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It is a beautiful Sunday afternoon here in sunny southern California and what a better way to celebrate than by trying it all on for the first time. I'll be taking actual pre-approval photos next week when I have time to properly align everything and do it right. Until then, here's a quick preview of what you all have helped me with so far... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Belt adjusted! Let me know if there's anything else you need from me! Thank you! @Chemi

This week at work has been brutal. Not much progress, but here's what I have: Thermal detonator Glued the control pad and end caps on. I realize now, maybe I should have drilled the holes for the clips first. Now I will have little bits of plastic rolling around inside. Oh well. Calves I trimmed the fronts to 10mm per side for the 20mm cover strip, then glued in an inside cover strip on the front. I used clips and magnets and I kept the blue painters tape on the help keep the pieces in place. Strangely, the E6000 turned pink in the places under the tape. Maybe it will dissipate now that the tape was removed. Helmet I got the face glued into the helmet. The sides don't line up well, so I hoping the ears can cover it up. We shall see.

I'm a bit concerned that a few vocal individuals still seem to be really missing the point of this thread and the core argument being made. WE ARE ALL AWARE AND AGREE THAT THE MOVIE SUITS DO NOT HAVE SEAMS. No question there. No reference needed. The matter in question and the point that is trying to be made is: Disney and LFL approved the Parks suits, the LICENSED Denuo Novo suits, and the Resistance version to represent their character, the First Order Stormtrooper, WITH SEAMS PRESENT in the aforementioned areas for practical reasons. If Disney and LFL are okay with it, why aren't we at Basic? Is the hyperfocus on this detail at the Basic level worth the exclusion of new members and perceived elitism? This proposal is an acknowledged concession in accuracy in order to remove a potential blocker to membership and to help extend the service life of the ABS armor for more troops, and overall imo, isn't something that makes a significant difference to the appearance or impact of the suit. It is not a question of what is accurate or not, of new CRL creation, or even if the seams SHOULD be filled or not, it's about whether this requirement belongs at the Basic level. I'd like to see it go to a vote of the general Detachment. I acknowledge and agree with this as well, but I see this proposal as a possible effort to increase those numbers and show support for builders of FOTKs now that we DO have a consistent, quality, licensed supplier of what SHOULD be one of our CORE costumes. These kits have been out for over a year now, and ONE SINGLE PERSON has submitted for EIB on these forums, which is telling. Some people just want to troop and don't care about the seams. And the Star Wars-loving public doesn't either. Instead of turning people away from Basic membership, let's welcome them to these forums and encourage them to learn more about how to improve their accuracy while we make our push for 1500 EIBs. I can't see how we're going to hit that number any time in the next several years with the ever-increasing difficulty of DO review and revision of existing CRLs. Per the current administration, they "have never dumbed down a CRL to suit one manufacturer"... but I think this is a prime example where there is precedent, a clear argument, and some level of demand to make a logical exception to a standard of questionable value. I appreciate the debate and everyone's input. I feel like the case has been made, and this can always be revisited under future leadership.

