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Hi Trooper ! Great to see your EIB submission, (I'm sure this is just your first step towards your real goal , Centurion Badge. I'll be making your review so I'll be with you as soon as possible.

Publicity shot taken in the UK late 1977 / early 1978 for the UK release of A New Hope Thank you to @Billhag for sharing UKG references

If you're worried about weight, you might check into AP (Authentic Props) armor. It's sized very generously in the midsection. And if you're painting the bucket anyway, no issues with using a different set of armor as you can paint the DA helmet to match. AP is also having a Boxing Day sale right now I believe. Check the sale forum. My own AP armor has almost achieved 100 troops and it's as strong as it was on day 1. I'm blessed to be the actual size of a 70s stunt TK. My AP armor needed a decent bit of midsection trimming to make it fit my small frame. However, it was lovely that it came in a larger size vs many kits that require shimming to fit larger troopers. Much easier to trim some extra plastic than to shim and paste. It's also not difficult to achieve Centurion in AP armor. No affiliation with AP, just a satisfied customer.

Thank you all very much for your time and advice! As I said, I have already purchased the ABS stunt helmet but I have plans to emulate CableGuy Dan by using the green/khaki base coat (he managed to color match) to give it the HDPE look. Hopefully this makes the ABS of the helmet and whatever armor set I decide on not a problem at the end of the day because the main coat will be spay painted like the originals. I'm 5'11 and 190 lbs which is something I'm actively working on. I'll do some more research on what is best for my body type but the main goal is to look as if I walked off set in 1976. After seeing the other details that might be a problem with getting a DA Prop to level 3 it might be best to steer clear or make the changes required while building the armor. RS seems to be a great choice but they only provide fully completed sets of armor at this time. I was hoping to give myself a project and build my own. I have a lot to think about but I'm very gracious for the advice provided and I can tell this is a great community! Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

I have a WIP placeholder over on MEPD, since the 2nd-hand kit was already a TD, and the new one will be as well. I may most likely just keep the build over here, as there seems to be a more active base here vs in the sand. It's still going to be a TD. As iconic as the shiny whites are, the real-world scuffs & dings will just hide better on a TD. And we get to ride giant lizards!

There have been a few but none since #415 in 2018

Now all we need is someone to design an accurate 3D model! Being an OT TK blaster, I'm getting that itch to build one already.

Welcome to the forums, William! As a fellow "stitch counter" (I am so stealing that phrase, lol) I think it's great that you are aiming for Centurion right out of the box! To my knowledge we have never had a kit from DA Props submitted for L3 approval, but you could be the first. . It will need some extra work on your part, as the requirements for L3 are pretty defined about certain items. Not the biggest of deals by any means, as there are many tutorials on every issue you can imagine and we can help! This issue is one we run across on occasion: Note that the large ab-button box does not have an "edge" around it (pic 1) as seen in the reference images and is required for Centurion** It may be the photo (#2), but it looks as if in it's untrimmed state it does not give you the option to have this. The box can be glued on to a sheet of matching ABS, trimmed and the seam filled in with ABS paste. It takes time, but I have seen it done quite successfully. ** Plate does not overlap the edges of this area and shall show a definite straight cut edge around all sides. Reference images While you have the ABS paste handy, I would suggest filling in the dimples on the center of the TD end caps. Also note that there are 6 bumps on their TD button panel as opposed to 7 on the originals. The bumps are not a big issue, but the D.O.s may ask you to fill in the dimples. Screen used TD images One thing that does cause me a bit of concern is the top of the kidney plate. In the images on their site the tops appear to have an inward curve in the center instead of being straight. Not sure if this is from the casting process or what, but not the best of looks IMO. If yours arrives this way it may be able to be heat-bended back. Not the easiest of processes, but it can be done! As Andrew mentioned, there are no "perfect" kits. All will require some modding, but some more than others, so it depends on how much extra work you want to put in to it. Whichever armorer you choose, we can help get you to as close to screen accuracy as you want to be. All ya' gotta do is ask!

Hi William and welcome to our detachment. Armour can vary a little based on how it is trimmed, but these look ok. Shins aren't necessarily long on many kits, but if you want kit to do side by side comparisons with, have a look at some of the RS Prop build threads. Most of the parts are cast off an original suit they own. If you are a stitch counter and fussy with the finer details, then they are a good starting point. Generally, the chest piece also isn't as big as you may think. Some kits were cast off the inside of the parts, other cast from the outside, so in that case may be slightly larger unless a maker does oversized parts for a larger trooper. The actors in ANH were in general slim build and between 5'9"–6' tall. Armour can be modified to fit larger builds, but does come to a point where longer limb parts may be required to fit a taller trooper. Research research research is the key from here on out. Next is the colour of the ABS in your helmet vs buying a kit from a different maker. Sometimes they can be very different and in turn too noticeable. ABS colour can also change between batches, so it is easier to buy a set along with the helmet, so there isn't a discernible difference. There really isn't such a thing as the ideal set of armour, but more to the point there is an ideal set for an individual based on budget, country of origin, size and how much lineage you want your kit to have back to an original screen used suit. We can direct to towards makers based on a few pieces of information. Your height and build are always the best starting points to get feedback from those of similar stature. Most importantly, you will have heaps of fun on your new journey of discovery, and we are here to help along the way.

