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I would dare say for basic approval (depending on your GML) you would be ok as you are, we try to give feedback that covers the higher levels and hope the member does apply for EIB or Centurion after their approval so it's entirely your choice

Hi all, long time listener first time caller. I pre-ordered the ANOVOS kit way back in 2015 at Star Wars Celebration Anaheim. After receiving the kit there was much ooh-ing and aah-ing as I sifted through the mountains of white plastic, and dreams of one day owning a completed armor set. It was then put back into storage (along with hopes and dreams) for almost a decade. But there's no time like the present! I've finally decided to complete this build or die trying, with a goal of completion by Halloween. I've lurked these forums and followed many build threads over the years, so I figured starting my own build thread would be a good way to document and share my journey like those that have inspired me along with getting some valuable feedback, About a year or so ago, I actually took the pieces out and rough trimmed everything. Thanks past-me! Decided to start with the right forearm first, here it is trimmed, sized, and inner cover strips attached. Didn't do a great job cutting straight so there is a bit of a gap at the butt joins. Imperial inspector Kiki disapproves of my shoddy work. Currently working on the left forearm and both bicep pieces. Just attached inner cover strips for left forearm, biceps are trimmed and sized but waiting on the arrival of more magnets before attachment of inner cover strips.

Congratulations!

Bro heard they were getting grey pieces and took them all

Thank you, Tony, that's good to know. I will do that.

I absolutely want to apply for higher levels, but I humbly don't want to get ahead of myself. Just hoping mostly to become part of this community!

Looking good Hanson For the record, I used to be a GGG member myself before moving to NV. Being so close to Lucas the GGG GML used to be very strict about appearance and tolerances, even at basic. Before going too far I would encourage you to get the GML's feedback regarding your build so far. Just to be on the safe side. Keep up the great work

Congratulations trooper, well done EI Honor Gallery updated

I was worried that the butt join gap would result in a weaker glue joint due to the reduced surface area for cover strip to armor contact, but it seems pretty sturdy so far. For the leg pieces that are subject to more stress I'll definitely try to get the butt join straighter and cleaner. I'm tempted to buy a belt sander but I have enough neglected power tools as is... Maybe I just need to reassure myself I'll definitely use it again in the future... Right? Will definitely need more/bigger magnets as that's my limiting reagent right now.

Hello and welcome aboard, here's my way of getting straight lines: First I like to mark trim lines with a pencil, easy to rub off again. Being ATA it is a little thicker ABS than most other armor so I like to use a rotary tool with a cutting disk to roughly trim. Time for the first cut For those pieces having cover strips added, arms/biceps 15mm, thighs/shin fronts 20mm and backs 25mm, divide by 2 and you have how far you need to trim from the outside ridge. Here is the first thigh so 1/2 of 20mm is 10mm, so measure from the curve section ends on the top of the ridge by 10mm. I like to use a steel ruler and clamps to get a nice straight line. As this is a build for Jerry I'm going to leave some extra material on the backs of pieces for a test fitting, I prefer to have the fronts a standard size and adjust the rears if needed, you can always trim off but it's hard to add on . I like to use a sanding drum attachment to get excess ABS off. Also go around all the edges with some fine sandpaper to get rid of any sharp edges, you don't want "armor bites" Then to get those lines really straight a long sanding block. Normally I would trim everything in one go but due to some issues with my hands I find it's easier to take a break from trimming and do some assembly. On to assembling the thighs, I use some painters tape and clamps to fit the pieces together to make sure they align well top and bottom. Then tape across the centres to pull them together. You can then lay a piece of tape down the length of the inside of the thigh. Pull off the outside tape and make sure you rough up the pieces with some sandpaper where the cover strips will fit. Time to make some cover strips. I like to use one long ruler and another to measure widths, mark with a pencil, then score down 3 or 4 times, you can then snap the piece off. Lay the cover strip on top of thigh and mark then trim length and round the corners to take away the sharp edge. When you are happy you can then add some E6000 glue down the middle of the cover strip, spread with some scrap ABS and with clamps and magnets apply to thigh. I also like to use painters tape on any sections that don't pull down quite enough. As I said earlier I won't be gluing the backs until we have had a trial fit. Not going to bore you will assembling every single piece, besides when I'm on a roll I tend to forget to take photos Continue with the other thigh, then shins, biceps and then forearms. Just make sure you have the correct width cuts and matching cover strips.