I have quite a few updates to include at some point, but I have been focusing primarily on actually finishing my suit and less on documenting, especially as I can add to this thread with additional photos of mentees I'll be helping build once I've kind of got this all figured out (hopefully). But let's go on a tangent real quick to hopefully help clear some things up - as much as Denuo Novo got right on this suit, and the fact that is a massive improvement in quality and design over the original "Alpha" TFA suits that were briefly somewhat available(?) from Anovos... they still messed some stuff up pretty bad. On a few of these, I remember early on thinking that I was going crazy, but they turned out to be just known errors in manufacturing. Consider this all constructive feedback but unlikely to change, as it's not uncommon for even licensed makers to make concessions in order to make manufacturing easier or less expensive, or to appeal to a broader customer base. In addition, sometimes things are just lost (sometimes literally) in translation between the design (usually stateside) and manufacturing (usually in China), and other things are simply just missed entirely. Let's take a look at what DIDN'T go right on these suits (or at least the one delivered to me) and how we can potentially fix or improve them. I'll flesh this out more and add pictures or any others that I'm forgetting, but let's start with: - The forearms are shaped incorrectly at the wrist and should be larger and more square - The forearms are molded incorrectly at the elbow and are indicated in the instructions to be cut in a shape that is not accurate (not TFA/TLJ/or "Finn Mod", really) - The tall belt pouch is too short to accommodate the ABS panel - All gaskets are sewn inside out, without velcro attached to a potentially L1/2 usable shiny side - Forearm rails provided are TFA style, without a provision for a hex-headed bolt for TLJ - The ABS Standard line TLJ helmet features TFA-style clips (fiberglass Premier seems to be correct) - Several of the included templates in the instructions (like for the "kit-kats" and thigh holster) are just not remotely accurate for drilling holes - The included screws for the belt boxes and holster are too long and will protrude through and damage the part if installed all the way tight. Both should be replaced with shorter ones or a different solution. Though these are almost certainly intentional manufacturing concessions, let's acknowledge that: - All of the resin pieces are beautifully cast, but very HEAVY - I will be replacing several of them - The single-piece resin thermal detonator is more suited to TFA-style, than the 2 piece tube/carriage style for TLJ - Many of the clips need the bottom of the casting reshaped to lay correctly where they go - The included resin holster is not functional - There are visible seams at the sides of the barrel at at the top of the chest/yoke at the shoulder necessary to allow for vacuum forming I'll propose solutions for each at some point in each section of my build, then link them back here in the future, but hopefully at least making people aware will help!

We're not making Disney park suits, which have several other concessions to accuracy. For reasons of comfort, service life and presumably ease of manufacture they are quite different. We are making film accurate suits. This is not hyper focus, this is the 501st doing what the 501st has always done. Make the most accurate costumes we can at any given moment. That last bit is important, and the reason why initially it was allowed to wear ANH style boots, because there was no other option. Now there is an option, and the CRL no longer allows for the older style boot. As resources improve, technology improves we get better at making them more accurate and the standards rise along with that. The CRL says no visible seems. The old Anovos kits had a seem that need filling, these kits need a seem that need filling and iirc so did all the other ABS based kits. 378* "pre-production" "Anovos" kits where made and presumably a reasonably number of them where completed, and so had filled seams. Then add the kits for other vendors. Is the seam a huge ugly thing that stands out a mile? No. Will some GMLs approve it anyway, it wouldn't surprise me. But filling 4 seams is not the huge headache people are making out. Unless you don't wear proper PPE and work in a ventilated area. We have it good here: 4 seams to fill and some glue, there is even actual instructions for all of that bar the filling. And a decal sheet! Now consider other hard armour: a Shore trooper, clone, death trooper, scout. All of those are so much more work, and have all their own set of issues with stuff breaking. Fill the seams, this is the way. *according to who made them, but with out double checking their notes.

Hello Matthew, Nothing wrong with collecting helmets, helmets are a lot of fun to collect. However, in your original post, you stated: Do you also have a helmet from Authentic Props that you did not wear for these photos? You have the EFX and the one from Cyber Craft, (which I had never heard of until I looked them up after seeing your post). Just trying to sort out where you are at with your bucket situation. Per the CRL for the ANH Stormtrooper: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. Please be aware of this component and the additional helmet requirements if you want to eventually pursue EIB and Centurion approval. Your helmets look to be a solid single cast. Typically, TK helmets are constructed from several pieces from vaccuformed ABS molds (the face, cap, and ears). See this thread for an example of how they are constructed: Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any particular questions about a helmet that you intend to use for your approved costume. If you are just buying commercial helmets to collect that is your prerogative, but please be mindful of the CRL Requirements when looking for a helmet to get approved with the 501st.

Troop 10. Shaving head for charity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Edit: I apologize in advance for the large-size images. I would definitely recommend scaling down the page. If this is something that needs adjusting please let me know. Thank you!** Name: Marek Leavenworth TKID: TK-70202 Forum Name: Starkiller Garrison: Cloud City Garrison Link to EI Application: Armor Info: Armor Maker: Anovos (kit) Helmet Maker: Anovos Blaster Type: E-11 (QuestDesignCanada) Height: 6’-6'1" Weight: 155 lbs Boot Maker: Imperial Boots/Keep Trooping Canvas Belt: Anovos (added velcro) Gloves/Hand Plates Type: Anovos/Latex from Etsy (BaileyBuildsDesigns) Electronics: iComm, voice booster, Henry's Helmet Fans (x2) Neck Seal Type: OEM Holster Maker: Anovos Application Photos: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. I have made adjustments according to the EI application, and I welcome advice. Thank you for your time and assistance! Marek Leavenworth TK-20202

Hello there. My name is Zachary Dignan and I am working an ANH Stunt Stormtrooper. I have been in the Rebel Legion for 3-4 years and am now working my way over to a dark side build.

You should trim from either side so the cover strip is central. I have small arms and needed to add foam to the insides, you don't want to trim too small as you may look out of proportion with the rest of the armor on. Also use the "direct link" or right click copy paste when using Imgur so the images show in your thread. You can find a whole gallery of images for references of sizing and placement

Full checklist here

Nice work trooper, a few photos I know the DO's like to see: Sniper plate front, side and side Thigh ammo strip rivets inside and out Also side Ab/Kidney rivets Good luck with approval Awesome background by the way

I tried various photos, the one I posted here was the best. If I lay it flat on the ground, you'll just see my arms with my phone. What I posted here is the best I can do. Other than that I could just photograph it somewhere else but then you see the rest of my appartment. And if I have to redo the cod piece now, I have to redo all the others that I have taken as well and thats a little frustrating. Thats the downside if you want to take a picture of a mirror. I would appreciate if we can move along with the fact that reflections are inevitable. I can just minimize them.. How to sell mirrors only Regarding the editing I agree but maybe it speeds up things. I'd love to troop officially in Pyre for May 4th so I do what I can to support as best as I can EDIT: Updated CRL draft here with pictures

Awesome when you try it all on for the first time. Looking forward to seeing more pics soon

Awesome work!!

Looking good!

Awesome James. The first of many.

You will never forget your first, no doubt one of many to come, congrats on your first troop

Hi Marek! We are working on your request, the armor looks great! Just one last favor so we can see the Centurion badge under your name. So as not to create confusion in future applications, we need you to update/correct two photos in this request. The photos are Nº1 and Nº23. About No.1, the belt is too low, which is something we emphasize a lot in the applications. It probably moved during the photo shoot. Regarding No. 23, the plastic belt does not seem to keep the 45° angle with respect to the canvas belt. In the other pictures it looks like it, but to avoid confusion, we prefer that you replace the photo with a clearer one. Thank you for your patience and understanding, Marek.

Troop 1, also listed in Fire Team Sousa Troop Log (2023/APR) Event: Books for Love 2023 (Week 1) Location: Taikoo Place (QuarryBay, Hong Kong Island) Date: 23 / APR / 2023 First time as a bad guy doing good. Felt great.

VFW Honor Flight #42 Honor Flights are special events where the VFW flies a group of veterans to our nation's capital. This was my introduction to this event and it was a very meaningful one I will be doing again. (Though I may not do it the same day as another troop. Lots of standing around 2x in a day is painful, but at least I was warm.)

Troop 16 Oshawa Comicon, Oshawa , Ontario April 22, 2023 A small Comicon to raise money in support of the Oshawa Community Centre. We started outside and grabbed a photo in front of the tank outside of the Armory. Greeted people passing on the street and sidewalk. Rainy weather forced us inside after a bit where we mingled and interacted with guests. The other TK whom I have trooped with several times, always has a dog squeegee in his glove that he squeeks when the kids high five or fist bump him. He brought a bag full this troop and passed them out to everyone else. It really makes the shy kids come out of their shell when they fist bump you and they get the big squeak. Last but not least, I achieved a perfect level 4 sit in a fairly low chair. This should solidify my level 4 achievement now.

CSU Spring Science Extravaganza A very cold day (~30F) for a troop. Thanks to the kind staff for getting pizzas for the staff, volunteers & troop. A small group braving the cold to bring some smiles to a lot of little & big kids. Enjoying a little bubble blowing. Looking for some trouble making rebels to apprehend while I'm out for a relaxing stroll.

CRL Wording: Helmet The helmet is mirror reflective in a gold color. Lenses are smoky brown or gray in color. They may be bubble in shape or flat and must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. A single golden aerator/mic tip is on the lower left side of the wearer's chin. The frown is solid black and covered in a black hexagonal mesh pattern that extends to the tears. Each tear (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) is solid black. Seven recessed tube stripes are present on each side of the helmet. Two clip greeblies are present over the traps on the side. Two clip greeblies are present on the top of the helmet, parallel to the trap greeblies. There is a slight groove that circles the helmet, above the brow. There is a slight groove that circles the helmet along the bottom and over the chin. Directly below the traps toward the base of the helmet is a small trapezoidal stripe. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Neck seal has a bib on front and back. Neck seal has 11 ribs. Chest Armor Chest is mirror reflective in a golden color. The chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. The “cut-out” in the center-top of the chest plate is recessed and black on the side and upward facing edges. A small clasp greeblie is present on each side of the chest, just inside a small indented area the size of the greeblie. There is a groove running vertical on each lateral side of the chest that angles toward the center. Six recessed black ovals are on the wearer's right side, left of the greeblie. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Channel on sides of chest show clear separation. Back/Yoke Yoke is mirror reflective in a golden color. The back plate contains a "O II" design. The back/yoke is one seamless piece. The yoke portion extends over the wearer's shoulders and curves under the armpits. Thermal Detonator The thermal detonator mounting plate is painted slate grey (flat), and sits under the back plate and rests above the belt. The control panel is black. The right-hand recessed end cape is black. The left-hand end cap extends from the detonator assembly and is black all around the cylinder as well as the end surface. A silver stripe is present around the end of the cylinder that extends slightly onto the circular surface. There should be no visible seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Small section of black around the base of the left extended end cap shall be present. Shoulder Gaskets Gaskets are made of rubber or a shiny black material with ridges. The shoulder gaskets cover all exposed areas under the shoulder bell, between the bicep and chest, and between bicep and back. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gaskets are made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable. Shoulder Bells One on each shoulder. Bells are mirror reflective in a golden color. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical. They may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Shoulders have small round extension at the top under the bell itself that butts up against the yoke. Biceps Biceps are painted slate grey ( flat ). Biceps have only one seam on the side that faces forward. A clip greeblie is present low and across the seam. Two black ovals are present on the outward facing side of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ridges in bicep must be present (small detailed section). Elbow gaskets Gaskets are made of rubber or a shiny black material with ridges. The elbow gaskets must cover all exposed areas between the bicep and forearm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gaskets are made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable. Forearms Forearms are mirror reflective in a golden color. Forearms have a ridged rail, similar to a picatinny, embedded on the inside of the forearm. Forearms have a box on the bottom the wrist end, roughly covering 1/3rd of the embedded rail. Each forearm has two 'clasp greeblies' on the outward facing surface, near the wrist. Detail box includes black rectangle on small edge perpendicular and closest to wrist. Gloves/Handplates Are black with black palm, thumb and forefinger. Extend underneath the forearm. Black area is made from leather or leather-like material. Handplates are rigid square boxes and the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. Handplates are painted slate grey ( flat ) The recessed oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand. A black decal or paint may be used to emulate the recessed oval detail. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Glove palm must have black stitching. Abdomen Section Abdomen section is painted slate grey ( flat ). The abdomen section must wrap around the wearer's body. The abdomen has 7 boxes attached that matches the order and placement shown. The large box has a small black recessed square to on the lower left of the wearer. The second box to the right of the wearer has a small black recessed rectangle near the top. Codpiece The codpiece is mirror reflective in a golden color The codpiece sits below the abdomen and under the belt. Posterior armor Posterior armor is mirror in a golden color. The posterior armor sits below the abdomen and under the belt. The top portion of the part is hidden by the belt and used to connect the plate to the abdomen armor. Belt The belt is ribbed and made from a rubber or a rubber like material. The width of the belt is approximately 2" (50mm). Five white rectangular boxes and one pouch sit on the belt. Boxes are painted slate grey ( flat ). There are 2 horizontal boxes on the front, on each side of the center. They are painted white on the outside half and black on the inside half. There are 2 vertical boxes on the right of the wearer. There is a large vertical black pouch with a white cover behind the left side of the wearer. A small black cloth pouch is worn on the left side and hides the buckle or remaining belt material. Undersuit An undergarment must be worn such that the space between the thighs and the belt shows a black material. The black material may be shiny or matte. The reference photo shows the type used on screen but is not required for basic approval. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The shorts area of the undersuit should be shiny Thighs Thighs are mirror reflective in a golden color. There are seams on the inside and outside of each thigh. A clip greeblie is present high and across the outside seams of each thigh. The wearer's right thigh includes a base for a weapon holster. Holster does not need to be functional. Knee Gaskets Gaskets are made of rubber or a shiny black material with ridges. The knee gaskets must cover all exposed areas between the thigh and shin. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gaskets shall be made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable. Knee Plates The knee plates are mirror reflective in a golden color. The knee plates mirror each other and are placed evenly between the thigh and the shin. Convex edge of knee plate faces downward. Shins Shins are mirror reflective in a golden color. There are seams on the inside and outside of the shins, with the opening on the inside. A clip greeblie is present high and across the outside seams of each shin. Both shins include two vertical thin boxes that are seamless. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are pills at the bottom of the shins just above the spats. Spats Mirror reflective in a golden color. Spats wrap around the lower ankle. The spats are enclosed on the outside of the ankle with a greeblie that overlaps the open side. There is a visible seam on the ankle. Boots The boots are above-ankle height, and made of white leather or leather-like material. There is a seam down both sides of the front that swoops out to the side of the foot. There is a vertical zipper on the inside that spans the height of the boot. There is a black flat sole with no heel. No buckles or laces. Armor plate on top of the boot Armor plate is Mirror reflective in a golden color. Shoulder Pauldron A slate grey ornament made of rigid plastic or plastic-like material, worn over the right shoulder.

Troop #165 Martinsville - Green Top. Elementary School Spring Fling - 4/14 edited

#20 Event: Star Wars In Concert (The Empire Strikes Back) Date: 2023-04-14 Place: Scandinavium, Göteborg

#19 Event: Swedish Garrison Valentine's Day Social Media Troop Date: 2023-02-14 Place:

First off, I came up with a solution to install this side on my way home from work! Then, it occurred to me that maybe I left out an important nugget to those following this thread. Seems like it should be simple, BUT this side needs to be inserted from INSIDE the magazine shell! It doesn't use screws like the other side, and I didn't want it to pull out easy by installing from the outside. it has little wings on the corner, to help it not pull through from behind. Anyway, it's IN! I used the magnet on one end, stuck to a long hex driver, to reach down inside the shell and push it into place. (pictured here, without wires) Now I had both sides ready to test conductivity once I put them together! so I broke out the meter! And, it didn't work.... If you notice, in the photo above, the 2 center little contact pads moved back inside when I soldered the wires on! Something a small hammer and the same hex driver didn't solve. It works now! (insert squealing sound of the meter showing 0 resistance!) time to move on with grip paint and final assembly