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Let me start off and say I am new to all this. I want to share my experience researching costumes. I didn't know about WhiteArmor.net until a couple of days ago, unfortunately. I started researching costumes and saw a few websites, but then I came across stormtrooper-costumes.com. I certainly wasn't impressed with their website but nothing else seemed to make sense to me, and their website indicated they would contact me after purchase to get me the right size of everything. The cost was upwards of $2000. I did make the transaction. I then learned about this forum and was quickly pointed to the post below. My heart sank as I started reviewing feedback on stormtrooper-costumes.com and Jedi-Robe. I don't know if they make good or bad costumes, and I won't disparage them about their costumes. I will say that I was taken aback that the negative feedback I saw on this forum was going all the way back to 2012! And it wasn't just one or two bad experiences. Also, of course, stormtrooper-costumes.com Jedi-Robe was called out as specifically a bad vendor. Since they never followed up, granted, it's only been three days to get my measurements, and with the negative feedback I saw, I requested them to cancel the order and a refund. I have not seen a response to any of the emails I have sent them. I would certainly follow the advice of this forum and the many, many, many negative reviews of On stormtrooper-costumes.com Jedi-Robe. One of the goals of this post is to make it a little easier for new folks to find this and hopefully not make the same mistake as I did. On a positive note, I was able to connect with Dave from Daves Darkside Depot and purchased a costume from him! I was very impressed speaking with him and can't wait for the costume to get here! It's like Christmas, only 10x better!

If it's the two piece I use some soft pine for the outside to rest on and regular small hammer on the inside. If it's the split post type, same applies but use a flat screwdriver to spread the legs (that sounded rude)

In my builds I have used a plier or a rubber hammer on a hard surface. Or you can use a tool like below https://www.amazon.com/Leather-LANMOK-Replacement-Repairing-Decoration/dp/B07F9S7YP4/ref=sr_1_14?crid=11TZYF9H8D9WP&keywords=single%2Bcap%2Brivets%2Binstall%2Btool&qid=1689892613&sprefix=single%2Bcap%2Brivets%2Binstall%2Btool%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-14&th=1

Hi, 1. I bought the sew on snaps for the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection to copy what my original RS suit has. Am I able to use the line 24 snaps for this instead? YES you can 2. Attaching the knee ammo belt. Am I correct in assuming that I should drill the holes into the ammo belt first (see pic for where I intend to put these) then, using these holes, mark the drill spots on the thigh armour when lined up? This chart would help you to check the ammo pack location and then make the holes. And this references for the accurate position of the rivets

That is what this forum is all about Dale, and I'm glad you had a good experience. Do you know why I created this forum? It was because back in 2005 when I joined there was *no* transparency at all. There was no forum, no Facebook, and certainly *noone* talked openly about armor. When you were new the answer was "I know a guy" or you took your risks on Ebay, paying ~$1500 for FX armor (which is how I started). Only when you got in did you get access to the Legion Yahoo group, or your local garrison, who would give you more information. "Is that armor recast?" "Hey man, why are you asking so many questions!" was the answer. Having even this page where anyone could read it was novel and we got a lot of pushback about doing so. Thankfully I was new to the Legion and just kept pushing forward, and was surrounded by a core team of like minded people. Yes, this type of transparency is now normal and expected, but at one point it would have been considered heretical.

