Sonnenschein Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 (edited) Hi everybody, I'm trying to make some real accurate templates; Every one I found varied from the other. Can someone with a real Sterling tell me the lenght of this part? ---------- Thanks! PS: I may need one or two more in a few days... Edited July 31, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john danter Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Which part Karin 18.3" springs to mind for the whole thing...? Ask Billy Haggis. He's measured a few lately Bare in mind that some tutorials assume your end cal maybe hollow. Therefore if it isn't, your E11 will be longer than it should be John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamJ[501st] Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 163mm for the slot for the charging handle on both of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john danter Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Ignore me Just seen your red line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamJ[501st] Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 (edited) If your red line isn't the length of the charging handle slot but ejector port to endcap it is 183mm at the furthest point and 171mm at the shortest but remember it curls around at the edges so there are no sharp angles on it. Hope that helps. EDIT: P.S. I'm currently stripping and cleaning one of my Sterlings so I'll leave it out for a few days. Edited May 31, 2011 by SamJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted May 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Thank you guys! Im trying to modify the plans for the doopydoo kit, so we dont have to worry abot the end cap anymore. John, even your input was needed and is highly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted May 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Oh, yes, I meant the slot of the cocking thingie. Dont know much gun vocabulary :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordietrooper Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 heres a pdf for a Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, Mark 4 might be handy for some info ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted May 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 SamJ, please be so kind and tell me the lenght from the end of the cocking lever slot to the beginning of the end cap. Thank you for your time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamJ[501st] Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 It's 8.75mm (give or take). Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 (edited) I have already done this. check my signature for the FREE plans. The BBC plan has your dimension too long! the red line on the BBC plan is about 1/2" too long. you have to take into account the tip for the doopy do barrel end, and you also have to account for the folding stock mounting location, which lines up with the folding stock front lock. my plans have corrected the error, along with locating the parts like the mag well, and trigger group. The folding stock front lock lines up with the 1/2" hole with the notch. in the closed position. The barrel is 38MM and the rear cap lug area Outer diameter is 42mm so, where the cap goes on, the diameter is larger. ---------- Edited July 31, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 ACtually, I am using YOUR plans, Vern! Thats why I am asking in the first place! You did a nice job, but it is still off. - Needs to be adjusted for 40 mm - cocking handle slot is too shot - several mm need to be added on the end - several mm removed at the front - some other minor details the new all resin kit it nice, but weighs more, is more prone to crack, some details still are inaccurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lichtbringer Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 ACtually, I am using YOUR plans, Vern! Thats why I am asking in the first place! You did a nice job, but it is still off. - Needs to be adjusted for 40 mm - cocking handle slot is too shot - several mm need to be added on the end - several mm removed at the front - some other minor details the new all resin kit it nice, but weighs more, is more prone to crack, some details still are inaccurate Well, isn´t all "accuracy" gone as soon as you increase the dia by 5% (from 38 to 40)? That is no glued-on detail, we´re talking here about one of the two main measurements. I know that 50cm of DN40 wastepipe is deadcheap here, but it still is "off". And any glued-on parts are prone to cracking and breaking of, too - dependend on the used resin even more than a kit from a good resin (not the brittle stuff). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Sure it will be off, but good enough for a first glance and way better than a hasbro. And where talking about just 2mm ;)Lenght is more important IMHO. e.g fitting of the holster.And as long as it sits on the shelf or is with the manniqin, I don't care about breaking.The only "accurate" way would be owning a real one - which is out of the question for me.I don't want any weapen anywhere near my house! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Thanks for the manual, Rob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TANGO'D FETT Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 And where talking about just 2mm ;)Lenght is more important IMHO The wife keeps saying length is important too ! Nice plans Vern , the additions you made are great and take all the guess work and extra measuring away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 it would be nice to have plans for the real sterling tube. erv even had to reduce the plan for the vents and modify the breech to make a "real sterling" set of plans from the bbc plans. the plans I created were for the doopy Do's kit version 1. with the new doopy out, anyone can glue together and paint a blaster in less than a week. making the internals, and bolting it all together is much harder with the version 2 kit, since the bolt is moulded in. it looks like the doopy kit ver 2 also has a really thick inner diameter with the addition of a pvc pipe. the depth of the vent holes are really deep, and detract a little from the overall look. any work on this karin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinSivertsen[501st] Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 I might be following this thread seeing as I'm at the point in a doopydoos full resin build, that I only have to add the internals (barrel, rear/inner bolt and spring) and the scope rail. The new full resin doopydoos kit is really accurate out of the box, and only needs a few tweaks to look really legit, hollowing out the front sight and some other small modifications which I will hopefully cover in my build-thread/tutorial. And thinking about sturdiness, I think the kit, assembled with care and E6000 will be really solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 it's always best to add pins or nut/bolt combinations for the handle and magazine well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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