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Sorry to be in quite late to this, covid was mean to me. Even though i have yet to hand in my application (Detonator and boots still to do), i have everything else finished. In terms of helmet i used three rather small fans from Henry's Helmet Fans, the 30x10mm ones if i am not mistaken. Coupled with two powerbanks i picked up at my local electronics store for like 10 bucks each. The powerbanks go into the 'cheeks' of the helmet and sit there perfectly. The fans sit on either side of my visor to keep it from fogging up, angled slightly downward, while the third one is right behind the black vocoder part of the helmet on the inside - sitting under my nose and chin. To catch all the moisture from simply breathing/talking. It is sitting a bit sideways to push the warm air out to the left of my throat. I can comfortably wear my helmet for 9h straight without fogging up or feeling bad inside it. It works just right with an Aker mic i cut down and stitched to a simple sweatband for my icomm, which is sitting inside the chestplate. And one powerbank lasts for 11h of use with the three small fans. The second one is simply to keep balance and as a backup in the helmet, as their weight would otherwise make it feel a bit lopsided. I am hat size 58, for America that is 7 1/4 i believe. I fit in fine with all of that inside + cushions. Hard to take pictures of it, so bear with me.

I worked on the rear belt. I read the small update to the Rogue One TK CRL just as I was getting started. I stayed with my original plan and the original CRL to overlap the rear belt over the front belt since that's what I planned for and the front belt was designed that way. I didn't change the bottom edge of the front belt either. I kept it with one edge and no trimming. Both are optional in the updated CRL and staying with the original plan still works within the CRL. I curved the rear belt after a hot water bath. I wrapped it around the abdomen armor while I wore it. I then trimmed the length. In hindsight, I wish I hadn't trimmed the length until I had fully fitted the rear belt with snaps and test fitted it. In the end, I left enough length, but there was a point during the build that I thought I had taken too much off. I added snaps to the rear belt and abdomen and then did a test fit. At first, none of it was working or fitting that well. I realized that the top piece of the posterior armor that I left to fill the gap under the rectangular plate wasn't allowing the posterior armor to sit naturally. It was causing the posterior piece to sit too tight to my body and was interfering with attaching the belt with the snaps. Once I removed that piece, the rear belt fit nicely and the posterior armor followed the contour of my body. I then worked on attaching the thermal detonator to the rear belt. Before assembling the detonator, I cemented two stainless steel, threaded nuts on the inside and drilled two holes that gave access to the nuts. For the 3D printed piece that I made to connect the detonator to the rear belt, I drilled two holes slightly bigger than the size of the bolts to allow for a little error when I cemented the piece to the belt. That piece also needed a slightly concave back to match the curve of the rear belt. I did that with the spindle sander. I then drilled holes in the rear belt and cemented the thermal detonator holder to the belt.

*I need to begin this thread by giving the biggest thanks and appreciation to @justjoseph63. If it weren't for him, this project would have ended badly. He put up with my endless questions to try to get this as screen accurate as possible... so I humbly bow to you in greatness!* I was 12 years old when ANH was released in 1977, and ever since then I wanted my own E-11 blaster. As time went on, I still wanted one, but could never afford a "real" one. The blaster slipped my mind for a while, until I stumbled on one by accident. It was one by Blaster Master on MyMiniFactory. Here is the link: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-star-wars-storm-trooper-blastech-e-11-blaster-rifle-by-blaster-master-72283 It was an old upload, so the electronics that could be used with it were no longer sold. I wasn't sure if I wanted sounds/lights yet... I just wanted to build it anyway. It was printed using Hatchbox Black ABS on a Sovol SV01 FDM printer, with some parts printed with an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro resin printer. I'll start the thread with a picture of some of the parts printed and assembled. The barrel was in 3 pieces, glued together and sanded to hide the seams. The magazine is 2 pieces. The tail end comes off. I use it to hide the battery for the electronics I used (more on that later...). The T-Tracks were 2 pieces, the top rail part printed with TPU, to keep it looking and feeling rubbery. I got the spring from Blaster Factory... I had to actually cut it down a bit because the compression was way too much for this build, but it worked great. Every part in this build was sanded numerous times, painted with matte black primer/paint, then sprayed with a matte clear coat. Another note: I'm sure things in this build won't conform to any certification, and I won't be doing the full armor anytime soon, but I TOTALLY respect this community, and plan on being here for a long time. If this will get me a weapon certification, that would be pretty cool, but I'm still not too up on how that all works yet...

Today I received my 1.5mm ANH Stunt helmet kit from DA Props. I already had plans to spray paint my helmet as the originals were but I was surprised to find that the ABS arrived in a baby blue colour. The wait was rather long due to the seller taking off for the holidays but I'm glad it all arrived in one piece. I plan to start trimming today and gathering the paints required for this project. I am excited! Edit: this blue colour was only a protective film over the white ABS. It has since been removed!

Thanks for the quick reply!

Looking forward to seeing you put this together. I like the shape of the DA helmet and want to add one to my collection in the future.

XTC will be great on the larger areas, but it will fill in the details fast if you're not careful. Also make sure you mix it correctly or it can take ages to cure. If you need to cut try use a hand coping saw or jewellers saw. being slow and by hand it's going to cut more than melt. I also like to use drill bits designed for wood as they cut more aggressively and so melt less, especially if you slow the drill down little. To make that moveable will be awkward, you'll need to first remove the one that's there. Then hollow behind it and then mound a new trigger in its place. Something like a small tactile switch (look at the 6mm ones), or a sub microswitch will need the least space. For the trigger its self, once you have cut something to the correct size and shape, a simple pin in the top corner is all you need, something like a small nail is perfect and will be easy to hide.

Another live action Night trooper Sam Riegel

I did remove that. My forearms have thin strips on the inside to hold the two halves together. Then the resin strips over the seams. I had to also sand my resin strips down a bit from the bottom as they were to thick otherwise.