pandatrooper

Hi Alex. The kits don't come with instructions, but take a look at some of the build various threads on here for modifying Hasbros, there's quite a few of them. Most people use similar techniques. Make sure to read the CRL / EIB requirements if you intend to build the blaster to apply for your EIB badge. There's also a few new how to's here for the small details to meet EIB requirements http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12507 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12542 In a nutshell: - take the blaster apart - remove the front and back scope ring - remove all screws - sand the lettering off - cut the muzzle off - grind off Hengstler side lower T-track and drill new holes (optional for EIB only) - reassemble blaster - glue on new muzzle - install folding stock via glue / screws - glue on magazine - glue on Hengstler - glue on rear greeblies - add any other greeblies for other versions of the blaster - add T-track (optional) - add a Dring to the back (optional for EIB only) - paint it black (most people use flat or satin) - weather the blaster

Nice work! Thanks for sharing the pics.

Hey Pat, the only issue with putting the MP3 player in your drop box is that you will have to press the buttons by touch. You won't be able to see the MP3 player. I tried something similar for an event with my Ipod touch, but it was really hard to use with gloves on (touch screen - duh!). I bought a cheap MP3 player from Walmart for $20 and it works great. One suggestion I have is to run the wire from your amp in your chest though your arm, and have the wire exit the forearm and strap the MP3 player to your palm. This way you can work the buttons with your thumb and even bring the MP3 player up to your eyes if you need to see what track you need to play. *BTW: Kevin, nice work on those trooper sounds!

If the front hasn't been glued yet, you could use a wider join / cover strip on the front, to make more room at the back. In terms of the "even-ness", I usually use a heat gun and carefully arm up both sides of the armor, and then push the right side, left side down BEYOND the point of where you want it to be. Then cool it down with water, etc. and the shape should be closer to what you want. Repeat those steps until the top is lined up. Hopefully the bottom will line up better. Keep in mind that AP's left inner shin is the same as the right outer shin, so alignment is never perfect. To finish off the back, use an outer shim on the outside of each calf piece. This will hide the velcro much better. Here's a link on shin / thigh assembly if you need it. ----- Hope that helps!

I would suggest doing a search for "garters". You'll find lots of info and thread discussions.

Is this the one you purchased? http://www.amazon.com/Supreme-Edition-Stormtrooper-Adult-Costume/dp/B001GZSBL8 If so, you probably have to do quite a bit of work to get it to meet 501st standards. Unfortunately, you could have gotten a screen accurate kit for that price if not much less. There's a few threads on here where people have modified Rubies costumes, but they are a lot of work and in the long run, probably not the best solution. -----------

Looks great!

Congrats Vern on 100 posts!

PM sent for info. Check your messages Stig.

Confirmed. I just went downstairs to measure the scope on my blaster.

It fits you very well! Nice work trooper!

Stig, if you want a shiny armor without the labor or effort, have you considered ABS armor? TM, RT mod, AP, AM, etc. all use shiny ABS for their armor. Yes, they cost more for sure. But if polishing and or painting is not a viable option for you, for as little as $200 more you can get ABS armor, and never have to polish or paint anything. At the cheapest, get an AM kit with a pre-painted, MRCE, or ABS helmet. That will solve all your problems. I have seen "second" quality AP kits for sale on the forums a few times and they are in your price range too.

I would suggest the ATA kit if budget is a concern. The FX kit can be cut down, but it's going to be more work to cut it down and assemble it than the ATA. Also, the original FX helmet is really big, and there's more accurate and affordable choices now. The ATA is much more accurate in terms of size and proportions. At 5'9", you're at a good height for ATA, you might need a little padding here and there, but I think it will be great for a first build. Keep in mind that it's HIPS plastic which comes in a more of a matte finish, so if you want it shiny you'll need to polish or paint it. I'm 5' 8" and 145 lbs, so I have a slim build. I built an ATA with not problems or major mods, and it fits me perfect. My AM kit required a lot more work to make it fit my proportions. *PS: I think it's great that your family is supporting in your new hobby.

Welcome Jason. This thread should help you. Make sure to read through the tips and how to's and assembly sections of the forum, there's lots of info here. -----

The Hyperfirm E-11 feels lighter than my Doopydoos modded Hasbro, which I already thought was light. It’s a hard rubber outer shell, foam filled with a carbon / fiberglass rod inside for stiffness. I don’t have the numbers either, but they are very light!

Slide your forearm armor off. If it;s not attached to the biceps, it should be easy. Even if it is attached with elastic, you should be able to pull them off by stretching or detaching the elastic. This will give your arms more mobility to slide the chest plate over your head. Don't worry. After a few testing fittings, you'll be able to take it on and off fairly easily.

You can trim the knee plate a little more if you want to reduce the gap, like this image below. Once you pull it tight and drill the holes for the rivets (don't forget to use a backing washer) it will be more snug. No one will see the gap since it's minimized and on the underside.

The AP shins are a little funky. The inner left shin is actually the same as the outer right shin. The parts are not unique as they are supposed to be. Pete / Stukatrooper made this diagram here to help. ---------- Mock them up, take a picture and post it here. I'm sure we can confirm for you if you have it placed correctly.

Excellent tips, Tom! I'll be keeping these tips handy for upcoming newsletters and tutorials.

Nice find! Personally, I would put a real scope on a pipe kit. I don't know if I would use it so much for trooping, the weight might be an issue? The scope on the Hyperfirm might make it top heavy handling wise?

Stig, even if you cannot get a buffer and polishing compound, you can still wet sand your kit. Go to a hardware store or automotive supply store, and get some microgrit sandpaper (not the kind for wood, the fine black ones). Get various grits that get smoother. Eg: 400, 600, 1000. You can polish the armor at the end with plastic polish like Novus, or if you can't find that you can use automotive swirl remover. It's designed to take small scratches out. Painting a kit is not that scary. Simply sand it down with 400 grit, wash with detergent, rinse and dry. Primer the plastic and use a good paint like Rustoleum. Lots of people have done it with great results!

Have you tried looking at the AM build threads on the forum? There's quite a few actually. This was posted today, which contains 4 detailed builds (links at the bottom of the article) ----- There's also this tutorial for assembling thighs in the "Tips and how to's" section ----- Lastly, the Academy web site has a library of tutorials. Some are still in progress but leg assembly tutorials are on there. ----- There should also be printed instructions that came with your kit if you bought it directly from AM, you can use those as a starting point and use the build threads and tips on this FISD to add more detail. Good luck with your build!

To clarify, are you planning to make your own armor out of fiberglass? How will you create negative molds to lay the glass? I know a few people who have created armor or helmets in fiberglass (many years ago), but personally, I don't think it's worth the work and effort. I used to work with fiberglass and GRP for car body kits, etc. Having fiberglass right next to your face / skin is not a fun experience, even with an under suit on. Yes, you can coat it but now you're adding weight too. Depending on how thick you make it, there may be areas that need to flex (like the cod or any joints) than can crack. There's the weight issue, and durability and cost. Armor kits have gotten a lot more affordable these days, so I'm not sure it's really worthwhile to make one out of GRP / fiberglass when you can just buy a kit.

Tom / Mark: thanks for pointing that out. I'll make a request to revise that armor info so that we have it right. Thanks! T.

Thanks guys! Hope you find this helpful. Building the AM kit was a lot of fun! I think it would be great to feature these armor reviews on the Academy, that way the FISD has a central hub / starting point for everyone new getting into the hobby.