Leaderboard

Bonus video from the STEM parade https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clmIZWh-ye8

Name: Rodrigo Cid ID: TK-14292 Username: Aizenoso Garrison: Spanish Garrison Armor Maker: Armour Factory Props (AFP) Blaster maker: ArtNeo EI Approval Thread: Helmet Maker: Armour Factory Props (AFP) Height/Weight: 1,84m. 82kgrs. Boot Maker: Valverde del camino (sold by Armour Factory Props / AFP ) Canvas Belt Supplier: Armour Factory Props (AFP) Neck Seal: Armour Factory Props (AFP) Hand Guard: Armour Factory Props (AFP) Holster Maker: Armour Factory Props (AFP) Photos: FULL BODY 1. Front 2. Back 3. Left side 4. Right side 5. Left side detail 6. Right side detail ARMOR DETAILS 7. Cod and posterior plate connections 8. Shoulder bridges 9. Thigh ammo pack connections 10. Sniper knee plate 11. Wrist openings 12. Abdomen button plates 13. Posterior plate/kidney connection HELMET DETAILS 14. Front 15. Left side 16. Right side 17. Rear 18. Close-up of Hovi tips 19. S-Trim 20. Ear screws ACCESORIES 21. Thermal detonator 22. Hand guards bent 23. Holster ATtachment 24. ABS/Canvas belt 25. Boots BLASTER 26. Left Side 27. Right Side 28. Rear Hope everything is correct! PS: I did use a couple V tabs to keep the kidney-butt plate on place. can't doo much more with that.

Greetings all. My name is Tom Tilmon, I was already a member of the Carolina Garrison as DS-74759 TFA Kylo Ren. My ultimate goal was to be a stormtrooper, although, I'm a bit too big to be a TK. I'm 6'3" 240#......so fitting in armor was difficult and required a lot of shimming! I have had this kit for 4 years, traded a MPP Lightsaber for it to a trooper that built an Anovos Kit. Thing sat in the closet in boxes needing trimming and assembly for years. But, I finally got my kit built. I would now love to build another one to Centurion or EIB standards, and turn this one into a TD. But that will have to wait until after my BOBF Mando, Shoretrooper. Both of which are in the works. PS, I also own a lightsaber company called: Megtooth Sith Sabers. i was one of the first to innovate neopixels in lighsabers, as well as using open source electronics, and helped bring about "smoothswing" implementation/testing in open source boards. I built an E-11 with a Proffieboard in it, posted in FISD, didn't get much of a reaction, but I think its pretty cool! At any rate, I'm proud to be a member with you all, and I'm finally living the dream of being a stormtrooper, which I also kind of am in real life......I am the FUZZ. PS: I got to troop my TK with 501st Legion Founder, Albin Johnson (TK-210) in August at Soda City Comicon. Albin is in my Garrison, but it was pretty cool meeting him! Check out this link: Youtube Short with Albin Johnson! Live video of my E-11 in action! Me on the left, this picture I think shows how big I am compared to people. I'm almost as tall as the wookie on stilts! Ha.

A video to go with it

23rd of October 2023 Front-opening shins Because my Mini Imperial needed to be able to get the armour on and off by herself I had to rethink the tricky rear closure for the shins. So, I deviated from the CRL and went for front-opening/-closing, snapping shut with a magnet at the top and hinged at the back with an EVA foam cover strip. In order not to damage the EVA foam while glueing it to the shin I placed the original ABS cover strip over the top to even the clamping force. Top of left shin front with strong magnet closure Bottom front of shin with velcro strap inside (hooks facing out, loops facing in!) However: Creating a front opening was all well and good for the right shin but the sniper plate on the left shin presented a complication. I needed to make it removable but secure. Magnets were the obvious solution: And, to make sure the plate never got knocked off during trooping, I secured it with a strip of elastic:

I have done as much research as I can on the Airsoft E-11, but there are just SO many differences in those and the one I am working on. The grip, the plate below the selector switch, the switch itself, the muzzle, the bolt, the scope, etc. I can find zero references similar to it. "You should build an R1 E-11 also" Thanks to a good friend I have the kit, it's just getting the time to do it.

