pandatrooper

Greetings troopers! Going forward, (the staff with assistance from FISD members) will be conducting detailed reviews of the various armor makes, to give troopers a better idea of what the specific features and qualities of each kit are. This month, we have chosen to highlight the AM "Armor Master" Lite kit. Armor Master (AM) Lite Kit Armor Highlight and Review by Terry / Pandatrooper FISD Intelligence Officer Armor Master - or AM armor for short - is widely known as a major update to the FX armor commonly used throughout the 501st Legion. The makers have created new molds for practically every piece of armor, culminating in a very complete and fairly easy to build TK, TD, or TX costume. The armor is “fan sculpted†and thus has no screen lineage to any of the movie suits. While some may view this as a negative, the AM kit is very sturdy and recognizable as a “Stormtrooperâ€, making it a great choice for trooping. Completed AM kit ANH style (Tkittell) The armor is made from a slightly off white ABS plastic that is fairly thick, has a very glossy finish and is durable. The kit itself comes in a Full version (with an updated FX helmet that comes with with a new dome and assembly materials like adhesive and velcro, strapping, etc.) or the Lite kit which comes with no helmet or assembly materials, though some elastic and strapping are included. AM armor is one of the two common armor kits that come “pre trimmedâ€, the other being RT-mod. The armor is sculpted to a larger scale than screen lineage armor to accommodate different sized users. RT-mod is slightly larger in scale than AM, making RT-mod the largest sized armor readily available. One of the big advantages of the AM kit is that almost every part is sized to be trimmed down, with longer “wings†or extensions on various sides. This allows the builder to trim off as much material as they need to suit their body type. The kit also comes with printed assembly instructions. Components Abs / Kidney: The Ab and Kidney sections come with extra-long side extensions, so that the user can cut and size each piece to create a torso with no visible gap between the two parts. If your torso is bigger than the parts, you will still need shims. Ab buttons / button plate: the AM kit comes with a separate “button and ridges†plate that can be glued on or held on with custom made aluminum buttons that have bolt threads integrated. Simply drill the appropriate holes and paint the buttons and install them with nylock nuts inside the armor. The 4 button section on the left side is not separate, and is molded in. For sandtroopers, simply leave the ab plate button off and the under detail is correct for a TD costume. Belt armor / rivet covers: the belt armor has square indentations where the rivets or snaps can be installed (to attach the armor to a canvas belt). The rivet covers are somewhat large / deep compared to screen lineage armor. Butt: Unlike the FX armor, the butt is separate from the back plate, which is correct for ANH and ESB suits. The butt and the end of the cod piece have large extended plastic tabs integrated. While some may use this to join the butt and cod, it looks better if these are cut off and an elastic strap with snaps is used in its place. Back: The back is quite large, and incorporates a bigger “box†section and inner detail. It’s not as organic shaped as the screen lineage armor. Chest: The chest is much bigger in size, and has longer shoulder “tabs†extending over the shoulders. The chest is flatter in shape than the curvy screen lineage chest armor. While the “pectoral†areas are sharply defined, this creates less room under the chest plate (compared to screen lineage armor) should the user want to install a chest mounted voice amp. Shoulder straps: These are made a bit longer to accommodate larger sizes Shoulder bells: the shoulder bells are quite long and wide, and have a straighter shape than screen lineage armor. These could be trimmed and modified if necessary. Biceps: the biceps have a more “square†profile than screen lineage armor. Some users have given feedback that the “thumb print†on the inner bicep is too defined. Forearms: these are created extra deep to accommodate different arm sizes. It too is slightly square in profile compared to screen lineage suits. Hand plates: the AM kit comes with several sets of hand plates, enabling you to build an ANH style TK or TD, ESB style TK, or “Cheesegrater†style TD. The ESB plates are formed larger than needed, and can be trimmed to size. The ANH style hand plates are rather large, and may need to be resized. Thighs: The thighs are longer than the previous FX thighs, and have extra material molded in to create a larger overlap or butt seam. These can be trimmed to size. Knee plate / sniper plate: both a TK knee plate and TD sniper plate are included with the kit. Shins: the shins also are created with extra material to be sized for the end user. One error made on the shin design is that the inner shin has a vertical ridge molded into the armor. This would have looked better on the outer shin. Elastic strapping: the included elastic strapping has velcro sewn on the ends. It's advisable to use heavy duty velcro if possible. Drop boxes: they are included in the kit Thermal detonator: the thermal detonator assembles from several parts and doesn’t require a section of PVC pipe to build up as is normal on screen lineage suits. There are also a few sections of chrome vinyl included which some builders do not use. Some prefer to not use the AM base TD parts and use PVC pipe instead for more authenticity. The TD is designed to be riveted to the belt. Conclusion The kit is a great kit, with cost, durability and “idealized†look being major factors. While some may balk at the fact that it doesn’t have any screen lineage to film or tour suit armor this is an aesthetic choice and it is highly suitable for trooping. In terms of accuracy, the kit resembles more of an idealized trooper and is instantly recognizable to the public. The chest, back and shoulder bell pieces stand out as the least accurate compared to what was seen on screen. They still resemble the pieces from the original FX kit in terms of size and shape. These can be modified with trimming and tools such as a heat gun and heat sealing iron. The armor itself can be assembled per the included instructions for a “quick buildâ€. If you were to use ABS adhesive, Velcro strapping and overlap construction, you could easily assemble the Lite armor in a weekend. If you want to build the suit using snap plates, butt seams with cover strips (it can be done) to create a look closer to the films, this could take several days or weeks. Several troopers have built high quality modified versions of the AM kit with great results. Overall, the AM kit is very fun to build. While it’s not as accurate as other kits it’s one of the easiest to build which requires no painting and stands up to trooping very well. Some links to AM kit builds -------------

