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Thanks guys! Build has been put on hold for a couple days. I somehow lost the oval shaped magazine catch that fits into bottom of magazine housing. I've torn apart my workshop a couple times but still can't find it. I've contacted Blasterfactory to see if I can buy another one. Still waiting to hear back on that, but in the meantime I'm heading back into the basement to see if I can do a last ditch find of it. I'll start feeding wiring components into the blaster until then. Tino, I'll try to be going the realistic route. It's just a question of how to achieve it best using painting as you described.

Moin and hello, my name is Christian Langen and I am a new approved Stormtrooper ANH Stunt since May the 30th 2023 from Northern Germany, Harsefeld. My Squad is Coastal Hammer (NSQ) German Garrison. Ready for Duty! So excited to meet and greet you all :-) Imperial Greetings Christian

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the Expert Infantry ranks and the EI Honor Gallery

Getting started on an ANH stunt TK. This will be my sixth build since joining the 501st and my second OT trooper build (did a TD in 2017). Pics incoming. Armor: Walt's Trooper Factory Neckseal: Homemade (complete) Undersuit: Extreme Racing Gloves: Trooper Bay Belt: Homemade (complete) Holster: Homemade (complete) Balaclava: Homemade (complete) Boots: Imperial Boots (waiting on a run) Blaster: ?? (likely 850 Armorworks) Audio: IComm audio unit and Aker amp Fasteners and bracket set Going the hook route for the shin strapping since it worked well on the TD.

Wahoo!!! Thank you so much! Very proud of this. I appreciate the great details for getting to the next level. I've got a taste of OCD, so I can truly appreciate the granular look at these areas. I spent a good year on updating the kit for this entry, so I'll take a little breather and then start working on these updates to try for level 3. My absolute thanks to the team for the fantastic review. A special thanks to Karen Anderson Designs for the pics. They didn't know these details so I couldn't guide them too well with the kit on. Next photos for level 3, I'll have a fellow trooper help me and we can reference the notes here too. I've been in the 501st for over 20 years, so it's an true honor to take it up a notice. My best to all the TKs out there. I hope my pics help you all on your way for an ESB certification too!

Hi Justin, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Excellent armor Justin!!! There are a few things we would like to comment to you, but most of them are "minor" things. Starting with the helmet. -L3. Ideally placement of the ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the Trap above them. This issue is present in 99% of the applications.But as we always tell you, it will only be a requirement for centurion level in case the helmet looks very bad... We encourage you to do so, and your helmet will look spectacular. Reference images -This is a detail that we frequently suggest too. As seen in the reference image, you could trim the ends of the brow trim. Easy fix Reference images -We see that you have 2 bumps on one side and 3 on the other. Yes, it is true, there were disparities in at least one helmet in the film, but most had 3 on each side, as you can see in the reference images. You can add one more stripe. Reference images Reference images show us that the Han Snap is usually closer to the edge. However, we have seen that your return edge is very wide, so it looks like the Han is misplaced. We think you could trim the return edge a bit to be more screen-accurate. Reference images -It seems that your posterior plate is sticking out a bit and is not aligned with the kidney. Maybe you can use the famous "v tabs" to fix it. Reference images -Just a dressing issue here. When putting on your calves take care of the back closure alignment. Reference images -The angle of the sniper knee plate should be a little sharper (don't make the corner a sharp one).. If you decide to fix this, take into account the alignment indicated in the points required for centurion level, below. Reference image *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. -CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. It's very little, but we think you can reduce that gap a bit, and your armor will look much better. Small details make the difference. Reference images -L3.The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. In this photo, it looks like the white elastic is there. When you submit your Centurion application (wink,wink), you can include some more clarifying images. Reference images -L3. If silk or satin gloves are worn, the hand plates have the correct visible stitching with a 5 point/star pattern, equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, double stitched with 2 holes at each point and sewn to the glove at each one using black thread. Yours looks to be satin type gloves but the hand plates are affixed by an elastic strap and no stitched to them. You will have to remove the elastics and sew the hand plates to the gloves. Reference images -L3.The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. You can trim the ends of the ABS belt a little. Reference images -L3. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. You can prevent the drop boxes from moving by applying some E-6000 behind the strap. Reference image -L3. Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging  We suggest a slight haircut Reference images -L3 .Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable. You can glue a small square of ABS (inside), and fill the joint with ABS paste, sugru or something like that. Reference image -L3. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The ridges on the top do not align with the ridges on the top of the shin as required. This is a common issue. It doesn't need to be perfect, but it needs to be a lot closer for Centurion. Please, be extremely careful when removing the sniper knee plate, as it can easily break. Reference images That's all Justin. They may seem like a lot of things, but believe me, they are very simple fixes, which should not discourage you.... I look forward to seeing your Centurion application shortly.... Congratulations!!!