The bolt that came with it was solid aluminum (pic 1) with no raised ridges or serial #, so I knew that just wasn't gonna' do. In looking at several real Sterling L2A3 references thing that puzzled me was the rear of the bolt. I noticed that in some cases the rear had no protrusion (pic 2) and in some cases it did (pic 3). 1 2 3 I had one 3D printed which had the protrusion so that's the one I went with. Even after sanding it down/painting the print lines the "serial #" stayed intact. I started out by spray painting it with bright silver (2 coats). To get a more realistic metal look, I rubbed it down with charcoal powder, which got into the grooves and serial # and make them "pop". A coat of clear matte sealer and voila! This was another puzzler- The part that is permanently attached to the bottom of this particular weapon (which has the engraved safety letters that the plastic grip slides onto) was similar to the real sterling (2) but with a different shape (1). Not the biggest of deals... HOWEVER, in all the Airsoft versions I could find that plate is non-existent (3). The Airsoft shown in pic 3 has the correct selector switch, but the screw is not recessed and no engraving Not sure if this was a later model, but most peculiar. 1 2 3 In looking at the real Airsoft grip (1), it is a lot different than the original Sterling (2). Sides are flatter, rear curve is different, no recessed screw and more squared off at the rear bottom which leads me to believe it was replaced during the last mod. Guess I got lucky on this one! I have done a lot of ANH E-11 builds, but this is another item which vexes me. In some models the grip has a screw, and in some it has what looks like a ball-bearing. I normally go with the ball-bearing look, so I inserted a "hat-nut" (some call them acorn nuts) and sealed it in with black Sugru (Yes, it's brass and looks like crap right now, but I will be cleaning up the perimeter and painting it black when I'm done. The end cap clip was also missing. Fortunately I happen to have some aluminum U channel strips of the correct size, and I happened to dig out an old 3D printed clip left over from some long ago build. The first pic shows a dry fitting before sanding/filling, and the finished product is shown in the second one. Note that I slightly rounded off the corners of the U-channel so that it won't snag as easily. HINT: If you are using metal or resin, it helps to sand a groove lengthwise in the bottom of the U-channel. This will give it more contact with the surface of the body and help with adhesion. I normally do this by using some 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around the smooth part (top) of the shroud and then moving the channel up and back along it to create the recessed area (pic 3). Yeah, it takes some time, but well worth it. Trust me. Finished product glued on Next up: Hengstler counter and power cylinders.

I used a heat gun. 1. From the front sides to the raised ridges, trying on a few shins I find these areas are the best to help twist. I didn't find much movement heating the rear sides. 2. Practice on scrap plastic, I can't say this enough, I have found you can go from just pliable to molten mess in the blink of an eye, try in stages, apply a little heat then try to twist, if it doesn't move try a little more heat. Some people have had success with hot water bath's and that may be worth a try first.

Thank you all, I'm very happy to be here at FISD, and living my lifelong dream of being a Stormtrooper!

Now, is this just me or is this a universal experience?

Go back to: Troop 33 OK so additional images from the three days at Comic Con Stockholm 2023! The first batch is by Mikael Reis Andersson who needs to be credited if posted! This following image doesn't need credit! These following images are taken by fellow TK Acke Hallgren (TK-28599) Our little mini trooper She is soon going to need a new armor as she is growing out of it, just like her sister did before her! Here I felt cold sweats and getting nauseous so I marched straight for the changing room! The following images are taken by fellow TK Andreas Engström! (TK-24269) The first time I tried the Spack Pack and the pointy pose The pack is further down here in these images, but as I see it, I was "the left one" which has the pack around the same height! Making the pilot pose! PHEW that was a lot!

The memorial patch run for Dan had recently just finished:

I've already finished my box to carry the Stormtrooper TFA. Padded box and cloth bags for each piece. Denuo Novo First Order Stormtrooper Kit Building Group FIRST ORDER STORMTROOPERS Anovos & Denuo Novo Stormtrooper Kit Building Group First Order Stormtrooper Canarias Squad 501st Legion - Spanish Garrison The 501st Legion Enviado desde mi SM-S908B mediante Tapatalk

81. Montessori of Ladera Ranch Annual Fall Festival - Ladera Ranch, CA - Sat., 11/4/23 (ANH-S #54, FTE #63) @Dsposato0 and I also got some Imperial marksmanship training in while we were at this troop! Not surprisingly, we didn't hit anything. (You know it's hard to see out of those helmets!)

Troop 16 - IDHA Annual Session (11/04/23)

11/04/2023 Maryland STEM Festival Parade, Frederick, MD

I've posted this elsewhere but I figured I'd also drop it here for anyone following this one. I was granted approved for FOTK at Basic level on Nov. 1. Thanks everyone who commented and reacted. I appreciate the support of this great community & forum. It helps a lot! Stay on target. For the First Order!

