pandatrooper

Hi Alexandra. Yes, you cut the orange tip off. The mod kit comes with a new muzzle. For the holes, you can use car bondo (not spot putty). Just make sure to sand the holes / area before covering them so that the bondo sticks. You can buy T-rack from a few sellers here, but I just make it myself. I cut some narrow strips of 2mm styrene and glue them into a T shape using Plastic Weld adhesive. A few ingenious people have also used screen sliding door tracks, and outdoor rakes. Those are good options too. BTW: here's my Hasbro mod thread if you want to see how I modded mine. ---------

I've been "slashed" a few times by kids with lightsabers. I actually don't care about scuffs on the armor, but kids need to understand that we are volunteers and it's very disrespectful to "bash away" at bad guy Stormtroopers! Handlers will give them warnings if they're too aggressive, and explain that it's dangerous - and communicate back to the kids parents that it's not a good thing to do. Our handlers and spotters also do a great job of helping to hand out PR flyers, because doing it with gloves on while holding blasters is sometimes difficult.

I think it will work fine for you, you won't need to trim as much as me. Even though it's a fan sculpt and does not have any "screen lineage", i think it's a great kit for trooping since it's very durable, very shiny and an "idealized" TK look. I have an ATA kit that I'm building up for a more screen accurate TD look. Plus you can assemble the AM kit as easy or as complex as you want. I think this build was more complex, but I could have also easily just trimmed it to size and trooped in it. You don't have to do all the fancy return edges or butt join / cover strips if you don't want to. It was designed with overlap assembly in mind, this build sort of took it a few steps further. IMO, kits like AP and the thigh and shin alignment issues are harder to fix (correctly) than assembling an AM kit.

My friend in the garrison is assembling a TX for his wife . I don't really follow the EU stuff much, but they have asked me for some help so am happy to oblige. Are the construction methods / details pretty much the same as a TK stunt, other than "pretty much use black for everything"? I've taken a look at the CRL and nothing jumps out at me as being overly different. Thanks T.

Ah, thanks for pointing that out. You can read up on it in my build thread. The AM kit shins were made with the molded edges on the wrong side. The "ridges" should have been molded on the outer shin, but they were instead molded on the inner shin. I'm not sure why they approached it that way. Regardless, on my build - my shins were slim enough to not need the ridge at all. I cut it off so that that both sides of the shin backs have no ridges. I trimmed them to size, and glued half the cover strip on the outer shin piece. Added some velcro, and that was it. If you can't do this, don't assemble the shin armor "inside out" just to get the ridges on the outside. It's important that you retain the shape and have the proper orientation for the pieces. Keep the ridge on the inside, and glue the cover strip on the outer shin. No one will know.

No problem. There's several good threads on painting techniques. one thing that's been brought up is making sure that you're painting in good weather conditions when using Rustoleum. Temperature and humidity play a big part in how the final finish looks.

You should sand it if you want paint to stick. Some troopers that build TD’s don’t sand and only paint one coat, so that it chips and looks weathered. I would: - Sand the surface (you don’t even need sandpaper, a proper grit Scotchbrite pad will work) - Wash with detergent / rinse / dry - Primer - Top coat white (several light coats) - Wet sand / polish if you want it glossy.

My closure in the back of the shins is pretty common. The back is a butt seam (not joined) with the cover strip glued to the outer shin. It just closes over my shin and is secured with velcro. Some people leave them without velcro to just clamshell shut. Others use elastic and hooks, etc. Here's a couple useful threads for you: The Academy page tutorials for leg assembly http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/thighsshins.html Thread on shin closures http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9909

I stand corrected! Thanks Paul. The RT armor is a good choice too, but it's scaled up for bigger troopers. You're just a hair taller than some of the people that use TE2 and AP and other ROTJ tour suit derived armor, but people have done it. In terms of sizing, I think AM would be bigger in size, and RT one step bigger.

