TK-7435 requesting EIB status ANH Stunt (TM)[APPROVED] 2nd

[SandFlea[TK]]

Armor= TM

Helmet= TM

Blaster= Hyperfirm

optional: Hand painted all paint on bucket including tube stripes

Height =5'8"

Weight = 190

Boots =TK Boots

Canvas belt =TKittell

Hand Plates =Sonnenschein

Electronics=Icomm

Neck Seal =Made it

Holster =Made it

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heading for centurion level with this build. Let me know if I need anything else. Thanks and my Wife totally let me take a pic with messed up hair even after I asked her if it was messed up! GRRRRRRR

[NastyNoah[TK]]

The hand painting on the lid looks great, your drop boxes may be a tad too low, and the thigh ammo belt is too high, but I am no expert.

Edited May 15, 2012 by NastyNoah

[SandFlea[TK]]

The thigh ammo belt is just odd in the pic. That's as low as I can go on the thigh ammo. The belt set up is the same as my last EIB submission which passed so not sure how that would be off Either way it is only velcro on them so I could move them up easily enough. I do it that way so i can pull them to make a HWT set up. Thanks on the hand painting. Took forever.

[Berbs42[TK]]

Good looking suit, but I think you need to fix the mug in the first two pics. Something's a bit off there. Certainly not screen-accurate.

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Bwa-hahahah!

Good looking build, Darren.

[Berbs42[TK]]

Also, just out of curiosity, which version of TM Armor is this?

 

And all kidding aside, looks great!! We need more EIB Troopers here in CTX!!!

 

- Berban

[Turrican]

That's not a complete TM suit,would more say the chest,shoulder,shindetail,belt and helmet are TM, the Leg-and armparts looks like FX/AM.

Are the buttons blue or black?

Is there a extra canvas layer on the side of the holster?

Would say the belt looks to low.

The rest looks OK so far.

Edited May 15, 2012 by Turrican

[Locitus[Admin]]

Hi Darren,

 

You already have ANH EIB. You can't get the same badge twice.

 

Cheers,

 

Mathias

[SandFlea[TK]]

LOL. You guys are great. I only need nod so I can post this armor up for centurion, which I don't have. As far as TM. It is a full TM and I have a 1 mm kit for TD. They are the same. This kit is a 1.5 mm so a tad thicker. I did compare the kits to ensure they were the same other than just thicker. Buttons are blue and grey but can't seem to get the color to come out in the pics. Not a photographer by any means.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Before you sumbit for centurion though I have some suggestions. Your knee ammo belt is mounted way to high. It should be almost the reverse of how you've put it, with the rivet in the top corner rather than the bottom corner. It also looks like you've put vader dave buttoms on top of the TM ab buttom plates. Remove those and paint the button plates instead. And the 4 buttom plate left of the bigger ab button plate is trimmed too wide. Made it as narrow as the underlying raiser. Pull the drop boxes up a bit towards the belt. As little gap as possible.

 

You helmet paint job is nice, and I applaude you for your efforts, but the vocoder could use some reworking, and the tube stripes should be closer to the face, not as much to the side on the cheek tubes.

[Rich330[TK]]

A few things I think my be a problem for Centurion and in general where there is much room for improvement ....

 

 

1. The drop boxes hang too low beneath the plastic belt.

 

2. The entire belt assembly is also very low.

 

3. Your flexible handguards are on the wrong hands. I made the same mistake once. There are a couple of troopers in the film with them the same way round so technically it's accurate. You probably did what I did and copied the same on-screen trooper.

 

 

4. Your back plate should not overlap your kidney armour

 

5. There is a large and inaccurate gap between your biceps and forearms. They do not seem to be connected (see also this thread: http://www.whitearmo...l=&fromsearch=1)

 

 

 

6. The elastic connecting the chest and back is inaccurate and not functional. Connect the back to the kidney and the chest to the abdomen in the correct places and there is no need for this extra connection (this will also cure your overlap problem).

 

 

7. The tube stripes have been painted extraordinarily low. They really should be much higher on the "cheek" part of the helmet.

 

 

8. I can't agree with comments which say that the hand-painted details look good. The stripes inside the traps look great. The black outlines on the other hand look excessively messy.

There is no official level of messiness, I know, but to my eyes this detail looks excessively sloppy. I personally would repaint the entire helmet if possible.

 

 

 

9. That's a very strange thermal detonator tube. Definitely not the piece of pipe included in a TM kit and not correct. You need simple round plumbing/guttering pipe (68mm)

 

 

 

 

 

 

10. The ammo pack (on the knee) is not fully trimmed and is connected in an incorrect position. Check out references of original armour, detach, re-trim and re-attach the ammo pack.

 

 

Original armour:

 

 

 

11. The sniper plate seems to be from another kit (that bluish hue makes reminds me of the AP plastic). Not necessarily a problem but it doesn't look like it's from the TM kit.

 

 

12. The front of the groin conection should have a split rivet. Not quite sure what you've fitted there but it's not a plain-headed rivet or brad type fastener which you will need.