The chest, shoulders and ab and cod are dead giveaways it's FX.

Looking good, Michael! For the Bondo, you can use a piece of cardboard or a popsicle stick to scoop out as much as you need, then mix in the hardener. For a golf ball sized portion of filler, you only need a pea sized amount of hardener. A little goes a long way. I tend to only mix what I need. Eg: when filling holes, I would dole out maybe a tablespoon and just a drop (half a pea or less?) of hardener. Mix the two together on a piece of cardboard. Do it outside over some newspaper or cardboard to catch any spills, and wear a mask to avoid the fumes (toxic!). Knead both parts together for about 30 seconds until the color is even. Then you can use a popsicle stick or plastic scrap to spread it over whatever your trying to fill. Don't "play" with it too much, otherwise it won't end up even. Overfill you holes slightly, then you can file / Dremel / sand it down. Good luck!

In the BBC forum post, the builder states 18.5" pipe length, that's where I got my dimensions from. I just noticed that in the printed plans, it says 18 3/8" as well. I guess my E-11 is a bit long. I have a simple solution if what we're after is "perfect accuracy" of a Sterling. Make the pipe 20" long, and mock up the pieces and measure the total length. Obviously, it will be longer than an actual Sterling. Then simply do the math and reduce the pipe length to make the total overall length "accurate". I think it just depends on what you're going for: an "as close as possible to the real thing replica" or a troopable prop. For mine, I just made the pipe to 18.5", and my ABS pipe isn't even the accurate diameter (I couldn't find any 40mm PVC pipe in Canada). But for me, it's close enough for trooping and the kids don't notice. There's plenty of other things in the Doopys pipe kit that aren't 100% accurate, but they are close. Those smaller details can be modified and or replaced if necessary.

Wonderful pics guys! You look fantastic, nice height difference too! Thanks for sharing! As stated, all you need is Chewie and some gold colored binders. "This isn't going to work." "Why didn't you say so BEFORE!" "I DID say so before!"

Hi Brandon. I was using an older stunt helmet I had in the photos, but I have an AP now which I'll paint to match the armor better. I've also got an ATA which is HIPS and needs to be painted. Some other options you might consider are: - AP (white ABS) - ATA (white HIPS) - TE2 (white HIPS) - TM (it's actually an off white, and I think he's made them in varying types of plastic but mostly ABS I think) - MRCE (the newer one. Needs some minor modifications, but it's fairly solid)

Yes, they are. And I want a nickel every time someone refers to them by said trademarked name or uses them to hold their comlinks.

Thanks Bill for clarifying! I remember reading a post some where (might have been RPF or here?) where someone bought a screen used pair of boots, and they turned out to be Harrison Ford's TK boots. I think he had the maker / brand name, but like you said - they're probably long out of business.

Looking good so far! There's an article on the Academy site that shows how the back can be attached to the kidney section. http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/ab-and-back.html

Those look fantastic! Do you know how the paint will hold up? I assume even if it cracks and chips in some areas, it will still be authentic to the film look! I've never heard of Loakes, were they one of the original suppliers?

Glad you find this helpful. The AM kit is great for trooping, I love it! You can taper the thighs no problem. I made a thigh assembly tutorial here. http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11563 he key is to make sure you size it properly. With the front of the thigh assembled, wrap the thigh armor around your thigh, and snug up the back at the to and bottom, and make a mark where they overlap. You might find that you need to "squeeze" the bottom of the thigh area more than the top, if you want to taper it more.

