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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/15/2023 in all areas
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4 points
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A quick general overview of what I will be dealing with. I've also updated the links in first post with my DLT build so you can see functions of the BlastFX system. I received the blaster fully assembled, which may have looked interesting going through customs. I disassembled everything last year in preparation for this build. Here are all of the parts, with the BlastFX system at bottom right. Some components, like the folding stock, grip assembly, etc, will be broken down further for ease of painting and wiring installation. I'm still deciding where all the wiring will go. There is only so much length of wire, so I have to be careful about where I put everything. I can use wire extensions like I did on my DLT build, but this adds unnecessary bulkiness to some wires which could hinder the build further. I've seen a couple builds where much of the electronic circuit boards were in the mag and mag well. This allowed the rear main tube body to remain relatively empty. You could then pull back the cocking handle and bolt as I guess something to do...? As I can't see this having a purpose in the "real world" of Star Wars, I may transfer some electronics to the main tube. As long as they remain hidden when viewed through the large cocking handle groove I'd be okay with that. I'll have detailed pics and diagrams later, but here are the blast FX components and possible installed locations (clockwise from bottom of wire harness): Main control circuit board. It's hard to see, but there are two little R/B wire coming out of the unit to the left. These may have been from the vibration unit I had to steal from this kit for my DLT. Can't remember now.... In mag well or main tube below SMG bolt. Speaker main tube at back Barrel lighting strip attached to inside bottom of main body tube so it reflects upward Muzzle Flash Device Black muzzle cap Laser Possibly shining out of a small hole drilled in front of magwell Mode selector button Attached inside the Hengstler counter and activated by the original counter "reset" button Trigger switch Inside grip behind trigger. Blaster Factory includes one and this is a match, but it is already wired into the BlastFX system Rotary fire selector (single shot, auto and stun) BlasterFactory includes a rotary selectro, but from my sources it is finicky and hard to wire correctly with the BlastFX system. I'll probably just remove it. Scope display (little black square that needs to be soldered to wires) Blast FX left this disconnected for easier routing of wires into the scope. VERY smart and thankyou! Back of scope Main display (little black rectangle). Same wiring considerations as the scope Inside Hengstler counter display area Grip vibration unit (little black circle). My DLT hand one and I remember the thin wires broke at the unit. I think I had to steal the one from this kit to service the DLT. I then ordered a few more on Amazon. I'll have to attach this vibration unit to the wires to see if that is what they are for...Somehwere in grip Main battery: 3.7V 2000mAH 7.4Wh I may have an issue with this rectangular battery. It doesn't fit the mag well in a nice way, and may not leave room around it for the other pieces. Magwell or main body. TBD Charging circuit board for battery. This is an after market piece I bought online: Powerboost1000 Charger. It includes a USB charging port which I will have to incorporate into the blaster somewhere. I'm using this so I don't always have to remove the battery for charging. I'm not sure if I want to cut a USB size hole into the body of the blaster, and I don't want to disassemble the blaster to get at this USB port, so I may put the circuit board somewhere easily accessible like behind the main tube rear cap, or in the mag well behind the magazine. Magwell or main body On / Off sliding switch for power source. Small black thingy to left of the charging circuit board. This has to be somewhere easily accesable. Possibly hidden at back of magwell, or in Hengstler counter Detailed pic of the displays, included scope display magnifier and red filter, as well as a vibration unit. Battery, charging circuit board and sliding on/off switch: I actually felt real bad about taking apart a real Hengstler counter to add electronics. I debated purchasing another blaster, keeping the counter intact to replicate a screen used one, then having another with electronics for trooping. Unfortunately I can't justify that cost. The little baggie on the left is all the tiny counter parts I won't be using. There's a surprising amount of tiny springs, gears, pins and bushing in this little device. There will be more detailed shots of this and other pieces as the build continues. The magazine. I paid extra to receive a real sterling magazine that was cut down just like the movie used ones. I forgot to include the magazine "roller follower" in this shot, and there are some screws and springs missing from this shot. You'll see them later. I probably can't use any of the internal mag bits because a few of the electronics will sit in the mag and mag well because of lack of internal space in the blaster. Main body, t-tracks, muzzle cap, fake barrel and front sight. The way that Blasterfactory designed this all to go together, while retaining the external features of the Sterling perfectly, is quite ingenious. You won't be able to see the barrel as the T-tracks block most of the holes. And now the first build issue.... This is the muzzle cap that screws into the front of the barrel unit, and pictured is the muzzle flash device. Technically, the flash device will have to fit somewhere inside the muzzle cap shining out the front, but there is no way to do this right now. I was thinking I cold lose the barrel, but it is used to attach the front sight, as well as the back of barrel might be used to stop the bolt from sliding forward or rattling around. I could cut a groove into the bottom of the muzzle device to allow the muzzle flash unit to slip into, but there is an issue with this (next pic) This is the backside of the muzzle device after it is detached from the barrel. You can just see that the muzzle flash device circuit board partially covers both screws holes. This prevents the screws from passing through and screwing into the barrel unit. I can't trim the circuit board down sufficiently What I could do, and would require the same surgery is: Cut a suitable groove / slot to slip the muzzle flash unit upwards into the muzzle device. Cut the screws down by about 1/2" When it come time for assembly, I just glue (E6000) and clamp the barrel to the back of the muzzle device Glue the remaining heads of both screws into their holes. This will allow the appearance that they are gripping into the barrel. The included round rotary and trigger switches. They will be replaced by the BlastFX versions. You can juts make out a hole above the black trigger switch that will allow wires to pass through. I'll have to makes sure that the BlastFX rotary switch functions line up with the Fire /Auto / Safe marks that are on the other side of the grip. That's it for now.2 points
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Keep in mind that we all want you to get that Centurion badge under your name, Erik! The items that have been commented on are based on updates to the CRLs that have evolved over the last 7 years since you submitted for EI. These additions/changes are based on research of official screen references and material and are suggested by our members. All updates are added to polls and must be voted on/passed by the membership before being implemented. The advice you have received so far is solid and not meant in any way to hinder you from attaining Level 3, but rather to help. Not all of those who commented are "reviewers" (D.O.s) but some (like Glen) have been here for many years and know what will be expected (I was a D.O. for 6 years before my recent promotion). As I mentioned in my last post the D.O.s are permitted a certain amount of leeway when it comes to approvals. While some items listed in a review may not be specifically mentioned in the CRLs, if an item is seen on the majority of a particular costume in the films or in official references it may be required for approval. They will never ask you to do/change something without having solid evidence or has not been required in past approvals. While EI is generally considered to be fairly to reach, being our top tier of approval Centurion is a whole different ballgame and therefore more attention to detail is needed. Some items are easy and fast, some are not. (For my first L3 approval (with AM armor) I had to replace the chest, back and kidney (ugh) among other things). Again, we are here to help with any issues. I truly hope you will take these suggestions as they were intended, which is to get you up to speed and get that badge under your name! You can do this!!2 points
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Hey @GunnerD, I'm really sorry if you took offense to what I wrote - not my intention at all so please forgive me! Everyone reads text differently, plus the fact that we're setting our beloved kits up to be "judged" isn't exactly easy so I totally understand! I don't know if it helps, but I just want you to know my intentions are purely to help out Just wanted share with you the things I recently had to do on my Centurion journey, even though I got a new kit from RS (it was up to CRL standrads, but Centurion is a little different ofc)! As said before, the Deployment Officers tell you what you have to fix so you can take everything I said to the dumpster if you want , that is kind of what I want you to do in a way! The 3 things I mentioned since you asked if there was anything else you might have to do - was just to try and prepare you for what comments you might receive, not what you'd have to fix! (I just remember how helpful I found @gmrhodes13's comments on my pre-approval, he's not a D.O. but still made good points) Again, based off of my own journey so I'm just trying to be helpful!2 points
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I find wrapping masking tape around the whole piece or across pieces that need pulling in helps the armor from expanding while the glue is drying. Make sure when you trim the two pieces that they are very straight and this reduces any pushing when drying.1 point
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Awesome! Thanks! I’ll make sure to size them with books and undersuit. I think I’ll probably go with magnets to help close the back parts.1 point
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Don't let it get you down. I'm stuck even for EIB right now with changes I cannot do myself. I know the feeling of the wind being taken out of your sails. Looks like the suggests here are totally doable though so you should have no problems. Bart1 point
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I'm 184cm tall, and 70kg, overall, a skinny guy, and i use padding in the arms, not the torso neither the legs. In my case i do not need to trim the armor. I hope my example helps in some way Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk1 point
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Personally I would remove and reapply, it does stand out a little. E6000 is pretty easy to remove so you shouldn't have any dramas Also note for any coverstrips under pressure leave to dry for a day or two longer, especially in cold weather.1 point
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Things can also get lost in translation, I don't believe anyone is trolling so please don't take offence. 2 things may have been quoted in your EIB submission but much has changed over 7 years with some more details being added and updated, if you looked through the EIB L2 requirements of the CRL you may notice some of them. There is no way my 10 year old EIB and Centurion would get approved as they are these days. At the end of the day it's the @Deployment Officer Team who will be reviewing your Centurion submission if you still wish to move forward, you could reach out to them directly to confirm any of the adjustments mentioned or post your centurion application and they will comment there.1 point
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lol good Q: I have three TKs left & AFAIR 6/7? lids, sadly they've been in storage a while now . I suppose I'd like to sell on one of the the RS kits and maybe get a another TM again? So...... possibly become a Stormtrooper in the future when I get settled and get everything back & then back onto the three TK display with Vader, like my original plan that I always wanted1 point
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It is understandable, the general induction bar is lower for Tie (Reserve). Our garrison has a large number of them as they are more "accessible" for new people with no prior knowledge on crafting armor and stuff. They can participate in visits and activities literally "right out of the box". many of them move up to full Tie Pilot gear gradually. Even many of our more senior Stromtrooper has his/her own Tie (Reserve) costume which is great when you have the fill the role of handler during an activity but also want to stay in character.1 point
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Looks like they have Frankensteined this helmet, it has both TFA and TLJ elements DN Cardinal - wide side mesh like TFA but TLJ teeth and smaller clips/recesses DN TFA - large side mesh - even larger than Anovos DN TLJ - angled mesh area towards the front and teeth TLJ Anovos angled mesh towards front and teeth and smaller clips/recesses TFA Anovos It's not even a combinations of both DN helmets, the mesh corner and nose plate positions and widths don't match the DN TFA or TLJ helmets, perhaps they remoulded or used old Anovos. The closest match on the side mesh would be the Cardinal with TFA Anovos, doesn't match the TFA from DN which is really weird. My thoughts, Cardinal was pre TLJ so really should be wearing TFA but that really comes down to our DL and the LMO's1 point
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Troop 24 Niagara Falls Comicon Day 3 Niagara Falls , Ontario June 11, 2023 This was the most amazing Comicon Day I ever had. Not as busy as day 2 but so many amazing experiences. While acting as a target for blast a trooper in the morning, our CO asked if I would be willing to be one of the escorts for Giancarlo Esposito after my shift was done. Well - that was a no brainer. We were taken to his room where he was giving his panel and entered as he finished. As we came in, he introduced us as the 501st and went on to tell the audience about the charity work we do. He concluded with “These people are my heroes”. He then came down and took some photos with the group and then shook all of our hands individually. When he came to me, he taped me on the chest piece and said “this here is the real deal’. We then escorted him from the room back through the show floor to his autograph table. He carried our Din Djarin’s dark sabre and called out long live the empire as we walked. I am over his right shoulder Escorting him out of the panel room. preparing for the escort through the convention floor. I am right behind him. After this, we returned to our booth where we were informed that Trish Stratus (WWE wrestler) saw this and wanted 10 of us to do an escort so she could record it and show her instagram biewers how she gets an escort. She also was very gracious and posed for a photo, shook all of our hands and donated an autographed photo for our next Comicon coming up in August. After this, we had planned a TK walk through the convention floor earlier in the day. We suited up with 5 of us and walked the floor. We visited a couple of comic book artists that had mentioned that they were fans of the 501st earlier in the day and made quite the stir as we marched through. At one point Billy Zane (Titanic) stopped us and asked to get a photo. Later on, a few of us went by the celebrity autograph area, I spotted Jerry Mathers (Leave it to Beaver) who I loved to watch daily as a child on TV. There was no one in line, so I approached to tell him how grateful I was for all of the happiness he brought me as a child. He gave me his biggest Beaver Cleaver smile and came out from behind his table to shake all of our hands and get a photo with us. All in all, this was an amazing day all I. Support of Ronald McDonald house. Tons of fun but a very long and tiring weekend. TK-96004 signing off1 point
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Troop 23 Niagara Falls Comicon Day 2 Niagara Falls , Ontario June 10, 2023 This Con got better and better every day. Day 2 highlights included taking part in a “Meet the 501st” panel. This was my first panel and our CO asked me if I wanted to attend in costume to answer any questions about the costume making process. This was such a great and interactive experience. Most of the day was spent doing Blast a Trooper and interacting with guests for photos, fist bumps and high fives. Walked the convention floor later in the day and got yo meet one of my heroes, Wendel Clark (former captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs). Finally, this is the end result of taking on 5 kids with Neef blasters at the same time.1 point
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Ultimately, there isn't anything sad for FISD about this news, we know our costumes aren't cheap. As Glen mentioned, we are by far and above, the most requested character at events and troops and predominantly our members have to build/assemble our costumes rather than have them made by someone else. Our costumes take time and plenty of care to not only construct, but also maintain to get the best life out of them, and we relish in polishing our armour before troops. There is a lot to be very very proud of when it comes to our catalogue of costumes, loads to be very happy about and not to forget we have no less than four new to legion costumes currently under construction along with their CRL preparation. Just look at the motivation this whole event has created for us, and with these new costumes on top, even more will become Stormtroopers. So turn that frown upside down and get cracking on your new TK today1 point
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I built mine and was approved in a week, it can be done, depending on how much time you have and your abilities as well as how much research you do. I had a 6 month wait for ATA armor and I did A LOT of research ready to build it, as well as A LOT of build from scratch blasters, these were the pre 3D printer days, everything was hands on. Yes the cost is a major factor as well but if it's something you really want to do many will find a way. Now excuse me I've only had one coffee so I may dribble a bit: It can come down to research, in my 10 years we have seen a BIG move to facebook, people post "I want this costume" and within minutes someone posts info or shares a link BUT I don't see much of a follow up with "how to build". When I joined you had to search for information, I mean really research, some found a local 501st group or found he FISD forum but even then you still had to research to find the information on the forum to purchase armor and to build it. The amount of people that do find their way here but still won't research amazes me, we have areas on the forums for each of our costumes, yes some can be hard to find depending on what particular section you are building but even when posting information, photos and links to a build thread some still post the same questions when the answers are already posted. We have a "search" function and a "gallery" area and our forum but little seem to use them. You only have to type in a few common words into the search box to be able to find information, you can also do this one google, type in key words and add "whitemarmor" to the search, you can also search in images, you'd be amazed what can be found. Don't get me wrong I am here to help and I'm not complaining it just seems to me with the rise of Facebook and the ease to find things on social media some aren't equipped to do research, many buy on a whim and never bother assembling the armor as it's just too hard. People purchase a costume for many reasons, some not understanding what is involved, some don't have tool experience, some get bored, some are too busy, some even when approved find being a member and wearing a costume is just not for them. When I started we'd have 10 or more Stormtroopers at a convention, these days it's lucky we have just one or two, some have gone on to other things but some complain the Stormtrooper is too uncomfortable, I find the opposite, it a great support as I have quite a few medical issues and the armor helps me stay upright and for longer. Seeing 10 or more Stormtroopers marching together is a wonderous sight and still gives me goosebumps, just a shame I no longer see that here and our numbers have dropped. I must admit I'm not better though, I love my Stormtrooper costumes unfortunately I'm just not wearing them enough, I built my Din Djarin just because it's time relevant and it's what the public wants to see and do request, I don't think many think of that reason when deciding on a costume, what the public wants to see. No matter how many screams I here of "Mando, Mando" or "Grogu, Grogu" I get more satisfaction wearing my TK and seeing younglings dressed up in Stormtrooper costumes wanting a photo with you or even saying "your my favourite" still brings a smile to my face, even if it's not seen Anyway Tie Reserves and Bridgecrew are a pretty cheap option to gain access to the legion so it's no wonder their numbers have increased, is it indicative of what the public want to see, NOPE, shinny and white is still the most requested costume1 point
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There are 2333 TIE Reserves right now. Without those, JRS would still have less than 3000 costumes. So, yeah, that might be a factor... who doesn't love a cheap overall that you can buy ready to wear and to get approved in? Now, if you want to boost the TK statistics a bit: you can easily turn your ANH Stunt TK into an ESB/ANH-H/HWT. Caleb's got a good link collection for the ANH Stunt to ESB conversion here. For the Hero, you need to change even less (a new helmet, belt, and holster[-screws]), and the HWT just needs a backpack, a pauldron and some (removable) weathering. So time to get those 4-in-1 costumes done1 point
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OMG! I'm back in town but going on vacation! updates coming after I get back!1 point
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James Reeves TK 22826 Centurion A4 Chemi Thank you! Apologies for the delay, James- Congrats!! https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/22826-centurion.png1 point
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