 

 

13. The plate with single row of buttons is trimmed much too large.

 

 

Original armour for comparison:

 

 

Sorry to be harsh but there are quite a number fo issues. Some I would consider a problem for entry level so you are going to struggle for Centurion. Everything can be recitified though, and without too much trouble. I'm just trying to point out how a few simple adjustments can transform what at the moment looks like a generally sloppy build into a very good and more accurate build. Please take this in the spirit it is meant.

[Locitus[Admin]]

That you Rich for perfecly illustrating what I was trying to say, and even some more.

[SandFlea[TK]]

No offense taken. Many times you can't see if your building it. The pics help out a bunch. As far as the repaint for the bucket; is there a specific distance for the tube stripes to be down from the top? I was going for a less difined look on the bucket. If your saying it's too messy then I can try to make the lines cleaner. Last time I air brushed and you all said it was too clean???? Confused on the right mix then. Guess I went to far with the hand paint. oops. The knee plate is definitely not TM. I can always contact Paul and get another one. The trim on the buttons was a fix I just plain forgot to do. If I mixed up the hand guards that was just a plain no brainier there.

[SandFlea[TK]]

Ok I posted the pic of my am thermal Det. Will find the TM one and post it. Late post last night and was tired. That's why it looks different.

[Rich330[TK]]

As far as the repaint for the bucket; is there a specific distance for the tube stripes to be down from the top?

 

No specification. Just look at a whole bunch of screen-used helmets and get a feel for roughly where they were all placed. It's generally quite a bit further up.

 

Here's probably the most useful link on this forum (in case you haven't got the reference material yet) ...

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10786

 

And some cherry-picked shots ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Huh?

 

[Locitus[Admin]]

No offense taken. Many times you can't see if your building it. The pics help out a bunch. As far as the repaint for the bucket; is there a specific distance for the tube stripes to be down from the top? I was going for a less difined look on the bucket. If your saying it's too messy then I can try to make the lines cleaner. Last time I air brushed and you all said it was too clean???? Confused on the right mix then. Guess I went to far with the hand paint. oops. The knee plate is definitely not TM. I can always contact Paul and get another one. The trim on the buttons was a fix I just plain forgot to do. If I mixed up the hand guards that was just a plain no brainier there.

Great attitude! Sadly some people take personal offene when we try to point them in the right direction.

 

The tube stripes should sit at about a standard pencil width from the "face". So if you hold a pencil along the inner side of the cheek, your stripes should begin where the width of the pencil stops. So I think it's about 8-9 mm.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Yes. I'm inventing new standard units. Like 1 standard pencil width. I'll submit a request to the ISO committé to get it accepted as an international standard.

 

Rich is right on this one too though, the stripes were not placed at a specific distance from the face, but all of then were higher up than yours.

[Rich330[TK]]

Yes. I'm inventing new standard units. Like 1 standard pencil width.

 

It's a good rough guide though. Never thought of it like that.

[Locitus[Admin]]

It's a good rough guide though. Never thought of it like that.

I believe it was Mike, TD-4510, who came up with it. He uses it in his TE2 paint guides.

[SandFlea[TK]]

That makes sense for the width. One last ? What about the weathering. How much if any should I do if any for centurion? Is there a tuturial tread for adding weathering to TK builds? I know this is an EIB tread but if I'm heading there any ways I might as well do the fixes on this build for that level. Whole reason I built it was for that as I am already EIB.

[Rich330[TK]]

That makes sense for the width. One last ? What about the weathering. How much if any should I do if any for centurion? Is there a tuturial tread for adding weathering to TK builds? I know this is an EIB tread but if I'm heading there any ways I might as well do the fixes on this build for that level. Whole reason I built it was for that as I am already EIB.

 

Not sure on Centurion requirements off-hand. I think the only thing specified is "

Boots shall be lightly scuffed."

(Mathias?)

I never bother with any deliberate weathering anymore. A couple of troops and it's generally nicely scuffed and dirty. Nice and natural looking.

Just play it by ear. Have a look at your favourite stormtroopers in the screen caps and work out whether you feel you need to add some weathering for the look you're after.

[matt black]

Like Rich said, if you let the weathering happen naturaly then odds are you will end up with it in the same places as the troopers in the movie. They were not intended to be weathered, it was just from them being worn.

Although I do seem to remember Mathias doing a nifty job of adding weathering to his build for that used look.

[SandFlea[TK]]

Does anyone know where I can find the split rivet for the cod piece?

[matt black]

There are these http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19041 or I have seen people use brass paper fasteners or the back of a Chicago screw.

[Locitus[Admin]]

The specification today requires only weathering of the boots. I would personally rather see a split so either you have a weathered armour (battle style) and boots, or neither weathered (parade style).

[matt black]

Oooo I like that idea. Reminds me of when you got the toy Star Wars ships as a kid and you could choose to put on the clean decals or the battle damaged ones