Is AM a good kit for a beginner like me? Yes. One of the best aspects is that it comes fully trimmed, no other kit comes trimmed. It still needs to be fitted to your body size, but it sounds like you’re the right size for one. What is a good helmet to compliment this suit? I would say TE2, AP or ATA (painted to match) or TM. If AM is not the best what would you recommend instead? You shouldn’t really refer to it as the “best†kit. The best kit is the one that suits your needs. What things is AM not good for? Some parts are very big (hand plates, shoulder bells, etc.), and not very screen accurate. The chest and back still really bug me, they are much bigger and the shape and proportions could be tuned to better match the screen look. The helmet is still the FX helmet with a new dome. The armor is also an off-white color. Where as AP and others are "white". That other materials do I need to finish the armor kit other then tools, undersuit, gloves, neckseal, etc...? Undersuit Gloves Neck seal Boots (TKboots.com or caboots) Canvas belt Tandy line 24 snaps 1/8†rivets Industrial Velcro Sandpaper 1.5†elastic for suspenders, harness, connecting armor bits Drill Dremel would be handy Curved Lexan scissors (for trimming RC car bodies, found at hobby stores) Exacto knife Long metal ruler for cutting cover strips E-6000 adhesive (Michaels has it) Paint for the helmet details Mesh for the teeth Foam for the helmet Green lens for the eyes (if the helmet doesn’t come with them) Any other advice? We really need to hook up, you know I live in Vancouver, right? I have an AM kit and an ATA, and an AP helmet you can check out. Here’s a couple of my builds AM build -------- ATA build -------- Try to come out to our next troop in late Sept. and you can check things out. Please don't rush into buying anything. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

It's on the Star wars.com site, and it's a quicktime VR 360 view http://www.starwars.com/fans/events/celebration_v/pano/sljabba/index.html

Fantastic work as always Pete! Truly amazing work, I can't say enough. The details are staggering. Many kudos to you!!!

The back shouldn't have much "wingage". As suggested, the screen used look had very little sticking out. For the sides, I would say start with where the seam is for the kidney / ab section (which is sort of a vertical line separating the ab and kidney 50 / 50). In most pics, I have found that the chest "wing" is almost touching that seam, or about an inch short of it. It's somewhat inconsistent as it was sized differently for different people, but I think most troopers in the film have it approx. there.

The custom garters for the thighs I made for the build and offered for sale look like this: More details here, but I don't have a run going currently. Feel free to make your like this if you wish. - Adjustable belt can fit waist sizes up to 42 inches (*note: those that need suspenders can use low cost "clip on elastic" suspenders for dress pants. Super easy to find at a dollar store.) - Fastex secure buckle closure - The garters are "V" style, the thigh armor will stay in place very nicely (no floppage!). One end of the V is permanently sewn / bar tacked, the other end is adjustable. - The garters are fully adjustable for length (waist to thigh), and also adjustable for position on the belt (put them as close or far apart as you like, make the V as narrow or wide as you like, whatever fits your body / armor). - The webbing end tabs that go inside the thigh armor are triple thick where the snap is, the ends are bar tacked and the entire tab is box stitched for strength. These are strong. The end tab comes with 1 snap already mounted, using a Tandy Line 24 female snaps (as most people use these). I've simplified the design to 1 snap since most people don't use 2 positions anyways.

Happy birthday Aaron!

Happy Birthday on your very special day, Paul! Thanks for all your contributions!