Hola Manvi. Voy a ser el DO encargado de revisar tu solicitud. Cómo bien te han indicado anteriormente, hay que hacer una serie de arreglos antes de poder continuar con tu solicitud. Estaremos aquí para ayudarte en lo que necesites. Hi Manvi. I am going to be the DO who will review your application. As indicated above, there are a few fixes that need to be made before we can proceed with your application. We will be here to help you with whatever you need. -Las malla de tus puntas Hovi sobresalen del borde y tienen que estar un poco hacia adentro. -The screens on your Hovi tips are sticking out past the rims and need to be inside the rims with no edges of the screens showing. Reference image -Tus botas parecen estar muy bien hechas, pero desafortunadamente las suelas parecen ralladas. El CRL indica que deben tener suela plana, como se ve en lafoto de referencia. -Your boots seem to be really well made, but unfortunately the soles appear to be textured/ribbed. As stated in the CRL they must have a flat sole as seen in the screen used photo reference. Reference image -El bláster necesita algunos ajustes. -The blaster also needs some fixes. Sabemos que no es lo que esperas cuando compras una armadura montada, pero no te desanimes, estamos aquí para ayudarte. We know it's not what you expect when you buy a full commission armor, but don't be discouraged, we are here to help you.

Since it is lit up from the inside it is quite hard to tell exactly! I'd take new pictures in normal lighting, and step away from the helmet with the camera and zoom in to take the picture, some of these images on the helmet seem to be a little warped and can make things look like something they are not!

SDCC, may need a few adjustments Pretty bad how it is displayed, you think you would want to display your product to the best of your ability, or may that is

Depends on what paint you are using. I normally use automotive acrylic clear as it dries quickly and being automotive you can sand and compound/polish. I used 2K clear for the first time on my Mando, it levelled nicely but still some orange peel was left, but again it can be sanded and polished, you also need a completely clean area to spray as it takes a little while to dry and a mask is a definite, this stuff is pretty poisonous. Some paints are too soft like enamels, very hard to sand as they clog the paper quickly, also hard to buff/compound, being soft it tends to burn easily. Also take care using different makes of paint, some can react with others so always best to trial a small area first. 2K over automotive acrylic has no issues.

In honor of our newest CRL Also @MaskedVengeance -- found your twin

Name: Manvi ID: TK-16970 Username: Manvi Viztotia Garrison: Spanish Garrison Armor Maker:Armour Factory Props (AFP) Helmet Maker: Armour Factory Props Height/Weight: 1,80m. 64kgrs. Boot Maker: Valverde del camino Canvas Belt Supplier: AFP Neck Seal: AFP Hand Guard: AFP Holster Maker: AFP Profile Link; https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=35695&costumeID=124

I am just learning about all this whole world. Thanks to this forum I may have dodged a bullet as I ordered from Jedi Robe. One reason was I couldn't find a full costume and the other reason was they could accommodate someone 6'5. I am seeing some of the other vendors saying up to and around 6'2. Would I be too tall for costumes? Thank you! Dale

Lots of things to consider, not just looks but price, durability, comfort, ease of dressing, transportation etc etc Personally I never liked the look of the RO armor, (here's my GML OCD mind at work), we already have armor from just after that timeline yet a costume designer (or someone at LFL) decided to make a new version, with bits and pieces from other newer Star Wars costumes, so lineage wise it doesn't work for me. We know LFL do use some suppliers for some costumes and props so why not just purchase from one of them or the many sellers out there with correct lineage armor. Don't get me started on the rear view of the costumes either, pieces open, others cracked or pieces missing as there is no room for movement ie thighs hitting the belt, at least we know white gaffa tape is still canon Dressing I can get in my OTTK by myself, can't with my FOTK or a RO armor as I recently found out, I need help for those. For me at least the OTTK is the most comfortable and versatile, 2nd would be my FOTK, it is more restrictive, albeit once I'm kitted up I do stand well and for long periods which is great for some of my medical issues. As for looks I was hooked on the FOTK as soon as I had seen the first image (yet I know others hate it), albeit my first love was an OT ANH, always had since seeing it on the big screen back in 1977 Ease of transport and dressing has to be the OTTK once again, everything fits in a clamshell torso and into a suitcase and I can dress myself, FOTK is a little harder, I had to make material covers for all armor pieces because it was painted and needed protecting so it takes up a little more room and need help dressing. Price and again it's the OTTK, so many makers out there and simple black undersuit, no ribs. But here we are, now with other series before and after the original trilogy, timeline really takes a kick in the guts there, but having other versions of this era armor it does give some the ability to do multiple costumes from one set of armor, so that's an advantage. At the end of the day it all comes down to personal taste

I saw your thread and it's super impressive! Love the progress so far.