Andrew found ONE instance of grey shoulder straps. This boy at the top of the page who also had the grey repair sections in his bucket. He's quite the unique trooper. The grey straps match the chest so nice that I didn't even realize what I was seeing. White would have really stuck out on him. So that gives us grey hand plates AND grey shoulder straps. But at least no kintsugi shoulders. Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. Light to medium weathering as per references. No gold cracking (kintsugi) on the shoulder straps is present. The shoulder straps can be white or gray as per reference's. Builder's discretion on how this composition looks is allowable. Red wrapping may be added, as per references if desired. Red wrappings fold under the strap edge. It is suggested to only wrap one shoulder strap with red ribbons. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. Light to medium weathering as per references. Hand plates may contain the gold cracking (Kintsugi) effect. Paint pens or hand painted cracking to the surface is allowable. Hand plates can be white or gray, or have grey repaired sections as per reference's. Builder's discretion on how this composition looks is allowable. The cracking designs are up to the builder's discretion, as there are multiple references to work off. Red wrapping may be added, as per references if desired. Red wrappings continue around the glove. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. Cracking (Kintsugi) effect, must be created using a Dremel or similar tool into the surface, gold colored paint or paint pens can be used to fill in the cracking. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gold imitation leaf must be used for any patching and filling of cracks. Real gold leaf can be used but is not a requirement. ------------------------------ Can/should the CRL have a line like "It is suggested"? Trying to suggest a certain look without forcing a builder to do an exact thing seems hard to word.

They key to the grey seems to be less is more. Seems that they all have some, and if there is a big panel like a helmet or chest plate it's not all of it, and then there is maybe 1 or 2 small patches. Ideally I'd say match a screen trooper but this is also a rare chance for members to express them selves. So long as they aren't solid grey I think we can be reasonably open with the wording. All of the close ups we have, not one has any cracking on a shoulder strap.

I found that the weight of my E-11 makes my belt sag. Putting velcro on the back side of the belt and on your armor will help hold it up.

Look, I'm not gonna risk any damage with my Blaster

You may notice the side of the belt is pretty much straight at this stage, because of the angle of the kidney the belt can ride up when worn, this may change the height of the belt at the front but you won't know until you are fully kitted up. References below. Notes: The bottom of the canvas belt should ideally sit above the bottom of the kidney plate and not overlap the kidney/posterior plate connection. With the front of the belt you could have come up just a touch, for higher level approval: The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels. A slight overlap is suggested, but not required. You will also need to trim your smaller ab plate Also when painting Note: For Level 3 the paint does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button.

PART IV OK, I think I have everything squared away. I was worried about getting the belt properly aligned to the ab, but I think I did OK. Marked a spot on the canvas that was midpoint of the height on both sides, and punched: Did a test fit, and transferred the hole mark where I thought it would be OK. This turned out to be in a bad spot, so I moved the mark up about 2cm: Sorry, had a photo of the wrong side, but you get the idea. After repunching and transferring marks, I bravely drilled holes in the ab section and set the snaps (long, and somewhat difficult process with the ab and kidney already permanently attached to each other, no photos). And voila! Hoping this is good! For some reason it seems to make more sense to have the snaps above mid-height of the canvas belt. Maybe because it’s ‘hanging’ more than it’s holding on? Now come the most feared parts: helmet and painting!

Mision 20 04/07/2024 – ALCALA DE HENARES (MAD) – DONACION DE SANGRE CON CRUZ ROJA