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Hi Dan, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! You did an amazing job removing those print lines. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Your costume looks great and there are no further recommendations. *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. From the EIB application photos, your kit looks ready for Centurion application.

Andrew found ONE instance of grey shoulder straps. This boy at the top of the page who also had the grey repair sections in his bucket. He's quite the unique trooper. The grey straps match the chest so nice that I didn't even realize what I was seeing. White would have really stuck out on him. So that gives us grey hand plates AND grey shoulder straps. But at least no kintsugi shoulders. Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. Light to medium weathering as per references. No gold cracking (kintsugi) on the shoulder straps is present. The shoulder straps can be white or gray as per reference's. Builder's discretion on how this composition looks is allowable. Red wrapping may be added, as per references if desired. Red wrappings fold under the strap edge. It is suggested to only wrap one shoulder strap with red ribbons. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. Light to medium weathering as per references. Hand plates may contain the gold cracking (Kintsugi) effect. Paint pens or hand painted cracking to the surface is allowable. Hand plates can be white or gray, or have grey repaired sections as per reference's. Builder's discretion on how this composition looks is allowable. The cracking designs are up to the builder's discretion, as there are multiple references to work off. Red wrapping may be added, as per references if desired. Red wrappings continue around the glove. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. Cracking (Kintsugi) effect, must be created using a Dremel or similar tool into the surface, gold colored paint or paint pens can be used to fill in the cracking. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gold imitation leaf must be used for any patching and filling of cracks. Real gold leaf can be used but is not a requirement. ------------------------------ Can/should the CRL have a line like "It is suggested"? Trying to suggest a certain look without forcing a builder to do an exact thing seems hard to word.

They key to the grey seems to be less is more. Seems that they all have some, and if there is a big panel like a helmet or chest plate it's not all of it, and then there is maybe 1 or 2 small patches. Ideally I'd say match a screen trooper but this is also a rare chance for members to express them selves. So long as they aren't solid grey I think we can be reasonably open with the wording. All of the close ups we have, not one has any cracking on a shoulder strap.

As you can see, I have made some repairs in this area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Incredible. Thank you! Stand by for my next Centurion app

Look, I'm not gonna risk any damage with my Blaster

It's only after sanding the edges that we get the look of clean lines. As you browse through different build threads you will see that just about everyone's cuts look rough just after using a knife or shears. Some sand the edges before putting everything together, and others (me) sometimes wait to sand until after putting the parts together. Nevertheless, the edges look rough prior to sanding. That is unavoidable. You're already in a great place by having started your build! Plenty of folks feel daunted and/or overwhelmed when they see all the pieces laid out prior to doing any work. It's great that you have moved through that feeling of being daunted or overwhelmed to begin your build! Take it a step at a time as you research different build threads and measure, cut, and assemble the pieces. The threads that @gmrhodes13 has posted will give you excellent guidance (as will Glen and others here) in navigating your build. As @Nairy alluded to, the asymmetry of the armor provides helpful hints for which pieces go on which side. Reading through different build threads, as well as the ANH reference threads, will give you an idea of which pieces go on each side as your build. As is the case when building any stormtrooper (or any costume in general), research is key and give yourself plenty of credit for getting this far and making progress! You'll make more progress some days than others, but the more you learn and the more questions you ask will all help keep up the momentum to bring your stormtrooper to life!

You may notice the side of the belt is pretty much straight at this stage, because of the angle of the kidney the belt can ride up when worn, this may change the height of the belt at the front but you won't know until you are fully kitted up. References below. Notes: The bottom of the canvas belt should ideally sit above the bottom of the kidney plate and not overlap the kidney/posterior plate connection. With the front of the belt you could have come up just a touch, for higher level approval: The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels. A slight overlap is suggested, but not required. You will also need to trim your smaller ab plate Also when painting Note: For Level 3 the paint does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button.

OMG. I literally JUST looked at that trooper (Ribbon Face) and didn't notice his grey hand. Nice spotting! I looked at hands for a literal half hour today lol

There are some with grey on the handplates, plenty with dremel lines, gold and some with wraps

No shoulder bridge Kintsugi then. I'm actually further ahead on the Wiki document than the posts here, so give me a moment to catch up. I've got about half written and already with changes from the original draft posted at top of this thread. I'll look to see what needs changing on the bridges and post what we have so far in the next day or two.

Me, when I have to troop with an E-11

Iykyk Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk

Added Praetorian Blasters - Rubber Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1742840523/e-11-blaster-classic-version-rubber