Thanks for the photo, that's the one I was thinking of. From what I can gather, that's a very real possibility. It seems like the construction process has evolved over time and there's not really any way to confirm. I know a lot of folks do the blue fabric for breathability if nothing else. As far as updated files go, I don't think much has changed. What I have looks almost identical to what's in your build thread.

Congrats trooper! *updated

Exactly this! Have fun assembling it and wearing it - you got a stormtrooper!

I will be honest. I was a little skeptical, at first, when I saw people using FB as their storefronts. Or just using Etsy. To me, it just didn't seem as legitimate as having a web presence with a traditional website. But clearly, I was wrong. And I was even more surprised when Dave from DDD called and spent 30+ mins on the phone telling me about everything. I ordered my Audio System w/ Voice Modulation yesterday from UKSWrath and was pleasantly surprised that it had already shipped out this morning. I am starting to see commonalities with the people involved in Star Wars costuming. Everyone is willing to help and support each other and everyone wants to see others succeed. Maybe that is me being naive as a new person to this. However, it's nice to see. From the folks on the forums, suppliers to my local GML. Good stuff and excited to get more involved.

That's everyone for the responses. I spoke to Dave at Dave's Dark Side Depot yesterday and he is going to help get me squared away! This forum rocks!

Troop 39 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Almost anything can be made good enough to be approved. Question is how much effort you need to put in and how you value your time and effort. It's a bit like trying to make a race car out of an old Volvo. It can be done, but by the time you're finished you've probably spent more time and money than it would cost to buy a good used Porsche to begin with.

That 2K spraymax is fantastic stuff, just follow the instructions to the T and as mentioned, clean areas and masks absolutely. You’ll be amazed at how many particles will stick to it while it cures otherwise. Even more so how much the toxic fumes will absolutely fill out a space even one that is open to clear air. I did in my driveway and it was intoxicating even with my mask on. Further emphasis on the mask, make sure it’s a solid mask system with filters, not just a KN-95 or whatever those basic cover your cough style masks are. If you are working with just filling seams and then using abs paste, you likely won’t need this. I just filled seams and then used Novus 1-2-3 to polish with great effect. Anything outside that though, yes I recommend 2K, having had a Jim’s kit without knowing about this method of clear coat I only used a rustoleum clear coat on top and that thing wore out so fast just from the armor rubbing together that I was regularly fixing my biceps and thighs and repainting because the clear coat was not strong enough. You’ll want a urethane 2k clear coat. As mentioned the 2K spraymax glamour gloss is great. If you have an hvlp sprayer setup though that’s even better, just requires more skill and knowledge, but it’s less prone to the higher amount of orange peel that comes from rattle cans. Also be sure to give at least 72 hours between color coat and clear coat (I’d even venture to say a week just to be sure) as any curing of the chemicals of the color coat underneath that is happening while the clear coat is placed on top and curing will cause the clear coat to have worse orange peel and appearance. Fully cure color coat, then do the clear coat. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Depends on what armor you have and what version, and what you are filling, if it's a DN first order kit it may not need painting, many getting a ABS to polish to a gloss finish as if it was never there. Anovos and Jim fibreglass kits both needed filling and painting, hence needing the clear coat to protect it.

So I wonder if any one spray painted the armor after maybe bondo or sanding I got a Lil of a mess on my first order kit.. doing the chest back and arms any help l

Troop 25 Make a Wish Foundation 40th Anniversary Party Toronto , Ontario July 18, 2023 We were invited to attend the Make a Wish 40th Anniversary Party. This event was the kick off for 160 people (kids and their families) who were in attendance and then the next morning were flying out on a chartered plane to Disney World for their wishes. It was truly an honour to be invited and participate in this event to give smiles and support to so many brave kids and their families.