Good luck with your build!

The eggsperts do it again! Thanks Bill, very useful guide.

To be honest, it's not that hard. You can assemble a kit like AM in a weekend if you're using ABS adhesive, clamps and velcro to hook it all together. The AM kit even comes with printed step by step instructions! There's also many great build threads of a variety of armor types on this forum. Truth be told: Yes - there are many many many small steps that need to be taken when building armor. But really, the process is: - measure - size it up to your body - measure again to be sure! - trim - sand - glue - clamp - repeat! - string it all together with elastic of some kind. If you really can't assemble it, consider commissioning someone to build it for you. If you're a fairly standard size / weight, and can supply your measurements, kits can be built for you but at a price of course. Building armor properly takes time and practice, and the price of assembly should reflect that.

The current AM helmet is as you described. It's the FX helmet with a new dome. The original FX dome had a very "flat top" and a sharper transition from the sides to the top. The newer one is "rounder". Personally, I wouldn't get that helmet as the face plate is still quite big and there's so many other helmet choices. Armor wise, I love my AM kit. I would say if you want more accuracy in terms of shape, go ATA. It a styrene kit and needs to either be painted or polished since it's a matte finish HIPS styrene plastic. If you want an affordable and shiny idealized TK made of ABS, go AM with a different helmet (people have been using AP, ATA, TE2, MRCE or other helmets to go with them).

Couldn't agree more. He's pretty much "ideal" TK size. I also say go with one of the kits suggested above. I have an ATA, and I love it!

Happy belated birthday Terrell!

To mount the hand plates, you could mount them a few different ways. Here's some (but not all) 1. Velcro them on to your gloves. Sew or glue the velcro to your gloves, stick the opposite velcro on the underside of the handplate = done 2. glue 2 elastic straps to your handplates. One loop around your wrist, one loop around all 4 fingers. The way you have it right now looks painful. 3. The authentic way was to use black rubber dishwashing gloves, and glue on latex hand plates. I came up with another way here. Kind of a variation on number 2 above. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8685 In regards to your blaster, just remove the front one if you want to go ANH style.

Looks fantastic! I love the frayed elastic

Make reservations at the Mon Ami Gabi restaurant at the Paris hotel on the strip. Make it a later dinner (so it's dark outside). Ask to reserve a table outside on the patio with a view of the Bellagio fountain. Your fiance will love it! The lights, the music, the fountain. Very romantic. PS: don't bust out the TK helmet on the street, you'll get swamped by tourists asking for photos.

I used 18.5" per the instructions here from Blaster Builders club. They have the templates too for drilling the holes, etc. http://www.imperial-fleet.com/BBC/community Hope that helps!

I used 400 grit to take the lettering off, and a Scothc brite pad to scuff the plastic for better paint adhesion. Some people like to cover the screw holes used to assemble the blaster (they are mostly on the right side of the blaster). Use car bondo to fill the holes.

TKdueno is correct. I believe Paul / Troopermaster painstakingly measured the parts in photoshop based on stills from the films. These measurements are pretty much the accepted sizes.

Good progress so far! For the forearms, my "top half" and "bottom half" line up at the wrist, but not at the elbow as you can see here. I simply used the cover strip to hid the unevenness / transition between the 2 parts If you look at some of the film images, the tops didn't always line up depending on who assembled them / how careful they were. They simply extended the cover strip beyond the upper edges a bit to hide the transitions. Also, please make sure that your thighs aren't fitting too big. I found a lot of troopers had made their older FX style kits with oversized thighs. Here's a tutorial I wrote a while back for thigh assembly. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=11563 Also, I know the AM kit is designed the way it is, but I never liked the way the ribbed shoulder straps sit. They always look a bit too high / far back for me. I cut off most of the shoulder on the chest plate and mounted the ribbed straps much lower to make it look at least a little closer to the film images. Just some feedback on the cover strips you're using. They look a little jagged. Are they just placeholder? You should use a metal ruler and an exacto blade to "score and snap" to make the cover strips have straight lines. Just looks a lot cleaner that way. It also helps if you round the corners of the cover strips slightly. If you can, make the cover strips 15mm for the arms and 20 for the legs, and 25 for the shin backs.

You might want to search for "Maker of things" feedback in this forum (Ebay armor). It's been discussed many times at length. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=9409&st=0&p=119083&hl=maker%20of%20things&fromsearch=1entry119083 In a nutshell, stay away from that stuff.