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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/31/2023 in all areas
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That's my my mistake, I was second guessing their placement. I'll try them on again when I get home.2 points
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Worked on the ammo belt thigh this morning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2 points
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Hooray, thank you! And I’m super relieved to see that I had almost all of the recommended Centurion updates in my plans already. Nothing too scary. I have my first TK troop next weekend, I will see which of these I can get done in time for that vs right after! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2 points
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Hi Sherry, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Starting at the top, you could trim the last tab of the back sections of the shoulder bridge in the middle. Lowering the forearms would give you some more confort when carry on your blaster. Reference Images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. This is an easy fix, just a little strapping adjustment and if you trim the return edge of the Bells , this would help to get then closer to the chest armor. Reference Images Reference Images We have a more challenging fix here but we are confident you can do it Trooper. Your shoulder bridges are riding a little higher (floating) over your shoulder bells as pointed bellow. A suggested solution is to bend down the shoulder section of the back plate to allow rising it up a little more. Plase take a read to this ShaSha's Building Thread that shows this fix. Reference Images CRL L3: Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Yours are effectively latex-like as the required ones for L3. But you will need to add a little more glue to affix them better. Reference Images Moving down, you may want to trim the small ab buttons plate a little more. Reference images CRL L3 : Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. While your Ab/Kidney left side connection looks good, the right side will need some strapping adjustment to reduce de gap. Easy fix.! Reference Images And that's all Sherry, Congratulations for joining the EIB ranks and we'll be waiting for your next step. Centurion when ready.2 points
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Those are shoulder straps that would be used if you were doing a Sandtrooper build (no ribs) You probably received a strange sniper knee as well... also for Sandies. Hint: Be sure that the top of the ABS sits in the right place. Ideally it should cover part of the bottom button(s) on the ab plates.2 points
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Painted the side extensions black and put industrial strength velcro on the chest, back, and extensions. Had a little time after work to get it done. Looking forward to getting everything that's assembled on this weekend.1 point
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True statement. I’ve also found it depends on the style of armor. Seems that each armor has areas more likely to crack than others. my FOTK constantly cracked around the shoulders of the yoke. But then again that’s just due to the design. Any areas of stress I’d recommend reinforcing prior to much wear and tear to help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Hey, everyone! I know I've been quiet the last few weeks. I was in the process of applying inner and outer cover strips to the forearm pieces. They've finally been assembled after a few days letting glue settle. I've included some pictures of the finished forearm pieces as well as the forearm pieces in relation to the biceps: I placed an order for Line 24 snaps to strap the biceps and forearms together (I thought those would be easier to find locally than the ended up being), so in the meantime I'll start the preliminary research for trimming and sizing the shin and thigh pieces. As always, if anyone has any feedback I always appreciate it!1 point
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Yep, got some plastic polish on the way so tomorrow evening I can sand and polish it and start fresh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Easy enough fix. Just put a piece of abs on the back with e6000 and I’ll fill the hole then make a new one for the new snap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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You can always remove the snap, glue a piece of scrap ABS behind, fill hole with ABS paste, sand, polish and redrill. You could be ok for base approval (depending on your GML) but higher levels it will be noted.1 point
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Your Garrison GML is the one responsible for your basic 501st level approval. Is this a pre built kit? if so try it on and get some photos taken and post in our Pre approval section so we can have a look and inform you of any adjustments you may need to make before presenting to your GML. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/191-tk-pre-approvals/1 point
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I agree that you should hold up on trimming that just yet. That being said I wouldn’t worry too much about your approval due to your mobility. I’ve a few times made some concessions to physical needs of trooper submissions. Once all suited up then we can return and review if any trimming is needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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IMO, I wouldn't recommend you to trim it yet. once you have the complete suit up, you will see if there are additional details to fix.1 point
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Finally I got some time for working on the legs. I will post more pictures in the next days. For now, I have a question about the sniper plate: It looks, like the sniper plate is too wide to fit. I don't know, if this position is correct: The pencil lines on the second picture shows the border of the shin armor on the inside. What do you think?1 point
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So is it approvable...? I'd love input from the @Deployment Officer Team, but at Basic, I'd say yes - just as the previous Anovos OT offering was, and that the mic tips would need to be replaced for EIB at a minimum, then additional small notes as below for Centurion. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet ✔ Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. ✔ Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. ✔ Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. ✔ The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. ✔ Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. ✔ Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. ✔ Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. ✔ Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. ✔ Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. ✔ Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. ✔ Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. ✔ Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ✔? Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. ✔ Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. ✔ Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. ✔ Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. ✔ Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. ❌ Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): ✔ Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). ❌ Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them ✔ Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. ✔ Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). ✔? Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. ✔ The vocoder must be integrated into the helmet, and not a separate piece. Other Notes ❌ Vocoder would likely need repaint to better define the arches on each "tube". ❌ Frown would likely need repaint to extend paint to last tooth before the end "V", but no longer leaves the teeth into the gums like previous Anovos offerings. ❌ Mic tips would need the interior and lip painted white, though the mesh has been corrected from previous Anovos offerings. ❌ The third, bottom ear screw is not visible and is covered by the neck trim on both sides. It is unknown at this time if it is also a slotted, countersunk screw, but assumed as the trim lays flush. The trim is super glued in place and I was not able to peel it back to check. ❌ The ear screws do not follow the rear angle of the trap above them (but I think this is a dumb rule anyways, personally). ❌ Though not noted in the CRL, the brow trim may need to be replaced with one without extrusion marks.1 point
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Updated for you Nora, congratulations on your 25 troops.1 point
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25 troops done!, requesting my new badge, pleaaaaase!1 point