Cheers mate

DA props are well known in the UK, before he relocated to France. Have a look on facebook for his page "the shed of glittering delights" Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

12. 5/6/23 - Free comic boo day at Shoreline Library. Fun times handing out free comics, talking to some kids who were convinced we weren't actual troopers. Plus game time with some kids. 13. 5/20/23 - Star wars night at the Everett Aquasox Lots of standing around on this one while various people and/or mascots got quick photo ops 14. 6/24/23 - Washington State Summer con I was a rover advertising Garrison Titan's "Star Wars Experience" and had fun interacting with other cosplayers 15. 6/25/23 - Seattle Pride Parade One of the best troops of the year. Tons of fun and positive energy from the crowd for our two mile walk. Very fitting that this year's theme was "Galactic Love."

First part glued. First time using E6000, so will take GMRhodes13's advice and let it sit for a couple of days.

With any pieces that will be under some strain (example biceps) I let the glue cure for 48 to 72 hours just to make sure they are fully dried and hold before adding the other side coverstrips

#7 Philadelphia Force Awakens Concert Mann Music Center, Philadelphia, PA 2023/06/24

@Deployment Officer Team On it! Thanks!!

Hi Bryan. Considering the size of your armor's kidney plate, we think the best solution is what @TheSwede says well. Keep up the good work!

I was able to make some progress yesterday! I had a friend come over to help me with measuring the chest, back, and torso pieces. After trying the pieces and measuring, I went ahead and cut the remaining excess from those pieces. The photo shows the chest piece after the remaining excess has been removed, and you can also see the cut line on the front torso piece. As I anticipated, I am just a bit bigger than the front and back torso pieces allow, so they do not butt up with each other. As such, I cut off as little as I could from those pieces (just cutting off the curve edge from the manufacturing process). I am toying with the idea of creating a spacer to fill the gap to give the appearance of the white armor fully wrapping around my body on each side. I was not surprised by this as this is a crossplay, so I knew some modification may be needed to get the armor to fit my body. However, aside from the modification using the spacers, I am wanting to follow the guidelines for building stormtrooper armor as close as I can, due to how well-tested those guidelines are. I still need to do the sanding and finishing, but I think I will work on the strapping for these pieces before moving on to anything else. At least for the chest, back, and troso, I am going to go with snaps to attach the elastic. Not sure about the rest of the armor yet.

Over the years we have seen many people using silver paint of the inner bolt. Maybe that was what they had available. The more correct color would be a dark grey or gun metal grey. You can also add realistic weathering with a black washing, as this item is heavily oiled / lubed on real Sterlings.

AM is built for the bigger trooper so there is excess material on the sides you should be able to trim. Although an earlier version of AM (V1) @ukswrath has a great AM build that could be helpful

You may be able to bring the kidney and abdomen in a bit and trim excess of the ends of the kidney. I know I took off an inch each side, but that’s only if it fits as such. Otherwise it’s looking a good start. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did a test fit with the arms (minus the shoulder bells) and the legs with the boots on to see how much mobility I had. The arms feel good and there’s a good amount of mobility. The legs seem pretty stiff because the thighs and shins seem just a little too long. I think the thighs are up high enough, if not let me know and I can do another test fit. Thank you!

Another small update. I ground out the brass scope ring that holds the scope display. I also started the painting with one coat of primer grey, and then there will be 2 or 3 coats of semigloss black. I'm sure some might rub off when I carry out the electronics install, but I could easily touch it up or leave it as normal weathering. I'm debating whether to highlight the "original" stamped markings on the scope and the mag well in white. I don't believe the ANH blasters had the white lettering. Have to check the references...