Hi Alex, I assume you've already read the info here? Getting Started I have since built 2 sets of armor from ABS, I have an AP helmet and I have completed an ATA build but not trooped it (lots of test fittings though). Styrene is definitely softer than ABS, it has different properties. I think it will stand up fine to trooping, take a look at how many people have ATA, TE2, etc. Personally, I think unless you are stressing the plastic in very specific areas (eg: trying to sit down all the time, or if one area like the inner thigh or knee areas are tight and keep "binding" with other pieces when you're wearing it or if you're compressing it a lot) I think styrene will handle trooping just fine. I do tend to be more careful with it when handling it, but I have no problems bumping into things (my basement entry is small and I've been going in and out of my garage and I bump into stuff all the time during test fittings). There's also tips on the forum on ho to repair cracks or even prevent them (by adding material glued underneath). Keep in mind that with styrene, if you want it shiny you'll either need to paint it or polish it to get it glossy. It's an extra step, and I think that's where you may find more wear and tear on your armor. It's natural and WILL happen. Many people like the slightly worn look as it's what would happen in real life, and was seen in the movies. Most people live with scuffs and dings and it provides character. On the other hand, my ABS (AM) kit is quite glossy without being painted and I'm not afraid of throwing it into my storage bin with no padding (yet) and it's survived troops just fine. Any marks or scuffs I get from painted blasters, etc. I can leave on, or simply wipe / buff away with a cloth and some alcohol (I tend to get a lot of thin black streaks on my left side from my arms rubbing up against my painted blaster). Personally, I think if you want to just build a kit and have it stay looking glossy without much maintenance, go for the AP kit. Keep in mind there is more work with aligning the thighs and shins, and the inner left shin is the same as the outer right. The arms are also the same (there's no left and rights). The mic tips are also faucet aerators which won't pass for EIB should you want to. If you don't mind painting your kit, can live with some dings and wear your scratches with pride (you could always polish / touch them up / re-paint a part), and don't mind the odd repair due to cost savings, then go ATA.

Personally, I have some have arches (my feet) and I like extra support. The TK boots don't have much in the way of arch support, so I stuck in some supportive insoles. I have worn them all day in troops with no problems, just as comfortable as my other shoes.

I'd say AP as well, but understand you may want to upgrade a few things that come with the kit if you intend to go for EIB badge (mic tips, eye lens, etc.). There's also a bit more trimming / fitting / heat molding with AP in the thighs / shins if you want a perfect look. It's a good kit, just good to know what to expect and to plan the work ahead. There's lots of great AP builds on here. Good luck!

I'm right there with you brother! I was reading all of the panels that were being done for costuming, model making, etc. and I was just getting depressed. In another life, that would have been my dream career.

Looking great, nice work trooper! Agreed on the fine tuning comments. Just a few small fixes and you're all set! Nice blaster too!

Don't worry about the extra rivets, I know what you mean. The cap and back was a bit "wider" than the face (or the face was skinnier?) regardless, I popped a couple extra rivets in the well above the cheek tubes on my ATA, to keep it compressed and holding the shape I wanted. Once the ears are on, no one will notice.

You’re probably using too much glue. Sand both sides, and apply the E6000. Spread it out so that the surface is covered, but it doesn’t need to be thick. Also avoid spreading it too thin (to the point where the plastic shows through because you’re spread / scraped away too much). Spread some on the other surface. Let both parts sit for 2 mins or so to let the adhesive set up. The whole idea with contact adhesives if that you’re spreading it into the small scratches from sanding the surface, imbedding the glue. Then when both glued surfaces contact each other, you get a bond. Clamp the parts together, you don’t need to crank it down like a vice, just make sure there is good solid contact and constant pressure for 24 hours.

Hi Clint. The harness / suspender straps are 1.5" webbing. Some people like to use elastic for a little more give and that's what they used for the screen suits, it's up to you. The back end of the suspenders connect to the top of the kidney section (via industrial Velcro. I still like to use Velcro here, as it allows for adjustments in length / comfort), then move up to the back section, and attach to the back at the top of the shoulders via snaps / snap plates. The suspenders pass under the ribbed shoulder straps, and continue down to the AB section, and terminates with suspender fastex clips for easy on / off. I have short sections of elastic sewn to one of the fastex clip, and the bottom is attached to the top of the ab section via industrial Velcro. I have done this on 2 suits with great results during long troops. I sewed a short sternum strap across the chest. This keeps the shoulder bells from swing out. The shoulder bells attach via 1" elastic to the top of the suspenders. The garters for the thighs I custom make myself. I have done a few runs in the past but don't have any going right now. They are V shaped and center the thigh nicely. This isn't screen accurate, I think in the films they used 1 single wide elastic connecting each thigh to the cod armor, but I find that mine work well for trooping purposes. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any questions.

Wow. I am awestruck, that is awesome!!! So wish I could be there. Sigh... maybe in a few years when they do C VI I can attend!