Greetings everyone! I am Tom Tilmon, and while I'm not that well known here on FISD, I have been a long time stalker, and a recently approved TK. I am TK-74759. I'll be taking some more photos soon, and I'll post a freshly approved thread where appropriate. I am better known on Sith Lord Detachment, because in addition to my TK, I have an approved TFA Kylo. While building my TFA Kylo, I gutted my Black Series Lighsaber, and well, since then I have gone a bit saber mad. I own a small Lightsaber company called: Megtooth Sith Sabers. Hence my moniker here. Now that we have dispensed with the Bull, I recently got into 3D printing, and made Bryan Roller's Model of the E11, which is really cool in its own right! But in lieu of the spring, I designed a chassis to fit into the blaster behind the bolt. I also cut out the Hegstler Counter, and plopped in a SSD1306 OLED Display. I actually turned the functioning button beneath the counter into my auxiliary switch, by putting a tactile switch into the housing that Byran's plunger depresses. I have 6 wires coming out of the Hegstler housing: 2 switch wires, and 4 wires for the OLED. I did have to drill holes coming out of the counter, as well as going into the gun. In addition to the mods in the Counter box, I also added a tactile switch behind Byran's resetting trigger, which acts as my "main" switch. I routed those wires up through the switch housing, but still retained Bryan's designed indexing selector switch functionality. I did not tie the selector switch into the proffie board, as my aux switch in the counter serves to "reload" and change fonts. The below video is long on youtube, but in the expanded comments I have links to all the stuff to build this, including my config file and wiring diagram for Proffieboard. I did use a 7/8" LED Module from The Custom Saber Shop, as well as a Red, REd, Blue Custom Tri Cree for the shot propogation. This module includes a carclo lens, I'll link those below as well. I did secure the LED mdule with epoxy to the front of the bolt. I think any redesign, I'd just make onel long chassis in lieu of Bryan's bolt. I did have to cut the back half of the bolt off, where the spring would seat, as well, I cut off the part of the bolt you cannot see opposite the charging handle to make wire routing much easier. In spite of some imperfections in my build, I'm pretty proud of this technological terror I've constructed! I used a proffie 1.5 in this build, but my chassis works for all 3 current iterations of Proffieboard. Cautionary note: I used 30 ga PTFE wiring, which has thin/strong/mil spec/heat resistant insulation. because 13 wires are routed though the chassis from the blaster, the hole I designed will only work with thin PTFE wires of 30 ga! I use Powerwerx wire, I'll include that link. The config file would have to be slightly modified if you wanted to use a Gen2 or Gen3 Proffieboard, but that is easy. I have a youtube channel with all sorts of help videos on Proffieboard here: Megtooth Sith Youtube NOTE: If you do decide to build this as I did, the tri cree LED and Lens combination are a low class laser. Do not look into it, or point it at anyone's eyes, unless it is greatly diffused! Without further blah blah, here is my blaster in action, as well as some of the build out/installation: Bryan Roller's Model: STERLING SMG MK4 (L2A3) by TK14082 - Thingiverse Bryan Roller's E11 additions for ANH on above model: E11 BLASTER (EPISODE IV: A NEW HOPE) ACCESSORY KIT by TK14082 - Thingiverse My 3D Chassis model for Proffieboard, 2.1mmRCP, 18650 Keystone battery holder, and 28mm bass speaker: E-11 Chassis that works with Bryan Roller's Sterling E11 Model to convert it to functioning prop with Proffieboard by TomTilmon - Thingiverse Buy yourself a Proffieboard: ProffieBoard v2.2 - Open Source Sound Board | Electronics123 My config file: E11 Proffie 1.5 Config - Pastebin.com My wiring diagram: https://imgur.com/8IISdGL TCSS 7/8 LED Module: .875" OD Heatsink module with center hole (thecustomsabershop.com) TCSS tri cree lens: 18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens (thecustomsabershop.com) TCSS Tri Cree (order Red, Red, Blue): Custom Tri-Cree LED with modified base (thecustomsabershop.com) 18650 keystone holder: 18650 Single Cell Holder (thecustomsabershop.com) 28mm speaker: 4W 28mm WOWSpeaker (thecustomsabershop.com) 2.1 mm RCP: Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack (thecustomsabershop.com) Rotational Kill Key for 2.1 MM RCP, will turn your recharge port into an on/off switch! Kill Key x 4 - with On/Off slot (TTXEEY3S8) by Rick_D_Ryo (shapeways.com) Battery: Keeppower Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3200mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery (thecustomsabershop.com) PTFE wiring: PTFE High Temperature Stranded Wire | Powerwerx (make sure you only get 30 gauge, and also get lots of colors so you don't get confused) My video on programming proffieboards, its long but detailed and timestamped so you can skip to what you need: Fett263's website for Proffieboard resources: Fett263 Proffieboard ProffiePixel Lightsaber Resources Happy building troopers