On one hand, what a noticeable jump in accuracy… but pretty impressive how close people got with nothing more than VHS/DVD and magazine stills!

Here is an update to this introduction thread. My BBB came in today surprisingly 1 week early. I am not complaining. Caleb, to address your comment on the side-by-side...here ya go.....as mentioned, my first helmet and kit was from 20 years ago, and it is probably an FX...not an EFX btw.... The old one is bigger, and of course, inaccurate. The rest of the pics of the build, I will post in the appropriate "build" place. Thanks!

Right?? Can't ever have enough white plastic! Really grateful we've got so many TK's in my Garrison [63] 16.12.2023 -- Dreamhack Hannover Time for the last event of the year! With troopers from all over Northern Germany, we patrolled the gaming convention in Hannover for the weekend. I got to join on Saturday with TK-71384 and TK-92227 as the Chaos Division. We met old and new faces, made sure to keep everything in order and went on patrol with ID-15519 and TK-21698. Since there were a few games we could play as well, we faced off against a cyber bullying monster and even got under the top ten! Even though us troopers might not hit anything, we've got a very good sense of timing apparently, as the game was all about fast reactions and proper timing. As a price we got a t-shirt and a bag with goodies. To end the day, I did an armor swap with my good friend and clone-brother CC-75367. And although my armor wasn't a perfect fit for him and the Wolffe armor felt a bit awkward in places, nobody noticed that we'd switched -- as long as we wore our helmets at least. And the double-takes we got with our buckets off might just have been the highlight of the troop. After this, I am even more hyped for my own Clone armor! TK-66744 signing off

Congratulations Trooper. Welcome to the ranks.

Congratulations Matt, welcome to EI rank!

Congratulations Matt. Nice job

Congratulations, Matt! Welcome to the ranks!

Way to go, Matt! I feel quite confident that you can jump on these items and that we will be seeing your Centurion submission soon! If you need any help or advice, let us know, brother. We are here for ya'.

Congrats Matt! A fine build you have! We look forward to seeing your Centurion app soon!

Congratulations Matt. Welcome to EIB ranks. you can do it to Centurion!!

Congratulations and welcome to the Expert Infantry and also the EI Honor gallery

Hi Matt, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First of all, Matt, thank you for the work you've done to improve your armor. Very good job! Ok, let's start with the helmet. -L3.:Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them. As we have explained in other occasions, we will only require it for Centurion, when the helmet looks "weird", which is not your case. Reference images -To be more screen accurate, you can trim the brow a little bit (take care not to cut too much). Reference images -The helmet seems to be too high. Maybe you can remove some padding, and then the helmet will sit a little lower. Reference image -You can lower your forearms a little, that they almost touch the handguards. -A simple dressing issue here. The undersuit seems to bunch up a bit in this area. Maybe a size down can help you with this. Reference images -Also, make sure that the TD is in position. It's a small detail that makes your armor look awesome. Reference images -For more accuracy, you can trim the small ab button panel. Reference images -Another dressing issue. It looks like you forgot to connect the strap that connects the cod area to the posterior armor. It's another small detail that makes the armor look stunning. Reference images -The raised ridges of the calves must be aligned. Symmetry and placement can improve the armor incredibly, believe us. Reference images - You can lower this area a little too, so it doesn't look like you washed the armor in the washing machine with hot water (just kidding). But seriously, you'll avoid that long-legged Trooper look. Reference images ********************************************************************************************************************************************************* Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. -It is curious. This is the second time we have seen this in a very short time. It appears that the tube stripes on the right side, are too far away from the cheek in the area next to the ear. The CRL states: "... the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.". It will be necessary to move the tube stripes to their correct position. As always, and we know it happens sometimes, if it is an optical effect of the photo, let us know! Reference images -L3. Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. We add it here, as we do not have a photo showing this area. Something like this: -L3. Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. It's very little, and we're sure it will be easy to fix. A little tightening of the belt will probably be enough. Reference images -As Joseph rightly points out in your application, Ideally, it should sit a bit lower and more toward the rear. By following Joseph's instructions, you will solve the problem quickly and easily: "The process involves removing 3 screws- the first being the one that holds the scope rail on at the rear. After you remove the rail, you will be able to access the plate on the rail that the Hengstler mounts to. Just remove the screws, reposition it, drill a couple of new holes and re-attach the screws." Reference images -Indeed, the missing spring is a problem. We know it's complicated, but your blaster will look much more realistic with the spring. At the end, it's Centurion level and all this kind of details are necessary. Reference image Nothing more to add, , Matt. Congratulations !!! Don't forget to request your EIB Certificate HERE.

OCD inclinations? Me? (Well, maybe just a bit),

But we all know that Joseph and his OCD inclinations definitely colored in the threading on the back anyway. But I’m the same way myself, too. ;-) In fact, I checked my pouches this evening and was horrified to see that I didn’t do the backs of them. Maybe next time I’m watching a movie... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk