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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/26/2023 in all areas
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I feel like I can share some of these here now:4 points
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So I'm waiting on one thing before my photos. Dave sends a really nice pair of Nomex gloves that I'm sure I'll be using for trooping but, (I think maybe this is the first time I've said this)I've got high hopes I want Centurion! So I contacted Justjoseph to get a pair of rubber gloves and another set of latex hand guards. They should arrive Thursday! So to keep me occupied, cause my wife says I'm OCD and have to be doing something all the time, I painted the handles and latches! Man, they look cool! It's all my stuffs!4 points
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Awesome! This is the way! It seemed to fit pretty well with foam strips of the size you just mentioned. It also looks like I dont have to trim any more of the armor once the foam is inserted as it fits pretty well. Excited to get both the biceps ready to be glued with cover strips!3 points
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Update: Yesterday was Big Brown Box day! I'm waiting on a couple additional pieces to arrive (neck seal and boots) and then I'll get some pictures posted. I put it on and the suit fit pretty well, so I'm relieved and very happy with the way it looks. Even my wife was impressed and said that she's officially accepted that she's married to a Stromtrooper. The last item that I have left is to decide on where I get my E-11 blaster from and how detailed I want it. I'm researching all the links that are suggested on the site here...it's been a great resource! Troopacoola commissions some really nice E-11's, so I'm considering going with him. I was hoping to have a blaster before May 4th when I go to a local Star Wars Day gathering, but I'd rather make sure I get the right one. Overall, it was an exciting day yesterday and I'm looking forward to pulling together everything so I can work on a 501st approval!2 points
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Thank you very much! I am honored! I'll keep an eye on those bridges and work on the teeth!2 points
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Hi folks! I've had lots of people ask about various details regarding how I did my helmet interior. So, I thought it may be wise to just summarize it all so others may learn things or try to replicate some/all aspects of what I did. My goal was to have all my electronics systems embedded inside my helmet, with individually switchable systems, whilst all being very clean and hidden along with a blacked out look. No problem right? For reference, this is what the interior looks like. Note that inside there I have 3 battery banks, four fans, a powered condensed microphone, the iComm unit and an Aker amplifier, all attached to a switchbox: Ok so I quickly found out that it would take quite a wall of text to summarize how to do this build, so I decided to throw a video together to summarize it all instead! https://youtu.be/eYeUpAHOSHM The basic gist is this: 1) Black out your bucket as you desire, I used 1/4" thick neoprene to line it. 2) Create a junction box by leveraging your hovi bolts onto a custom backplate which your switch box also get screwed into. 3) Refine your project box so it has the right size and number of switches for your application (I have 3 subsystems, others may have more or less). 4) For every one of your systems make a custom harness where the electronics run through your switch to its power source, ensure that the switch is the only mechanism to turn it on (so if the electronics had their own switch keep it stuck in the on position and let the switch you use at the project box be the one that controls it). 5) Using high quality velcro, mount all your electronics up at the top, and/or your fans at the bottom. 6) Route all of your wires that need to run from your electronics down to the switchbox in a clean loop, and everything else tied down neatly at the top. Use tubing to wrap the wiring with the least amount of wire and tubing required. 7) Add velcro to the bottoms of your electronics at top and add black padding to hide it all and make a comfortable fit. 8) Use any extra helmet padding as necessary to ensure you have a solid and snug fit. 9) Optional step: You may want to do this at the start but have your eye lenses done up in a manner that will work well with the clean look of your interior (see my other howto to check out how I did mine). Here are some helpful detail shots that highlight some of what I was referring to within the video. One shows all the bare electronics before any lining or hiding was performed at the top. Another shows a detail of the swicthbox at the bottom to show how the hovi bolts and the project switch box mount into the backplate. Here are some links to the more unique or non common materials I used: Project box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBQNM Flip switches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT7D0G Neoprene lining: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DB10 Helmet padding: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A4TNQ8A 12V fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015S5XFJE 12V battery box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE7HBMS All right folks, enjoy and I hope this helps you with your own helmet builds. Post any questions or your own interiors!1 point
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HI all, I wanted to return to the forum formally, now that I have returned from my OS experience & I considered it good curtesy to drop in here and say "hi yawl". I will endeavor to read through the back posts, when I've time permitting although I have lurked on occasion over the years; so its not all fresh news. I anticipate posting up a sales thread or two (if that's still cool)? As I would like to add to my TK collection again and this incurs the selling off of some treasured items or even means making the offer of a short run of some TK related items, this I can do, now that I have returned to the the UK without the crippling costs of the NZ/au postal service.1 point
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I took today to attempt to close the right shin with velcro. I placed one piece the inside of the cover strip and another where the cover strip lands/lines on the shin. I THINK I did it right but had some minor concern regarding it possibly showing a bit raised due to the velcro. Also, forgive the Rebel hat on my partially complete helmet. My wife put it there today thinking she was funny.1 point
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Yeah I missed the mention in the mix of all the other comments. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Yes, the Trooper mentioned that is waiting for the end cap to arrive. Thanks1 point
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Nice job there Brad. Consider, when assembling the clips that the control panel, "The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap." A common issue we have seen is that the control panel faces up or is angled but not enough. Some references1 point
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Hi Tyler , and THANKS for your submission for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! That is an nice and well "trooped" set of armor there, sir, but unfortunately there are some issues you need to correct before we can get started and put that EIB badge under your name. Some of them are from Basic level and others are EIB requirements. Starting from your Helmet, Looking closely at your helmet's right ear, looks like some j=kind of repair was made in some moment cause the surface looks rough and some sanding and polishing would be needed, also you can see a small gap that will need to be applied some abs paste to seal it. Reference Images "CRL Basic: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area" Easy fix with some paint remover (non acetone) a toothpick or cotton swabs. Reference Images As you can see there are a couple of buttons that need a paint session to make them look the same size . One needs a paint remove and the other a little more blue color. As mentioned by another trooper, please check your TD end caps and general measures , the control panel should be rectangular all around and needs to be rotated a little to face the rear as the CRL states for Basic Level. You will need to change the screws for the correct type as well and paint them black color. "Basic: The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). End caps are approximately .78" (20mm)in width. L2: Clips shall be attached with slotted type, flat or dome top style screws, and be black (two per clip)." References Looking closely at your Canvas Belt it looks to have an inserted section. Since it needs to be a single piece, I should recommend to replace it . Reference Images Your Sniper Knee needs some more trimming to match the screen references and removing the button return edge will allow to get it close to the shin. Bellow you can see the screen references and some examples of ATA approved EIB Sniper Knee , so yours will match in a great manner. References EIB Approved ATA Armor Sniper Knee Finally I'll need you to please, add an additional photo of your AB/Kidney side rivets like the example bellow. Even though it looks like a lot of work ahead, we are confident that you can do it Trooper.1 point
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Thanks, Justin! Appreciated your insight on the tube stripes!1 point
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Great job, Marek! Welcome to Centurion!1 point
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Congratulations and welcome to the centurion ranks trooper1 point
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Hi Marek, and thank you for your submission for ANH Stunt Centurion! CRL and CENTURION Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of CENTURION. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. -We would just like to add, as a suggestion, that you can use a small file to remove those little "bits" of abs in the area of the teeth. Reference image -Also, keep an eye on the shoulder bridges. They can break easily. Reference images Nothing more to add Marek. Great job! Thank you very much for taking the time to "upgrade" your armor to Centurion level... Now you can "encourage your Garrison friends" who haven't achieved it yet!!!! Congratulations #524!!!1 point
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Turned out great. Just need to finish taking pictures for pre-approval. I left room for my TK number to go above the cog in a similar manner. I'll paint the handle and latches after work today if the rain holds off. Mod Podge FTW!1 point
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Looking forward to seeing some photos, a great tutorial on adding images via a free online image hosting service1 point
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Worked on getting the forearm polished up where I sanded off the trim lines. I had already sanded with 80 and 320 to get rid of the lines. Not a great picture, but here is where is was: Today I sanded with 400, 1000, and 2000, then I remembered I have Novus scratch remover, so I polished with some Novus 3, followed by 2. I’m really happy with how this turned out. This was practice for the rest of the seam removals.1 point