

I found this older video I shot but forgot to upload on how I pack my bin. I just added it to my video channel on Youtube. Hope this helps! Also, I didn't line the box but I just dropped in a small thin carpet / rug inside the bottom of the bin. Prevents any scratches etc. I'm sure just about anything would work but a piece of 1/2" foam or yoga would work too. Just avoid PVC based items as they can off gas (I used to store my gear in a new soccer bag that was lined with PVC and the corners of the armor yellowed where it contacted the sides of the bag.

Nest your pieces. Forearms inside the shins Shins inside thighs Thighs inside your torso. Place it all in the bin. Chest goes over the torso, belt goes around the torso. I nest the boots near the butt, and put the biceps and shoulders above the torso. I usually nest my E-11 inside one forearm. Depending on the size of the bin, you can sometimes fit your helmet in and put your undersuit, neckseal, amp and gloves in your helmet.

Rubbing alcohol on a smooth cloth will take it off safely.

His issue wasn't so much the trapped air inside, it was that the cap was fitting too tight and he attempted to soften the cap but overheated the it instead of warming it up. It got twisted and warped, but no biggie. All fixed!

The new armor doesn't bother me that much. Yes, the detailed builders like us notice the differences but the general public won't.<br><br> I am surprised they didn't reach out to the costuming fan community like they did for TFA and the R2 builders. They could have had access to more accurate builds and feedback.<br><br> As someone who has been on TV and commercial sets ADing shoots, I can understand them wanting to make things more comfortable, faster costume changes, safety for stunts etc.

Thanks for sharing your insights, Paul. I know parts were subbed in on the RS suit but I don't recall which ones. A handful of our local garrison recruits purchased Anovos suits. Many have complained about the short shoulder armor bridges. I've never seen your armor in person, but are the shoulder straps supposed to be as short as Anovos has them?

Not if you set the dye properly.

With your size and build, RT mod would have been more suitable as it was designed for bigger troopers.<br><br> You could separate the ab and cod but I wouldn't stretch it by 3 inches. That's a big gap and would change the proportions of the kit significantly.

What armor make do you have?

While Anovos and RS seem very similar, keep in mind there's some lineage. RS is straight up as legit as you can get, as they cast most of the pieces from an original Sandtrooper suit. Missing pieces were substituted or made. Anovos claims they had access to an original suit from Lucasfilm. No one seems to be clear. But they did show they had CNC aluminum molds made. Which makes me think they 3D scanned an original from the archives suit or as some might say, they scanned an RS props suit. Some say the details are too close and that there are tells there are RS parts. Either way, Anovos ended up with a 3D model that likely needed adjustment in 3D before it was milled out for forming. Unless someone worked really fast in recasting an Anovos suit (possible) it's likely this is a recast of RS. Where did you get it from and who was the seller? Ebay?

I would assemble everything before you do any additional trimming. It's all about how everything fits together, so unless you have the legs built and the torso, and undersuit and boots fitted, I wouldn't trim anything just yet. Depending on how much you need to trim, you could remove some from the bottom of the shins, cut notches in the shin and thigh backs and worst case trim the thigh tops, but you'll lose the return edge unless you add it back in.

Here's what I noticed so far: Overall - everything looks more chunky and symmetrical, less fitted and curvy / sculpted - The cover strip areas seem to be overlapped and the strips themselves look wider in appearance. Helmet - the cap to back line is very sharp, might even be separate? Back - very sharp and "boxy" sharp edges to the OII box - shoulder straps have an angled receptacle molded in - there's a snap visible just past that receptacle Chest - chest to back has a black connecting piece underneath (plastic?) it's shiny in one shot Kidney - angled slot opening on the side? - the back box or raised area seems to look like a separate piece - not very "curvy", it's very straight and FX like Belt - is solid belt instead of canvas - there's no angled cuts on the corners - Thermal detonator looks different in details, the O button is bigger and sharply pronounced etc. - thermal det looks rotated lower, and no visible straps - end caps have a grey center - belt has a separate swivel opening on the side closure - drop boxes don't have visible elastics Shoulders - look very FX and round / cylinder like, there's not much swoop to them Biceps - open on the underside Forearms - shape is very straight - they seem to open underneath too Hand guards - have a much sharper slope to the thumb side Ab / cod - the cod is very V shaped and angled from the front (probably for ease of movement) - in the explosions, the cod and butt aren't strapped together but perhaps thats for stunt safety? Thighs - totally different shape - there's a notch on the outside, but the inner top is very round / tube end at the top - lower edge shape is different - thigh ammo strip is mounted higher up Shins - shape is quite different - some have notches cut out in the back - knee plate sticks out Boots - they look like they have a tan sole with a pattern molded in

Many new recruits came out, along with 7 TKs being built at the same time! <br><br> Many thanks to CoasterTK for hosting!<br><br>

On canvas pouches? Black liquid RIT dye over the green pouch.

You can check the c3po builders forum for makers of hands / fingers.<br><br> Chrome wise, you can airbrush Alclad II for the chrome and clear coat it. You can also use silver nitrate spray, more setup costs. Lastly, you could pay to have silver nitrate coating done professional or look into vacuum metal process (most expensive but shiny).<br><br> Phasma is actually a duller chrome finish which is easier to achieve.

Watch the troopers in A New Hope. A good number of them have notches cut out of the backs of thighs and shins.

Looks just fine